SO3 with Hall Effect Limit Switches

discussion of design changes / improvements / suggestions
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swhillier
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:47 pm

SO3 with Hall Effect Limit Switches

Post by swhillier » Fri Aug 07, 2015 2:08 am

Okay, I know that the new Carbide Motion controller doesn't need hall effect sensors but I didn't know that when i ordered the sensors back in January. Anyway, I finally got the sensors wired up together with some brackets I made on my SO3. Now that I have homing working and WCS set up I wish I had done it sooner. Since regular micro switches seem to work well with the SO3 I suggest going that route since using hall effect sensors is a bit more effort. But at least you get blinking LEDs.

I made all the brackets out of UHMW and then tapped any holes so I could bolt them directly to the SO3. Here's a couple of pictures of the sensor brackets and the electronics cover.
x-y-z.jpg
X and Z electronics and Z sensor brackets
x-y-z.jpg (106.31 KiB) Viewed 2768 times
xandy.jpg
X and Y magnet brackets
xandy.jpg (66.93 KiB) Viewed 2768 times
I also made a fixture to hold things square with the front-left corner being aligned with X0Y0 for WCS G55.
g55-bracket.jpg
Fixture at G55
g55-bracket.jpg (140.43 KiB) Viewed 2768 times
Here's a quick video showing it homing:


heathenx
Posts: 114
Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:59 am

Re: SO3 with Hall Effect Limit Switches

Post by heathenx » Fri Aug 07, 2015 2:17 pm

Well done!

By the way, has any posted a wiring diagram for limit switch hookup on the S03 yet?
Shapeoko 3, #405 / Dewalt 611 w/Super PIDv2, limit switches

swhillier
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:47 pm

Re: SO3 with Hall Effect Limit Switches

Post by swhillier » Fri Aug 07, 2015 5:08 pm

Thanks.

Wiring is fairly simple. You just need to set the switches for each axis endpoint up in parallel so that when either switch is triggered it shorts the appropriate limit pin and ground. The hardest part is finding the right molex connectors for the pins on the Carbide Motion board. If you get the wrong ones then you can't fit six 2-pin connectors on the board (I don't know the correct ones but I did buy the wrong ones). In the end I actually went with using a single-row 12 pin female board connector soldered to a small PCB so I could do my wiring which also included a +5V requirement for the hall effect sensors.

@twforeman is selling SO3 limit kits (http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6203) and he has an installation document that covers things fairly well http://tinyurl.com/s3limits.

heathenx
Posts: 114
Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:59 am

Re: SO3 with Hall Effect Limit Switches

Post by heathenx » Fri Aug 07, 2015 9:29 pm

Ok, seems simple enough. I have limit switches and the molex connectors already. Just need to design the mounts.
Shapeoko 3, #405 / Dewalt 611 w/Super PIDv2, limit switches

CastIrony
Posts: 650
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:21 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Re: SO3 with Hall Effect Limit Switches

Post by CastIrony » Fri Aug 07, 2015 11:18 pm

swhillier wrote:Thanks.

Wiring is fairly simple. You just need to set the switches for each axis endpoint up in parallel so that when either switch is triggered it shorts the appropriate limit pin and ground. The hardest part is finding the right molex connectors for the pins on the Carbide Motion board. If you get the wrong ones then you can't fit six 2-pin connectors on the board (I don't know the correct ones but I did buy the wrong ones).
I'm actually convinced you bought the right ones, and the spacing of the pins on the board isn't to Molex KK spec.
Shapeoko 3 #192 - Complete! Needs limit switches.

swhillier
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:47 pm

Re: SO3 with Hall Effect Limit Switches

Post by swhillier » Sat Aug 08, 2015 2:41 am

I think there are narrower Molex connectors than the KK series. I think I got K100 connectors and they were too wide. I got three of them on and the fourth wouldn't fit. I did spend some time on the Digikey site looking for an alternative and I think I found narrower connectors but they were out of stock at the time so I gave up. The only issue with using the single-row 12-pin female socket connector is that you have to be careful removing it so you don't bend the pins. But otherwise its cheaper and easier to work with than trying to crimp a bunch of Molex connectors when you don't have the $50 Molex crimper.

In any case, I finished the last piece of my limit switch project. Carved out the Y-Axis electronics cover from a 3/4 inch thick piece of UHMW. Now I think the next thing I need to work on is a dust shoe.

Winter in summer on my SO3:
winter-in-summer.jpg
Winter in summer but this snow won't melt.
winter-in-summer.jpg (247.6 KiB) Viewed 2655 times
Having the limit sensors makes tool changes a snap. I just put the blank in my fixture, home the router, enter G55, go to X0Y0, set my Z0, load and execute my first cut with a 1/4" bit, bring the router to the front, change to a 1/8" bit, home the router, G55, go to X0Y0, set my Z0 for the new bit then execute the second cut. I've also switched over to using ChiliPeppr. Way easier than using Carbide Motion and everything you need to know is in front of you on the screen.

cbl600r
Posts: 15
Joined: Sun Aug 23, 2015 12:53 am

Re: SO3 with Hall Effect Limit Switches

Post by cbl600r » Thu Aug 27, 2015 2:24 pm

Don't be scared to make a video on how you made your waste board and squaring table! I and trying to wrap my head around building something just like you have there. Just got my SO3 built yesterday and would like to get a good mounting board done first. And in the video go over how you home and do bit changes! :D Really like your mods. I will be stealing your mounting board idea

swhillier
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:47 pm

Re: SO3 with Hall Effect Limit Switches

Post by swhillier » Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:59 pm

cbl600r wrote:Don't be scared to make a video on how you made your waste board and squaring table! I and trying to wrap my head around building something just like you have there. Just got my SO3 built yesterday and would like to get a good mounting board done first. And in the video go over how you home and do bit changes! :D Really like your mods. I will be stealing your mounting board idea
Thanks. There are a lot of waste board pictures and examples on the forum and I think some have used the term sacrificial board for the piece of MDF I have mounted on top of the waste board. The main secret to keeping the fixture aligned is the 1/4" UHMW pins that I have going through the fixture into the sacrificial board. They keep everything aligned. The bolts just hold it in place. I also cut the fixture in place after I set up my G55 work coordinates so I know that its aligned. Of course I'll have to go through the process again when I remove the sacrificial board.

If I get a chance I'll put a work flow video together.

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