Drawer pulls

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cchristianson
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 1:56 am

Drawer pulls

Post by cchristianson » Mon Jun 16, 2014 5:05 am

Wanted to figure out a way incorporate the CNC into the bathroom vanity I'm working on, but the girlfriend isn't that into inlays or cutouts all over the house, so I decided to make some fancy drawer pulls. I think they turned out pretty good. They are just dry-fit for now, but glued in and stained up I think they will look pretty b*tchin. Still have to put the rest of the vanity carcass together and build mold/pour the concrete countertop.
To do the pockets I used a 2.5d operation then a couple standard pockets. For the handles themselves I first did the bowtie/double dovetaily profile shapes. then took those out and milled a jig that perfectly matched those cutouts but rotated 90 degrees and did the arch profile. At first I had problems with binding when I tried to use regular tabs to hold everything together; this is the first time ive ever broken a bit somehow, and it was a fat 1/4" 2 flute downcut. I circumvented this problem by not milling the last 1/8" and taking each piece out, rough bandsawing through the rest, then flush trimming the rest on my router table. It was a lot of extra work but didnt want to risk my last nice downcut bit. for more pics/and a vid go here: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... sp=sharing
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zerblatt007
Posts: 196
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:48 am
Location: Bergen, Norway
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Re: Drawer pulls

Post by zerblatt007 » Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:22 am

Wow! Excellent work!
Shapeoko #958: Dual-Y drive, Double-X, Belt on outside, 1m Y-Axis, Acme Z, Opened up and boxed in. Kress 1050 Spindle.

RobCee
Posts: 587
Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2014 11:33 am
Location: Birmingham, UK

Re: Drawer pulls

Post by RobCee » Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:59 am

Wow, indeed! Great work and interesting process too.
ShapeOko2 #3400 - Chinese 800W AC Spindle - Stiffened X-Axis - TR10 Z-Axis - Inverted Z Motor - Hall Effect Limits - Drag Chains & Custom Brackets

WillAdams
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Location: Pennsylvania --- south of the Turnpike, East of US-15
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Re: Drawer pulls

Post by WillAdams » Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:09 pm

Very, very nice and quite elegant.
cchristianson wrote:Still have to put the rest of the vanity carcass together and build mold/pour the concrete countertop.
How are you going to make the mold for the concrete countertop? Will you be using your machine for that?

If so, will the sink be integral or a separate piece?
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/Makita RT0701 Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Elaire precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

Woodworker
Posts: 639
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2014 1:37 am
Location: 5 miles north of Benson, NC

Re: Drawer pulls

Post by Woodworker » Mon Jun 16, 2014 1:20 pm

Very nice, clean and modern. Great design and CNC integration. Can you share your CAD/CAM process for the recess?

Would you object to a PM with a few questions about your machine/table? It looks similar in size and function to the one I am planning.
BRuce - SO2 #4798 - IC's Z axis upgrade, customized Z rail and Z motor mount, spindle Dewalt 611

cchristianson
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 1:56 am

Re: Drawer pulls

Post by cchristianson » Mon Jun 16, 2014 10:49 pm

For the countertop I'm going to use melamine as the main mold material, I will only be using the cnc to make the sink cutout part, which is sortof an oval/hexagon under mount style Porcelain sink.
For the recess on the handles, I made a quick model of the upside down dome shape in rhino, and exported an stl file to bring into aspire. I suspect I could have skipped rhino altogether and just made it in aspire easy enough, but I had a complete 3d model of the rest of the vanity drawn up in rhino already, so I took the opportunity to do it there to help visualize that elements with the rest of the piece... Anyway, once in aspire I just did a 3d roughing toolpath with my trusty 1/4" 2 flute dowcut bit, followed by the inlay pockets, then did a 3d finishing path with an 1/8" ballnose. Each drawer/lid took about 30 minutes when all was said and done. Not too bad timewise considering how long it would take by hand. Please feel free to PM me with an questions or just do it here. Hope I can help!

Woodworker
Posts: 639
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2014 1:37 am
Location: 5 miles north of Benson, NC

Re: Drawer pulls

Post by Woodworker » Tue Jun 17, 2014 12:24 am

Thanks cchristianson. I don't like to hijack threads. My SO 2 was completed early May and I have been planning the permanent configuration. Is your machine 3' x 6' or whatever that translates in metric? That was the plan I have and to make the table a torsion box and use it as a vacuum table. I just finished installing a Dewalt 611. Seems I am headed in the same direction you have been.

What do you use for vacuum and is it sufficient to hold the work by itself?
Do the 2x4 legs give sufficient support against racking? I had planned double 2x4s and X bracing on the back side.
Do the wheel locks you use keep the table stationary?
Is the 611 doing everything you need it to? I saw your coffee table and was impressed.

Thanks for the information on the process flow. I haven't used either of those. I know I will need something similar eventually.
BRuce - SO2 #4798 - IC's Z axis upgrade, customized Z rail and Z motor mount, spindle Dewalt 611

cchristianson
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 1:56 am

Re: Drawer pulls

Post by cchristianson » Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:36 pm

The working area of my machine is about 22"x60" I meant for it to fit just over 24" by 60" but I miscalculated when I designed the table. Not the hugest deal, but can be a pain every now and again when I want do something a little wider. I think torsion box tables are the way to go, especially if you are trying to incorporate a vacuum table. The design I came up with allows for 4 independent zones, and also has a plethora of T-nut holes for other hold down methods.
- I used a smallish HVAC blower with a muffler, and it works pretty well. The vac table does fine on its own if the material has enough surface area, and the parts arent too small. Honestly I usually end up using hold downs for most things, but often times it is really nice to have the option for some materials. When I work with thin aluminum, or something that tends to deform a little with heat, I use a combination of vacuum and hold downs, and that helps keep everything nice and flat. All in all, I would say it was well worth the extra time and materials to do the torsion box/vac setup.
-The 2x4 legs provide plenty of support, especially since I added in a lower shelf/table that adds a ton of extra support especially in the racking department. If I wheel the table onto an uneven surface, it will remain having only 2 or 3 points of contact with the ground, meaning that it is too rigid/flat to deform to uneven surfaces (good thing).
- I used some of the cheapest casters I could find at harbor freight, and they work like a charm. I use them on everything. They are the ones with the blue wheels and the grey plastic locks that have a pressure foot on the actual tire instead of the hub. I think they are rated for something like 125 lbs per caster for a total of 500 lbs.
-I have used the stock dremel knockoff, the D660, and the d611 on my machine. The 611 is by far my favorite, and it does well enough for everything I do. I do wish it came with an 1/8" collet, but I have had good luck just using a reducer. No problems yet. I also like that it seems quite a bit quieter and smoother than the 660.

Let me know if you have any more questions or if I didnt answer any of those thoroughly enough... check out the link below in my signature to see pics of my build process that show the torsion box before it is all sealed up. I can get you files if you want to check them out as well.

Woodworker
Posts: 639
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2014 1:37 am
Location: 5 miles north of Benson, NC

Re: Drawer pulls

Post by Woodworker » Wed Jun 18, 2014 12:09 am

Thank you, following the link was how I knew about your table. Vacuum zones, that is a good idea. I am guessing that most of my work will be smaller than the full table and no need to pull a vacuum on the whole thing. Good to know it is stiff enough to not flex when moving, my hope Is to only move it when something is broke on the far side. I also like the perimeter shelf/compartments. That keeps tools and such off the table. Do you use just the caster locks or do you use something else to keep it in place? My SO2 doesn't move my workbench but it isn't directly attached to it either. I noticed that you did some throat plates for your table saw, that was the first thing I did but can only do one at time on the stock machine.

Thanks for the info and I will probably incorporate several of your ideas in my machine, it is very nice.
BRuce - SO2 #4798 - IC's Z axis upgrade, customized Z rail and Z motor mount, spindle Dewalt 611

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