The Shapeoko Forum

Very nice, I like the speed! So with those gecko drivers, do you not use garbl? What does your workflow consist of.

Yes, crank them down tight, there will be no way you can crush them or anything. As far as the bumps on the v-wheels. You can try and sand them down or what have you, but you may end up with not so round v-wheels. you could always just buy some new ones

Thanks, potatotron. In RepRap world, there is a pasta cream/chocolate extruder (using a syringe). Why not placing the solder paste by dots, the same way? This is where dual gantry could be helpful! :D Or you could just mount the solder paste extruder and the vacuum tip on a rotating head controlled...

Digitalmagic wrote:Very cool.
Later on, how do you manage to have the SMD components stick on PCB while releasing pressure?

Also, where can we find this air solenoid? BOM syndrome !
Thanks.

The solder paste will keep them stuck to the board, at least that's what I'm assuming.

potatotron wrote:...so I'm going to have to bite the bullet and figure out a reliable feed sequence.

You might want to take a look at this if you haven't seen it already.

http://buildyourcnc.com/PickandPlaceMac ... dFrog.aspx

Thank You, are the leads solid core or stranded wire?

Hi, I have a quick question, can someone measure the length of their 400 step/rev sparkfun nema 17 stepper motors. TIA Michael

That's very neat indeed. This may be a dumb question, but I'll ask anyway. Is Perl Script your commands to your motors, like for machining we use g-code? I'm also curious as to why you used a larger power supply, is this so you can power your vacuum?

Hi, I was assembling my machine today, when I noticed there is no step for routing the belts. This may be trivial to some, but I think it is worth mentioning how to do it on the wiki. So, can someone add another assembly step the wiki. I would do it, but I don't have my motors and my machine yet, so...

That's exactly what I was getting at Edward, for the most part. I'm going to recess the plate down into one of the corners of the spoiler board. This way, the top of the plate will be flush to the top of the spoiler board. So there will be no need for computing distances or anything.