Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B)

Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:04 pm

Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B)

Post by Nutz95 » Sat Aug 24, 2013 9:08 pm

THis topic is similar to this one: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1108
But i wanted to make a new one to provide and get specific feedbacks concerning this spindle model.

I recently bought the famous chinese spindle
(See the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfnCDI5I2yc )
And i have to say that i'm impressed by the speed, the reduced noise and the smoothness of this spindle!
When it runs unholded, you can notice that there are not much vibrations, the spindle is not moving by itself as a dremel like spindle would do!
Also when you hold it in your hands you feel very few vibrations, everything seems to run smoothly.

Before making the video i had to figure out some settings for the inverter, as the default settings will likely to burn your spindle due to in proper default working frequency parameter.
The default voltage seems to be properly set however the default frequency is set to 50Hz. Look carefully on your spindle to see it's operating frequency, mine was 400Hz.
When i made it run on 50Hz it started to smoke and became quickly HOT!
After settings the proper 400Hz parameters everything seemed to work fine without any overheating.

For those who want to buy the same spindle + inverter i bought it for less than 275€/366$ shipping included on ebay
( http://www.ebay.fr/itm/CNC-FOUR-BEARING ... 1032652684? )
Surprisingly, after less than a week the spindle was at home!, packaging was good.

For those who wander my inverter settings, Here they are:
I used the factory settings and on top of that i set the following parameters:
Pb173:255 (cannot change this one)

Hidden parameter taken from internet (seems to fix any Low Voltage error message)
Pb200:65535 (default was 0)
Pb209:100 (default was 200)

To make it run at 9993rpm i set pb003 to 347Hz (348Hz makes it run a 10027rpm)

Warning: When i first got my inverter the default Pb004 and Pb005 setings were set to 50Hz.
As my spindle is made to work at 400Hz, i made it run at 50Hz.
After a few seconds i started to smell a burning smeel and see some smoke out of the spindle, and it was becoming very hot!!
I stopped IMMEDIATELYy the inverter by pressing the STOP button.
After a few minutes (more than 15 minutes) of spindle cooling down i managed to understand that the settings Pb004 and Pb005 had to be set to 400Hz (as written on the spindle!)
I tried again with the new 400Hz settings hoping that my spindle would still be running. And indeed it is still running!
I wouldn't expect that from a Chinese spindle. (i might yet have some wire isolation fried out but it seems still OK to run)
So watch out for factory settings as they might not match your spindle hardware.

I took some settings from Page 28 of the manual given with the inverter.
For my Inverter model (HY01D523B)
the following settings has to be setup:

On menu Pb177, i have the value Lv (low voltage) but it only seems to indicate the current working mode.
On Pb178 i have "dL" wich seems to indicate "Output short circuit".
I checked all my connections, wires, etc... and everything was OK.
Pushing the run button makes my spindle run as shown on the video after all those settings and experiments.

I'm very pleased from it as the noise is very low compared to a 120W dremel like spindle.
Also the amount of vibration of the spindle is very small and far lower than the dremels.
When turned on everything seems stable and to be running smoothly.
I have'nt tried it yet on my shapeOko cnc machine but will post some videos once everything is set up.
Also i designed some 3D printing holding parts for the shapeOko cnc machine. They are available on tinkercad:
https://tinkercad.com/things/4cMp9uwquw ... ing-clamps
https://tinkercad.com/things/fYgggzVmof ... olding-top
https://tinkercad.com/things/cgyFnXdInG ... mps-bottom

Or you can buy aluminum holders on Ebay for ER11 spindles as mentioned on thread http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1108

Also, some people are using non shielded cables for the connection between the inverter and the spindle and some are not.
So what is the difference?
Most likely both will be working.
However the non shielded cable will provide a huge amount of noise on the environement and might make your nearby devices work no more.
As the spindle is driven by DC PWM signals with High voltage (about 200 volts) the amount of noise propagating through the connecting cable is very huge.

Also notice that when you buy the spindle + inverter the shielded cable is not provided, as it depends how long you want it to be!.

So i looked on internet about shielded power cables and you may have a few alternatives:
- either the expensive BELDEN 19364 audiophile shielded cable (about 7€ per meter and the same for shipping)
Or DIY cable as i did:
-I took a standard AC power cable for PC (which is supposed to handle 16A)
- I removed both ends connectors to be able to connect the both ends of the cable to the spindle connector and to the inverter connectors. (UVW)
But wait a minute, some of you might say, "OK but it's not a shielded cable!", yeah you are ABSOLUTELY right!!!!!
So what about the shielding?
Simple => lets do the same as a shielded cable!
Take a few pieces of aluminium sheet
Cut some bands (about 1 inch/2.5cm wide)
So depending on your aluminium sheet (best is food aluminium sheets) my aluminium roll is about 29cm wide.
so my bands where 29cm Long x 2.5cm Wide.

And then what?
Take some standard Scotch tape and put some on one side of the aluminium band.
Then grab your power cable and roll the aluminium band all over the cable, and use the sticky part of the scotch band to stick the aluminum to the plastic cordon.
You will need several aluminium bands to be able to do it all along your cable!
Also make sure the each Bands are overlaping to that the shielding will be effective.
To make sure the shielding is at least working, take a multimeter and check that each side of the cable shielding is conductive.

What helps a lot to make the cable is that you might want to be 2 persones:
1 person holding straight the cable
1 person sticking the aluminium bands all along the cable.
You might also want to make sure the shielding don't go away, so take any duct tape or tapes used for electric isolation (those are usualy very cheap and very handy).
When you stick and roll the aluminium band over the cable, take your tape and roll it all around/over the band so that i makes a good contact and stick togather.
Make sure to leave both ends of the aluminium band without tape, so that the next overlaping band will make contact with it.
Once contact is made, of course you can put some tape on to tighten all things togather.

At the end you should have the whole cable covered of aluminium sheet connecting together and tighten by electrical tape.
Both cable ends should still have aluminium sheet visible.
Then solder the first end of the cable with the spindle connector.
you will notice that the connector is provided with a metallic holder, when you insert your cable make sure the metalic holder is connected to your cable shield.
You can add some heat shrinkable tube afterward to make a nice isolated cable

Then on the other end of the cable the trick is to take an electric cable (about 1mm diameter)
remove a part of it's isolation and wrap it around the shielding to make the connection between the cable and the shield.
The non wrapped cable side will become the 4th cable (ground cable) of your power cable.
The goal here is to be able to connect the cable shield to the ground of the inverter.

Once the non isolated cable part is wrapped around the shielding, take your soldering iron and put some tin on both shielding and copper to link them together electrically.
Once done prepare some heat shrinkable tube, place it on the cable, you can use some electrical tape to tighten all stuff together and then use your heat shrinkable tube to make it more adequate.

Here you are you have now a DIY shielded cable that cost you nothing except :
-a spare PC power cable (i'm sure most of us have plenty of those!)
-some cooking aluminium sheet
-some standard school tape to fix the alimunium sheet to the cable
-some electrical tape (to isolate and tighten the shielding)
-some heat shrinkable tube to nicely finish your DIY shielded cable.

Attached some pictures of my finised shielded cable. (sorry i didn't take any photos while doing it :/)
Inverter Bottom Wiring.jpg
Inverter Bottom Wiring.jpg (298.69 KiB) Viewed 31610 times
Inverter_Wiring.jpg (318.36 KiB) Viewed 31610 times
Spindle_Side_Shielded_Cable.jpg (292.97 KiB) Viewed 31610 times

Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:04 pm

Re: Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B

Post by Nutz95 » Sat Aug 24, 2013 9:16 pm

I forgot to provide a picture of shielded cable components.
here it is i hope it's more clear that way:
Shielded_cable_Components.jpg (305.53 KiB) Viewed 31609 times

Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:55 pm

Re: Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B

Post by areinike » Sun Sep 01, 2013 1:22 am

How does the Shapeoko handle the weight of the spindle. I just bought the 1.5KW water cooled spindle and then thought of the weight. I think it's about 6 lbs?

Posts: 4442
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:50 pm
Location: Camberley, UK

Re: Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B

Post by cvoinescu » Wed Sep 04, 2013 12:30 am

At 6 lb, you'll be happier with some sort of dual-X rail upgrade. It'll work on the stock machine, but the dual-X is one of the best bang-for-buck upgrades when it comes to rigidity. That, and metal spacers, while you're at it.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:04 pm

Re: Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B

Post by Nutz95 » Wed Sep 04, 2013 11:57 am

Right now mine (which is air cooled) seems OK. I had to upgrade the Z axis to make it more rigid and smoother on this axis.
I also had to tighten a little bit the X axis on the maker-slide to prevent as much movement as possible due to spindle weight.
On my side i don't have the double X upgrade, but when i move around manually the spindle on the ShapeOko everything seems smooth.
When i move it with some software commands the machine responds correctly in all axis.
Yet i'm waiting for the proper spindle's collars because i don't have the proper one for the 1/8'' cutting tool.
So i couldn't test it yet on a real milling operation.
I will post the my results when i get every pieces of the puzzle and i'll provide my feedrate settings as well so you can notice the difference (I hope i'll improve a lot the feed rates and accuracy.)

Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:55 pm

Re: Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B

Post by areinike » Mon Sep 09, 2013 5:47 pm

cvoinescu wrote:At 6 lb, you'll be happier with some sort of dual-X rail upgrade. It'll work on the stock machine, but the dual-X is one of the best bang-for-buck upgrades when it comes to rigidity. That, and metal spacers, while you're at it.
That was exactly my thinking. I went ahead and purchased the dual X upgrade kit.

Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:55 pm

Re: Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B

Post by areinike » Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:16 pm

I just got my spindle in yesterday, holy cow this thing is huge. I'm not really good with weight, but it definitely feels like more than 6 lbs. It's also 80mm in diameter. Put it this way, the mount backplate is almost as large as the Z axis plate on the shapeoko. I'm going to start building my machine this week, leaving the spindle last, but I'm having doubts. Maybe it's a paradigm thing. Worst case, I can build a Prius from it.

Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:49 am

Re: Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B

Post by afters » Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:23 pm

Just starting to make myself a shopping list for my first CNC build and very interested in these spindles. I'll be buying the V2 mechanical kit with dual X rails/dual Y motors and upgrading to Nema23 on X and Y so hopefully I should be good to go.
Wondering if anyone has any further feedback after using it for a while, is the weight causing any problems?
I notice there is an 80mm diameter model which has an ER16 collet and an 65mm diameter model which has an ER11 collet. Being a complete noob does the ER16 make much difference in choice of tooling or would it be better to save some weight on the smaller diameter unit?
Is it worth looking at using Nema23 on the Z also or is that just likely to make the weight problem worse for not much gain?

Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:10 pm

Re: Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B

Post by wile_e_coyote » Thu Jan 23, 2014 4:10 am

For my first post.
I would like to thank Nutz95 for posting his parameter settings on his VFD.
I work with VFD's everyday and when I was setting up my spindle (Chinese 400 Hz 0.8 Kw 24000 RPM) I was having a problem running it.
Perplexed I decided to lurk here and found his settings and it reminded me that this is a 400 Hz motor.
And because he was nice enough to post his finding I was able to set my VFD to the correct settings.
As I said I use VFD's everyday at work but we are always using 60 Hz motors so we don't have to change the default settings on the drive.
So if anybody else is having problems with there spindle you need to set the "Motor rated frequency" to 400 Hz as well as the motor "Maximum speed".
I only set the Maximum speed and not the Motor rated Frequency. Really screws things up.

So A big thank you to Nutz95!

Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2014 1:46 pm

Re: Spindle 1.5 KW 220V 400Hz + Huanyang Inverter (HY01D523B

Post by Lc1975 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 1:37 am

This has a quite some time...
But i need help if possible..
My english is not that great and i have a lot of dificulty to understand and to configure the vfd (HY01D523B) with a 1.5Kw 400Hertz air cooled spindle...
Most of the sets here is the same of others members from other forums.. But my big doubt is PD011 here not showed but in others they said that that valor has to be bigger then 100 they said that 120 is good because if that valor is not set the fan won't work....
Is that correct?
And this is the only PD's that need to be changed?

I appreciate any help..


Post Reply