The Shapeoko Forum

That looks rally nice but it seems like some of the traces are contacting other pins towards the top. Have you tried etching yet with the sharpie as your resist?

Success.jpg BoardBack.jpg Well it's not entirely stock, I use a princess auto brand (power fist) 'dremel' that runs at 1.2A where as the stock 'dremel' that comes in the kit runs 1A, the PF brand had a better body for the stock clamps. However as you can see the board works well enough that the AVR...

I got mine as a pre-order bonus, along with a badge a t-shirt and a few end mills.

I like using scite to edit/write gcode. It's a (free) plain text editor for editing code files (html, php, c, python, xml, etc ...) So its a one program approach, no need to alter extensions or remove text encoding from non-plain text editors. Very light on computer resources and can be made to colo...

http://day.arduino.cc

The heart of my (and many other) Shapeoko

For what it's worth I've also run into the character length issue. I've been working around this by working in inches whenever I can. Makercam seems to be more efficient at making short g-code for imperial. I originally thought it was a fault of mine for making my svg in imperial and doing CAM in me...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVx02s1f ... e&index=34

Here's a good video that explains the basics of PWM. Its targeted more at using PWM in an AVR microcontroller but still covers a lot of the basics and explains things quite well. Hopefully that helps =]

I still use 0.8c and have been hesitant to upgrade to 0.9 until it is out in a more stable release. What I've been doing to work around this issue is: 1)Open the gcode file in scite (or any other decent plain text editor) 2)If you have your safety height set for say 0.1" there will be a lot of lines...

Second point, I know Mach3 can do probing, if you are probing a piece of wood or other non conductive surface you need a special probing attachment, basically a precision microswitch that mounts in your spindle. Just put aluminum foil over the piece, work it on so it covers nice and flat Attach an ...

regressedEE wrote:For those with access to a 3-D printer, this little guide is worth its weight in gold: M5 Tapping Guide for MakerSlide.

Having never tapped anything before I'd have to agree. The tap guide and liberal amounts of oil are your best friends.