Noob Q: How do I locate documents about 2.4d pinout?

[FoxMarine]

Hi all,

I'm new to the group and trying to find the pinout for the Carbide Motion controller v2.4d

I found the v2.1 PDF but it looks to be a bit outdated.

Thanks

[Klinklang]

There is no updated pdf now, I wonder how as well

[FoxMarine]

Here is what I got from support on the issue. I removed all of the useless excuses and reasoning for why they don't provide this information.

To add an ESTOP, you'll need to remove jumper R37 (inside the red circle) and connect a normally closed (*this is an edit as he first said open) switch where the two red arrows are pointing (next to R37)

Regarding pause, I think you're referring to the feedhold pin, which I labeled here as well. That will pause the operation, but you need a resume command sent via the software or through the use of the resume button, which is not broken out. (*he did not offer up any more info about the resume input)

The probe pins (also marked by a red arrow) handle the tool length sensor on the Nomad, but they can be used on the shapeoko for a tool sensor and touch plate (our official version coming soon), like this: http://community.carbide3d.com/t/trique ... plate/2232

Reference Photo

CM24D.jpg (545.18 KiB) Viewed 2619 times

I hope this helps save some time and wasted resources contacting support for basic information.

-Dustin

[psutex]

I was told to use the E stop function the "R37" jumper has to be removed. How do you do this? Jumpers to me have always been small plugs that connect the jumper pins. Are these soldered on jumpers?
Do you just add heat from soldering iron and these jumpers fall off?
Thanks.
Rick

[RoguePirin]

This advice is strictly based on the picture in the post above yours. I do not have the version 2.4d board and I have not done this myself.

The photo above your post shows "R37" to be a resistor, of 0 Ohms rating?, that must be removed. It is soldered onto the board, so yes, you would need to add heat from a soldering iron to get it off. Since it is soldered at both ends, it would be best to use soldering wick to remove the solder from one end at a time. You can't just heat one end and move it a little bit before heating the other end, unless you have an iron with a large enough surface to touch both ends at the same time. If that is the case, you can heat both ends up and then push against it with the iron to get it to move off of its soldering pads. But be careful, the solder on it will cool quickly once the iron is removed and it will stick to any other exposed metal. If you push with the soldering iron, I would push towards the capacitors, as there don't appear to be any exposed contacts in that direction.