The Shapeoko Forum

I still have one of the long INVENTABLES stickers (about 230mm wide by 30mm tall) that came with the kit. If you want it, PM me your address and I can drop it in the mail.

Here's the limit switch circuit I'm using. One end of the limit switches goes to 12V (24V is also ok). The other ends go through current limiting resistors (a 1.0 kOhm resistor might work a little better) to the anodes. The cathodes are connected to ground. grbl already initializes the D9, D10 and D...

Another option is Sorbothane. You can get 4 half-spheres 3/4 inch in diameter on ebay for less than $10. They should fit nicely on the bottom of the 20mm extrusions.

cvoinescu wrote:Give me the gold, and let me keep tapping with my drill.

I hear they're giving it away in some village in Russia ... of course, there's a little work involved!

For those with access to a 3-D printer, this little guide is worth its weight in gold: M5 Tapping Guide for MakerSlide.

Not to mention that socket head screws are much easier to hand tighten. I'm upgrading from a v1 to a v2 mechanical kit and keeping the socket head screws for the parts I am more likely to need to take apart and put back together but going with the button heads for stuff like attaching wheels and idl...

Could we modify this part: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:74301 to add a spacer pad between the two 'arms'?

@michaeluna: A logical first question would be whether there will be an upgrade package/kit for Shapeoko 1 owners, or at least whether individual upgrade parts will be available.

Not sure if this will help, but I used this article as the basis for my SSR remote switch: Tom Benedict Builds a Relay Box for His Taig CNC Mill.

Roy, what multiplier should we use for Vref when setting current limits? Or asked another way, what is the value of the current sense resistor? Is it the same as for the SureStepr (Current Limit = Vref x 2.5)?