Black oxide washers?

Dave Durant · Post by **Dave Durant** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:00 am

Started assembly of my S3 tonight. w00t!

The Y axis assembly calls for 8x M5 black oxide flat washers but I have a grade total of 0 washers that are black.

The packing list declares:
- S3024 : M6 Flat Washer, black oxide - SS (4)
- S3025 : M5 Flat Washer, black oxide - SS (20)

I do have 20x M5 washers and 4x M6 washers but they're silver - not black. A little shinier on one side than the other. I don't see any other washers listed in the packing list.

Does it matter if they're black oxide or not? I suspect not but nobody else seems to have mentioned this so.. maybe I'm the only one and it does matter? I don't know. I just know I'm a clueless newbie. I'm not in a hurry - no worries having to order some and wait for them. I just want to get all the right parts in..

Post by **WillAdams** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:15 am

There have been a couple of changes to the parts --- this is a minor one, can't see it making a real difference.

FWIW the B.O.M. on the wiki notes both black oxide and stainless steel.

Dave Durant · Post by **Dave Durant** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 3:38 pm

WillAdams wrote:this is a minor one, can't see it making a real difference.

That was sorta what I assumed but it was a difference from the BOM that nobody else had pointed out, so I mentioned it anyway.

WillAdams wrote:FWIW the B.O.M. on the wiki notes both black oxide and stainless steel.

I believe you but I thought I looked for that.. Do you have a link handy?

Post by **WillAdams** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 3:48 pm

http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/ ... 8B.O.M..29

Also, when it says:

>8 4 S3025 M5 Flat Washer, black oxide - SS

The SS stands for stainless steel, so it should be an either or thing.

Dave Durant · Post by **Dave Durant** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 4:18 pm

WillAdams wrote:The SS stands for stainless steel, so it should be an either or thing.

Ok, that's the bit I was missing. I did not know that. Thanks!

FabricatorCraig · Post by **FabricatorCraig** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:54 am

The only real difference, of impossible importance to some, is cosmetic. If one is going for a "blacked-out" look then the substitution of standard vs black oxide could warrant seeking local replacements.

I had noticed the same discrepancy when inventorying my kit upon arrival. However, after reviewing the specs (BOM vs actual), it seemed to be purely a difference in visuals and assembled perfectly fine from a mechanical perspective.

Hans · Post by **Hans** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:42 pm

FWIW stainless hardware is better because black oxide coated steel will still rust from condensation over time.

Dave Durant · Post by **Dave Durant** » Sat Jul 25, 2015 9:08 pm

Couple more questions... I'm about in the middle of putting the X carriage together.

After several minutes of trying to get it onto a bolt, I took a close look at one of the eccentric nuts and find that it's not threaded. Any chance I'm going to find one of these at a local hardware store or do I just need to email Carbide? I've googled and don't see much that I can get today.

The directions call for 4x 1-1/4" #12 Bore, Aluminum Spacer - number 17 on that sheet - to stand off the X motor. It looks like mine are 1 inch long.. I see the wiki says "1-1/4" #12 Bore, Aluminum Spacer --- changed to 1" length?" so I guess I'm not the first. What are people doing here? Just plowing forward with the 1" version?

Are there tips on how to orient the motors on the plates so the wires are facing the right direction?

Post by **WillAdams** » Sat Jul 25, 2015 9:37 pm

Apparently the 1" version of the spacer is now correct, just use it.

For the eccentric nut, these used to be available in a form which was a spacer and required a washer and a nut — if an M5 will fit through it, that’s what you have. If not, somehow one got through unthreaded.

See the wiki for details: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Parts#All_Axes

Not a standard part at your typical hardware store. You should be able to make do w/ a trip to the hardware store, though:

- if you have a spacer, get a longer M5 bolt, a washer and a nut
- if you have an unthreaded nut, get a longer bolt which will just fit, two matching washers and a nut — check both sides of the aisle, an Imperial bolt may be the best fit (not familiar w/ metric drilling for tapping dimensions)

Check the balance of your parts before you head out!

Good luck!

Post by **WillAdams** » Sat Jul 25, 2015 9:41 pm

I’m pretty certain the .pdf instructions (and the wiki?) has specific instructions on the motor’s wire orientation.

Mine are towards the extrusion for Y-axes, towards the left of the machine from the front of the machine (facing the pulleys) for the other two.

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