SuperPID help

CastIrony
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Location: Portland, OR

Re: SuperPID help

Post by CastIrony » Tue May 12, 2015 12:29 am

cvoinescu wrote:I would like to know what triac the SuperPID uses. There are countless images of the SuperPID on the Internet, but the only ones where I can make out the markings are version 1.0. The current version uses a different triac. All I know is that it's an STMicro part...
I'll post a close-up photo tonight. No guarantees on whether it'll be identifiable though.
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CastIrony
Posts: 650
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:21 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Re: SuperPID help

Post by CastIrony » Tue May 12, 2015 12:35 am

veng1 wrote:Assuming the part that requires heat sinking is a triac, then get the part number off it and look at the data sheet. If it is an insulated tab, then is doesn't require electrical insulation. Otherwise, it does.

Then measure it with an Ohm meter to double check in case the designer did something stupid. The life you save may be your own.
The Super-PID instructions specifically say to consider the heatsink tab to be live:
Safety Note! If your heatsink can be touched it is necessary to make sure the heatsink is electrically insulated from the heatsink tag on the Super-PID. This means using an insulating gasket and non conductive screws. Generally the best option is to enclose the entire heatsink so it can never be touched (as seen in the examples on the previous page).
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newtothis
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Re: SuperPID help

Post by newtothis » Mon May 18, 2015 12:27 am

@CastIrony

Nice mod. I did the wire jump this afternoon while watching the Blackhawks lose on my DWP611. Next step is to finish the sensor mount and paint.

Question for you on the SuperPID board to router connection. Looks like you used an orange cable. Did you snip off the end of a extension cord and just use the female end so you could plug in the black router male plug to it? Or something different? I was going to snip the plug end of the router plug and wire it in directly. But maybe the female plug idea is better.
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rtlflatt
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Re: SuperPID help

Post by rtlflatt » Mon May 18, 2015 3:33 am

what you said about extension cord will work. what im doing is putting a regular wall socket in a plastic single gang box to plug router in and then wiring that socket to the superpid. that way i can mount box somewhere and run 14 awg 3 conductor wire back to the super pid and not worry about loose cords that could possibly be yanked out of the superpid. and the input from the wall to the superpid im mounting one end of a locking powercon connector so i can lock extension cord from wall in. then only place a potential disconnect could happen is directly at the wall instead of somewhere inside of my enclosure.

definately dont cut end of router plug tho.... no reason to tear that cord up.
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CastIrony
Posts: 650
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:21 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Re: SuperPID help

Post by CastIrony » Mon May 18, 2015 3:57 am

newtothis wrote:@CastIrony

Nice mod. I did the wire jump this afternoon while watching the Blackhawks lose on my DWP611. Next step is to finish the sensor mount and paint.

Question for you on the SuperPID board to router connection. Looks like you used an orange cable. Did you snip off the end of a extension cord and just use the female end so you could plug in the black router male plug to it? Or something different? I was going to snip the plug end of the router plug and wire it in directly. But maybe the female plug idea is better.
I used an extension cord. The router claims it only uses 7 amp, but I used a 15 amp cable just to be safe. If you use a grounded cable, just make sure the input ground is connected to the output ground.
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newtothis
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Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 6:10 pm
Location: North Suburbs of Chicago

Re: SuperPID help

Post by newtothis » Mon May 18, 2015 4:19 pm

I was planning to use a grounded cable at least to ground the SuperPID thru the mains. What's not clear to me is that the DWP611 is only 2 prong and has no ground wire. So just a positive and neg out to router from PID. I could ground the outlet to plug the router into but it's a dead end since there's no ground wire on the router.

Thoughts?
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rtlflatt
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Location: Bay Area, CA

Re: SuperPID help

Post by rtlflatt » Mon May 18, 2015 5:06 pm

I beleive that's fine for ground to dead end. It safer if it run length of cable even if dead end in case neutral fail. Hot and cold from wall go into superpid, and connect ground from Wall to ground on extension cord that's cut for router to plug into is how mine is wired.

My dad advised that it is optional but recommended. But if somebody know different speak up please
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Dave Durant
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Location: MA, USA

Re: Shapeoko 3 - Questions / Answers

Post by Dave Durant » Wed Jul 08, 2015 4:19 pm

Jem-tech wrote:Here's a link to the Dewalt 611 super-PID install pdf file
http://www.adamdavid.me/home/router/dew ... ects=0&d=1
The page footer on this document says "DeWALT D26204K/DWP611 conversion to SUPERPID v1.1" but it's really for the SuperPID v2 product, right? I think it's supposed to mean document version v1.1, not SuperPID version v1.1.

Electronics scare me.

CastIrony
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Location: Portland, OR

Re: Shapeoko 3 - Questions / Answers

Post by CastIrony » Wed Jul 08, 2015 4:39 pm

Dave Durant wrote:
Jem-tech wrote:Here's a link to the Dewalt 611 super-PID install pdf file
http://www.adamdavid.me/home/router/dew ... ects=0&d=1
The page footer on this document says "DeWALT D26204K/DWP611 conversion to SUPERPID v1.1" but it's really for the SuperPID v2 product, right? I think it's supposed to mean document version v1.1, not SuperPID version v1.1.

Electronics scare me.
That document might actually date back to the SuperPID v1.1, no idea. The procedure shouldn't have changed, though.

All you're doing is bypassing the speed controller on the router, and adding an RPM sensor.
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CastIrony
Posts: 650
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:21 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Re: SuperPID help

Post by CastIrony » Mon Jul 13, 2015 7:14 pm

Ok, my Super-PID is now behaving strangely. I sent them this email:
I’m having a strange issue with my Super-PID v2.

When I originally hooked it up, it worked perfectly. I could control the speed smoothly from 5000 rpm to 30,000 rpm. I didn’t have my CNC machine ready yet, so I put it into storage for a few months. I tested it last week after I took it out, and it still worked as expected across the whole speed range.

I tried it again this week, and am seeing odd behavior:

* Below ~10,000 rpm, the router makes a weird noise and won’t hold the right speed.
* From ~10,000 rpm to ~20,000 rpm, the router works as expected
* Above ~20,000 rpm, the display reads “0 rpm” and the router goes to full power.

I took a video of it, which isn’t very good, but good enough to see what’s happening:



I read a forum post suggesting the issue might be the 5v power supply, so I tried another one, and had the same issue.

I’ve probably only run the Super-PID for 20 minutes total, and not more than 3 minutes at a time.


Any ideas what could be wrong?

-Joel
But it's only 5am in Australia, so I'm not expecting a reply for a while :D
Shapeoko 3 #192 - Complete! Needs limit switches.

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