Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

discussion of design changes / improvements / suggestions
SlickShoez
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:08 pm

Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by SlickShoez » Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:23 pm

LouisV wrote:
As for joining the makerslides and extrusion together you can do it in two ways. One way is to drill through one makerslide and the extrusion while only putting in pre or post extrusion nuts on the second makerslide (on the side that will be against the extrusion). You can use 45mm button head cap screws to join all three.

I hope I was of some help, if you have any more questions please let me know.
LouisV,

This thread has helped me so much so far. I'm building a large format shapeoko and have had a lot of problems with X axis flex. I'm in the process of reinforcing the way you describe above. However I had a quick question as to how you fastened the 2 makerslides to the extrusion. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but did you fasten them exclusively by drilling clearance holes through the uppermost groove of the slides, or did you use the bottom grooves as well?

Also, great looking machine. Do you have any videos of it in action? I'd love to see them.

-steve

LouisV
Posts: 316
Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2013 3:41 am

Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by LouisV » Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:26 am

SlickShoez wrote:
LouisV,

This thread has helped me so much so far. I'm building a large format shapeoko and have had a lot of problems with X axis flex. I'm in the process of reinforcing the way you describe above. However I had a quick question as to how you fastened the 2 makerslides to the extrusion. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but did you fasten them exclusively by drilling clearance holes through the uppermost groove of the slides, or did you use the bottom grooves as well?

Also, great looking machine. Do you have any videos of it in action? I'd love to see them.

-steve
Hey Steve,

I'm glad it has helped. :)

On to your question. I fastened them on both the top and bottom, though I did the bottom on the other side of the x-axis so you can't see it. I originally wanted to have all of the button head cap screws to be on the back side of the x-axis to give the front side a clean look, but the top screws were interfering with the bottom screw of the x-axis stepper motor so that's why the top screws are in the front and you don't see any bottom screws. Ten 45 mm screws are the minimum I'd recommend for fastening the makerslides and extrusion together but 16-20 would be better if you have access to more.

Since we're on the topic of the x-axis I actually plan on rebuilding mine this summer to accommodate a 13 pound 2.2kw spindle and beefier stepper motors in the 380-415 oz range. This will of course require custom motor mount plates among other changes. Samc99us and I will actually be collaborating on a possible Shapeoko 2 upgrade kit designed for more heavy duty applications for users who want or need significantly more rigidity and strength to accommodate high performance spindles and stepper motors. My personal upgrades to my current machine will probably be heavily based on this upgrade kit, if not identical. That's all I have to say for now, I'm not sure if Samc99us wants to officially be talking about it right now, but I'm sure when he does we'll be making updates about it from time to time.

And yeah sure I'll see if I can make and post a video of my machine sometime, maybe tomorrow.

All the best,
Louis

LouisV
Posts: 316
Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2013 3:41 am

Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by LouisV » Wed Apr 23, 2014 5:59 pm

Because some people have asked here's a short one minute video of my machine starting up and briefly cutting acrylic. I may make more videos later with the dust shoe off.


Kvirre
Posts: 14
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:23 am

Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by Kvirre » Sat Jun 28, 2014 6:08 pm

Long time before I wrote something here.
I finally got around to making my machine.

Here we go ...
Attachments
4.png
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LouisV
Posts: 316
Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2013 3:41 am

Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by LouisV » Sat Jun 28, 2014 8:01 pm

Hey Kvirre. Looks really nice!! :) I wish I could download the attachment for a better look though.

Kvirre
Posts: 14
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:23 am

Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by Kvirre » Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:55 am

LouisV wrote:Hey Kvirre. Looks really nice!! :) I wish I could download the attachment for a better look though.
I have done some testing and I am pleased with the results so far (not tried aluminium).

The weakest point as for now is the x-beam (1,5 m) give some flex.
I plan to insert a 20mm steel rod in to the alu-profile to make more rigid, as it should fit nicely according to the spec.

Thanks for inspiring me to do a similar construction Louis, it's been very helpful to have your documentation and support here.

More pictures will come (full sized and closeups), stay tuned.
=)

Cheers

jbrewton
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon May 19, 2014 12:49 pm

Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by jbrewton » Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:55 pm

LouisV wrote:Because some people have asked here's a short one minute video of my machine starting up and briefly cutting acrylic. I may make more videos later with the dust shoe off.

What gauge wiring are you using. The stock SO2 uses 18 gauge and I was wandering if the extra distance required you use heaver gauge.
Shapeoko 2 Full Kit
Upgrades:
Makita RT0701C

LouisV
Posts: 316
Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2013 3:41 am

Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by LouisV » Tue Jul 01, 2014 5:56 pm

jbrewton wrote:
LouisV wrote:Because some people have asked here's a short one minute video of my machine starting up and briefly cutting acrylic. I may make more videos later with the dust shoe off.

What gauge wiring are you using. The stock SO2 uses 18 gauge and I was wandering if the extra distance required you use heaver gauge.
Do you mean what gauge wiring I use to connect the stepper motors to the CNC control box? I use 20 gauge and it works beautifully. 18 gauge is way overkill for the stock Shapeoko 2. Depending on the applications and voltage used a single 18 gauge wire can safely handle between 6-12 amps. Like I said way overkill for small and medium sized CNC applications.

cvoinescu
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Location: Camberley, UK
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Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by cvoinescu » Tue Jul 01, 2014 6:27 pm

It's not as much a question of how much current it can handle, but of voltage drop (which is a function of current and wire resistance). The motors have a very low impedance, so even a small drop is significant. It won't affect operation too much, but a lot of the energy will be lost, so the driver will have to work harder (and get hotter).

The current carrying capacity of a wire (in a traditional application) is limited by temperature rise: it must not become hotter than what the insulation is rated for. In this application, that would be a huge loss (significantly more energy than the motor uses), so those numbers are meaningless. While 20 AWG will work for short runs, small motors, or lower currents than the maximum, 18 AWG is not overkill.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

LouisV
Posts: 316
Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2013 3:41 am

Re: Working on a custom Shapeoko 2

Post by LouisV » Tue Jul 01, 2014 9:08 pm

cvoinescu wrote:It's not as much a question of how much current it can handle, but of voltage drop (which is a function of current and wire resistance). The motors have a very low impedance, so even a small drop is significant. It won't affect operation too much, but a lot of the energy will be lost, so the driver will have to work harder (and get hotter).

The current carrying capacity of a wire (in a traditional application) is limited by temperature rise: it must not become hotter than what the insulation is rated for. In this application, that would be a huge loss (significantly more energy than the motor uses), so those numbers are meaningless. While 20 AWG will work for short runs, small motors, or lower currents than the maximum, 18 AWG is not overkill.
I agree that the type of motors and driver you're using plays a role. In my scenario I run 20 gauge on my machine and it runs 6-8 hours a day in Florida humidity and heat without problems (granted I do have my machine connected to a power conditioner). I can even run stepper motors that have a rating of 380oz on 20 gauge without problems. I understand that the Shapeoko 2 is meant to be tinkered with and expanded upon so in that sense 18 gauge isn't overkill if you plan to upgrade and reuse the wire, but as far as the stock machine is concerned I'm willing to bet that you could run that on 22 gauge, maybe even 26 gauge wire ( with a power conditioner to regulate voltage drops and spikes) without problems if there were no plans to upgrade it at all.

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