Wasteboard

Discussion about Tooling and Fixtures. End Mills, Router Bits, Hold Downs, Fixtures, Etc.
Shook
Posts: 139
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:50 pm
Location: Downingtown, PA

Wasteboard

Post by Shook » Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:44 pm

1I tried a project yesterday with some oak scraps. I was using double-sided tape on a sacrificial board as well as on the workpiece itself and halfway through the job, the tape started moving enough that I had to cancel it.

It's time to get real with the hold downs. I have a handful of threaded inserts, but I really don't want to drill into the actual "waste" board since it's more like a structural piece. I was going to go the route of transferring the holes from the original waste board to a single piece of MDF, but I don't have a transfer punch set (and Harbor freight seems to only carry imperial unit sets). I'm hesitant to drop $30 on a transfer punch set that I'll need for one operation.

What I think I'd like to have is a one-piece waste board on top of the existing waste board using the same mounting holes and 35mm M5 screws.

Can I expect decent results lining up the pieces and marking the hole centers with a brad point drill bit? Or is that asking for trouble?
Shapeoko 3 (#1107)

CastIrony
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Location: Portland, OR

Re: Wasteboard

Post by CastIrony » Sun Nov 29, 2015 6:08 pm

Or is that asking for trouble?
Nope, that's exactly what I did. I've had really good luck with it, though in retrospect I probably should have gone for 1/2" MDF instead of 3/4".
Shapeoko 3 #192 - Complete! Needs limit switches.

Shook
Posts: 139
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:50 pm
Location: Downingtown, PA

Re: Wasteboard

Post by Shook » Sun Nov 29, 2015 8:00 pm

Thanks. Just looking for some confirmation to make sure that I don't bodge things up too badly.
Shapeoko 3 (#1107)

CastIrony
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Location: Portland, OR

Re: Wasteboard

Post by CastIrony » Sun Nov 29, 2015 10:49 pm

I don't think you need a special transfer punch though, just a pencil
Shapeoko 3 #192 - Complete! Needs limit switches.

Shook
Posts: 139
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:50 pm
Location: Downingtown, PA

Re: Wasteboard

Post by Shook » Sun Nov 29, 2015 10:51 pm

My biggest concern was that I would rack the machine out of square if I poorly marked the hole centers.
Shapeoko 3 (#1107)

sjj47
Posts: 55
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:40 pm

Re: Wasteboard

Post by sjj47 » Mon Nov 30, 2015 11:13 pm

My biggest concern was that I would rack the machine out of square if I poorly marked the hole centers.
For my wasteboard I cut a piece of 3/4" MDF almost the size of the baseboard. Centered it between the rails and lined the front edge with the front edge of the baseboard. (Make sure the R/L edges of the wasteboard are far enough from the rails that there is room for the plates to move past without touching). Drilled down through the wasteboard to mark the baseboard, at the four corners 1" in from the edges (outside the cutting area - so the bit cannot inadvertently contact the boltheads).

Used the 23/64" drill in the baseboard to drill the holes for the inserts. Attached the wasteboard to the baseboard with 1/4-20 bolts.

I then trammed the working area to make sure it was square to the router. Cut a shallow (0.5 mm) grid over the whole working area (1" intervals) -- useful for lining up workpieces. Then (following Winston Moy) ran an nc file to drill a pattern of 23/64 holes for the inserts. Saved all the nc files used in a "replace_wasteboard" folder.

When the time comes to replace the old wasteboard, cut a new wasteboard to the same size, take the old one off, line the old and new ones up, and use the old wasteboard holes as a template for drilling the holes in the new wasteboard. Voila!

If you are worried about racking, just make the holes in the wasteboard larger -- say, 3/8" instead of 1/4". Once you tighter the bolts I guarantee the wasteboard won't move around.
--------------------------------
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Shook
Posts: 139
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:50 pm
Location: Downingtown, PA

Re: Wasteboard

Post by Shook » Tue Dec 01, 2015 12:00 am

Thanks for all of the good ideas everyone. I think I've got the idea now.
Shapeoko 3 (#1107)

Chris314
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Sep 18, 2015 3:25 am

Re: Wasteboard

Post by Chris314 » Sun Dec 13, 2015 8:48 am

I made two wasteboards this week, one prior to purchasing a set of transfer punches & fostner bit, and one after. The second attempt is for all purposes a 1:1 copy of the Shapeoko supplied board.

If you think about it, those HF imperial transfer punches that you mentioned are in 1/64th increments between 3/32nd and 1/2", so each transfer punch is roughly 0.40mm larger than the next, it's sufficiently close. The punch that I used snuggly fit the Shapeoko supplied wasteboard, plus the entire set only set me back 10 or so dollars after HF's perpetual coupons.

From there I used a 12mm fostner bit to remove 1/4" of material on a 3/4" MDF board. This was a bit that Edward recommended in another thread. It was a large improvement over my previous strategy of using a countersinking bit. Finally follow it up with a drillbit for each M5 fastener and repeat.

Harborfreight transfer punches http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-t ... -3577.html
12mm fostner bit http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P4HLEY

Shook
Posts: 139
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:50 pm
Location: Downingtown, PA

Re: Wasteboard

Post by Shook » Sun Dec 13, 2015 10:58 pm

Thanks for the info. I did end up picking up the HF transfer punch set (25% off coupon was nice).

I bit the bullet and put 70 threaded inserts into the front half of my wasteboard. I figured that I'm not going to cut into the wasteboard for through cuts (at least I'm not planning to). I can clamp material down on top of something sacrificial (cardboard, failed projects, etc) or screw material directly down to the wasteboard itself.

I have a bunch of 1/2" MDF left over from making the table for the SO3. I'll probably pull the wasteboard up over the Christmas break and make a spare just in case.
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WillAdams
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Re: Wasteboard

Post by WillAdams » Mon Dec 14, 2015 12:05 am

Don’t use cardboard or paper as a spoil board — it’s abrasive enough that it will dull an endmill.
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/Makita RT0701 Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Elaire precision collets
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