Another thing to consider adding the next iteration is LEDs to show switch position. That way you can read the switch status across the room.
Perhaps none = off, blue = auto, read = on. I do this with the test equipment we design at work.
Search found 102 matches
- Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:02 am
- Forum: Software - CAD, CAM, Workflow Help
- Topic: Octoprint for CNC / Grbl
- Replies: 9
- Views: 6417
This or something like this is on my to do list. I'm not a software/system admin type. I tread water with python so something like this seems like a big time sync if it didn't work the first time. But, I am headed in that direction. I've been looking at the raspberry pie AlaMode but haven't committe...
- Tue Jun 25, 2013 9:47 am
- Forum: Build Logs
- Topic: ShapeOko #457 - from Canada *UPDATED*
- Replies: 13
- Views: 3276
My solution has been to buy longer screws and cut them with a rotary tool + cut off wheel. Then bevel the cut end with a grinder.Now, I need to collect some additional M5 screws in various 5mm increments so I don't have as much screw poking out everywhere, and more metal spacers.
- Sun Jun 23, 2013 10:47 pm
- Forum: Discussion
- Topic: Control board that requires no programing, no soldering
- Replies: 30
- Views: 5125
Can I submerge my drivers in a container with mineral oil to dissipate heat naturally without fans? This way I don't have to worry about many elements. I have seen this done but what people don't realize is that you need a pump or a bubbler to move the oil around. Mineral Oil doesn’t conduct heat t...
- Sun Jun 23, 2013 4:47 pm
- Forum: Other - (etchers, drag knifes, lasers)
- Topic: Vinyl Cutting Blade
- Replies: 37
- Views: 22961
It seems to me that this would not be too hard to make. Even 3d printed and use common razor blades. All you really need to know is the offset and the software.
I'm not familiar with Teacup but some firmwares require the extruder temperature to be in a certain range before it starts printing. Perhaps it could be fooled with a switch and some resistors or overridden with a gcode command.
- Thu Jun 20, 2013 12:15 pm
- Forum: Design Ideas
- Topic: Stationary y-Axis motors
- Replies: 4
- Views: 1311
BJBSquared has done this, now I don't feel so clever. I'm sure you are still clever. :D The biggest advantage I think is that routing the wires for the Y motors was easy. Direct to the shield. Weight difference = 2* (motor +motorPlate -carriagePlate) Cost was more: An extra idler on each side and A...
- Wed Jun 19, 2013 4:49 pm
- Forum: Design Ideas
- Topic: #1016, Conversion 1M x1M for Hobby Panels
- Replies: 27
- Views: 7358
I'm not grasping exactly how you have your y-axis belt setup. Could you provide more pictures? (BTW awesome setup!) This photo shows what I call the motor buttress. It mounts the motor and Idler pulley and also gives a mounting point for the Y rail. Originally, the pulley was mounted with a whole b...
- Tue Jun 18, 2013 10:01 am
- Forum: 3D Printing
- Topic: kit for qubd extruder that works
- Replies: 8
- Views: 2967
Bart's mod is a derivative of yet another mod (but Bart's is simpler). These mods fix the QU-BD for ABS, but, as far as I can tell from the reviews, not always for PLA. PLA is trickier because it has very different flow properties (less viscous) and a sharp transition temperature (unlike ABS, which...