Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
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- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
Hi All,
Wanting to cut our logo into a few things and have worked out we need an endmill/engraver that has a cutting edge diam of 0.005" we only want to go as deep as 0.01" - 0.02" max
Here are out two options-
Specifies it is an engraving bit
https://www.inventables.com/technologie ... raving-bit
Or this Miniature Carbide End Mill from McMcarr?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#end-mills/=mjok9l
Or something from Precise bits?
http://www.precisebits.com/products/car ... t-soft.asp
Also looking for longevity in the bit ie 100s of jobs (is this realistic).
Thanks,
Ben
Wanting to cut our logo into a few things and have worked out we need an endmill/engraver that has a cutting edge diam of 0.005" we only want to go as deep as 0.01" - 0.02" max
Here are out two options-
Specifies it is an engraving bit
https://www.inventables.com/technologie ... raving-bit
Or this Miniature Carbide End Mill from McMcarr?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#end-mills/=mjok9l
Or something from Precise bits?
http://www.precisebits.com/products/car ... t-soft.asp
Also looking for longevity in the bit ie 100s of jobs (is this realistic).
Thanks,
Ben
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- Location: Fairhope, AL
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Re: Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
It looks like any of those would work given the information you have provided.
Can you share the logo and size you are going to engrave it?
With those small bits I am not sure what kind of detail you will get in the oak.
Can you share the logo and size you are going to engrave it?
With those small bits I am not sure what kind of detail you will get in the oak.
Shapeoko #Classified some of the bolts may be original parts.
Shapeoko 1 # ???? Stainless plates, still in the box.
Shapeoko 2 # 3926 not stock
Shapeoko 3 # 0003
Store:
http://ImprobableConstruct.com
Twitter:
https://twitter.com/ImprblConstruct
Shapeoko 1 # ???? Stainless plates, still in the box.
Shapeoko 2 # 3926 not stock
Shapeoko 3 # 0003
Store:
http://ImprobableConstruct.com
Twitter:
https://twitter.com/ImprblConstruct
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- Posts: 25
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2013 2:48 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
Think i just about need to put you on payroll with all this helpImprobable Construct wrote:It looks like any of those would work given the information you have provided.
Can you share the logo and size you are going to engrave it?
With those small bits I am not sure what kind of detail you will get in the oak.


according to makercam 0.005 will work for the detail in the letters.
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- Posts: 997
- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 3:21 am
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Re: Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
I think I would go with something like the bit from McMaster-Carr.
A shallow pocket cut will probably give you a better finished product than an engraving bit.
A shallow pocket cut will probably give you a better finished product than an engraving bit.
Shapeoko #Classified some of the bolts may be original parts.
Shapeoko 1 # ???? Stainless plates, still in the box.
Shapeoko 2 # 3926 not stock
Shapeoko 3 # 0003
Store:
http://ImprobableConstruct.com
Twitter:
https://twitter.com/ImprblConstruct
Shapeoko 1 # ???? Stainless plates, still in the box.
Shapeoko 2 # 3926 not stock
Shapeoko 3 # 0003
Store:
http://ImprobableConstruct.com
Twitter:
https://twitter.com/ImprblConstruct
-
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2013 2:48 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
Are there any benefits on the Mcmaster over the Precise bits one? Precise is a lot cheaper?
Re: Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
I'd go with an engraving bit. It's got a lot more "meat" to the actual cutting portion, and as such can withstand a lot more punishment. I've seen one engrave through a .625" cast aluminum plate at work. At the same time, those small endmills tend to be very finicky, and you generally wont know they snapped until too late. If you do go the endmill route though, I'd use a 1/16 or 1/8 to do the bulk of the work, then come in with the smaller endmill to do the corners and outer walls.
I do question why you need that small of a corner though, just using a 1/16 endmill should produce nice lettering.
I do question why you need that small of a corner though, just using a 1/16 endmill should produce nice lettering.
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- Posts: 997
- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 3:21 am
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Re: Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
No, I think either would be fine.ben_marrett wrote:Are there any benefits on the Mcmaster over the Precise bits one? Precise is a lot cheaper?
I suggested the end mil over the engraving bit because I haven had good luck with the engraving bits in wood.
Acrylic and aluminum, yes, but not in wood.
I would agree that you should use a larger bit to clear out the majority of the area.
I have yet to try to mill anything in wood that needed anything smaller than 1/32"
Shapeoko #Classified some of the bolts may be original parts.
Shapeoko 1 # ???? Stainless plates, still in the box.
Shapeoko 2 # 3926 not stock
Shapeoko 3 # 0003
Store:
http://ImprobableConstruct.com
Twitter:
https://twitter.com/ImprblConstruct
Shapeoko 1 # ???? Stainless plates, still in the box.
Shapeoko 2 # 3926 not stock
Shapeoko 3 # 0003
Store:
http://ImprobableConstruct.com
Twitter:
https://twitter.com/ImprblConstruct
-
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2013 2:48 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
Ill double check my sizing.... dont think your able to set that up in makercam with toolchanges etc?Cwalster wrote:I'd go with an engraving bit. It's got a lot more "meat" to the actual cutting portion, and as such can withstand a lot more punishment. I've seen one engrave through a .625" cast aluminum plate at work. At the same time, those small endmills tend to be very finicky, and you generally wont know they snapped until too late. If you do go the endmill route though, I'd use a 1/16 or 1/8 to do the bulk of the work, then come in with the smaller endmill to do the corners and outer walls.
I do question why you need that small of a corner though, just using a 1/16 endmill should produce nice lettering.
Re: Cutting small Logo into oak, Which bit to purchase
One problem with engraving in wood, is that the engraved portion looks almost identical to the rest of the piece (where as acrylic has a nice contrast) so the only way to see what has been engraved is to do it deep enough to create a show and / or fill in the engraved portion with paint.
I've had mixed success with putting vinyl over the area before milling, then spray painting black before removing the vinyl mask.
But I agree that a small endmill to create a pocket, will be better than an engraving bit.
I've had mixed success with putting vinyl over the area before milling, then spray painting black before removing the vinyl mask.
But I agree that a small endmill to create a pocket, will be better than an engraving bit.