Jewelry Box #2 For Daughter #2

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fasteddy
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:27 pm

Jewelry Box #2 For Daughter #2

Post by fasteddy » Wed Oct 02, 2019 3:51 pm

A few years ago I built my eldest daughter a jewelry box for her 9th birthday and posted it here, so I figured I'd do the same for daughter #2 (who also just turned 9). This time I started with a design that I found on the Vectric forums, though modified a bit.

Daughter 1 got a maple box with walnut accents, daughter 2 got a walnut box with maple accents.

This was my first experience with flocking, but it turned out really well (imo). Note, if any of the flocking glue bleeds under the edge of the tape, you can use a little paint thinner on a rag to rub it off, even a couple of days later (while it's mostly dry after 48 hours, full cure time is closer to a week).

I would say I'm happiest with the inlay. In order to make sure it would be seamless, I actually did a 3 part v-carve inlay. First I added the curly maple then used my shapeoko to cut away the excess (don't have a bandsaw, unfortunately), then the Madagascar ebony into the maple (again using the shapeoko to cut away the excess), and finally purple heart into the ebony. After each stage the lid was removed, glued and clamped. Then, to ensure alignment I cut a shallow pocket into a piece of MDF and carefully ensured clamps wouldn't be in the way.
Each successive step in the inlay was more nerve-wracking than the last - lots of double and triple checking all measurements and settings. A mistake towards the end would ruin a lot of work and waste a lot of time (I'll admit to starting over once or twice).

Finishing was also a bit of an issue. I opted for epoxy on the lid to make the curly maple pop, but sprayed poly on the rest. This was a mistake. While the lid looked great, transition between the lid and top compartment just seemed off. Epoxy leaves wood looking almost wet, while poly only darkens the tone a little. In the end, I sanded off all the epoxy off the sides and bottom of the lid leaving it only top. I was afraid it would look odd, but actually I think really works. (Note: it's perfectly fine to spray a coat of glossy poly over epoxy, and is much easier than masking and dealing with transition lines).

Not visible in the pictures are the neodymium magnets at the back of the swinging drawers that ensure they stay shut.

One issue with this design should you be interested in doing something similar, is that because the support posts are all at the back, there's a tendency for the drawers to rub against one another towards the front, hindering the swinging motion a little. A couple of washers in between each level seems to help, but you'll need to work that into your measurements for the back panel (not shown). I only accounted for a single washer initially, so there's a small gap a the back, but it's not tremendously noticeable. And in any case, levels are currently held together by friction - I can always go back later and replace the back panel with a slightly taller one.


JJBox1.jpg
JJBox1.jpg (119.75 KiB) Viewed 139 times
JJBox2.jpg
JJBox2.jpg (133.17 KiB) Viewed 139 times
JJBox3.jpg
JJBox3.jpg (96.08 KiB) Viewed 139 times

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