Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

mjohn
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Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by mjohn » Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:07 am

One of these days, I'll leave my ShapeOko alone long enough to use it.. Until then, I'm having fun modifying it.

I figured I would document my latest venture, converting the ShapeOKO to a 24x48" (2x4 foot) footprint. With actual working area less of course, I'll figure that out when I have it finished (Probably 18x36ish). Until then, here are some photos. Galvanized steel brackets, they measure out with the caliper to be shy of 7/64th of an inch. I may double up if I have too much wobble but so far they're rigid enough to keep adjustment while taking some force to bend and make any changes.

The whole table:
Image
This is a 2x4' table built around the '2x4Basics' workbench legs. For $70 you get some great sturdy plastic legs and you supply and cut 2x4's and MDF to suit whatever size you want, up to 8' I believe. Doesn't get any easier than that. Plus without a full front plate I can push the gantry to the back corner and use the table for other purposes.

Left rail detail:
Image
This is a closeup of the left rail. The right rail is a mirror copy. I really dislike ripping boards, luckily my local home improvement store sells all sorts of material in 2x4 lengths. So instead of a previous idea of rails that unlatched from the front and lifted up, I came up with this. Sure, if you have the ability to slide material from the side you're golden, but I don't. Instead of a front/back bracket to hold the makerslide, I put a the front bracket on the side and used a 90°. I'm thinking this may be optimal because of the perpendicular brackets it seems to really sturdy up the rails. If I had to parallel brackets there might be extra wobble.

Everything except the makerslide of course was purchased in the building section of my local home improvement store. So far the rails are very sturdy and I've been able to get both the left and right rails square and exactly the same height off the table. Front and back right to left is also perfectly parallel.

This weekend will be drilling the motor mounts to take a double X makerslide (of about 45 inches or so). Plenty of wiring, but that's the easy part.. Right?

-John
John Milleker Jr. - Historical Process Photographer/Instructor
Baltimore Maryland, USA - http://www.JohnMilleker.com
ShapeOko #1,284 - Upgrades: 2x4Oko (24x48" footprint), Double X rails, Acme-Z, Dual Y, DW660, IC's Dust Shoe w/Dust Collection.

WillAdams
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Re: Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by WillAdams » Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:06 pm

Sweet!

Love the redneck look --- will definitely have to consider something like that when I go to 1m.
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WillAdams
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Re: Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by WillAdams » Fri Feb 22, 2013 1:10 pm

Okay, a few questions:

- did you consider using some kind of angular extrusion at the corners (at least at the rear)?
- how are you fastening things?
- are you putting in some sort of support underneath to keep the (MDF?) from flexing?
- what are you planning to use for cable management? (I'm planning on visiting some local junk yards in the hope of scavenging some drag chain from the door mechanism of some newer van models which use such)
- most up-scaled Shapeokos have had a longer Y-axis than X (or are square) --- I think this is the first I've seen so dramatically the other way

Looking forward to seeing how it works out --- I'd be grateful if you'd write up a parts list --- I'm especially interested in the angle brackets you used to connect the Makerslide to the verticals.

William
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/Makita RT0701 Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Elaire precision collets
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mjohn
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Re: Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by mjohn » Fri Feb 22, 2013 1:27 pm

Redneck look? I was going for hip and high class... ;)

Some answers to your questions..

- I have contemplated angles at the back and front but I really don't think I need them. Doubling up would be my first mod if I need more stability followed by angles.
- For the front angle connection I'm using #10 bolts, washers, lock washers on both sides and threadlock. I was surprised that with just two it's not going anywhere, I drilled the full four holes mating up to the angle and can always add more. Connecting the makerslide I'm tapping like usual and just using normal hardware with the addition of a lock washer. To attach to the bench it's just three 3" wood screws to each corner. Easily upgradable to heavy duty bolts, but I don't seem to need them.
- The table calls for a corner to corner 2x4 under the top shelf for stability and that's what I have in there now. The true test is to attach a 2x4' piece of paper to the surface and run a marker over the whole surface to make sure I'm getting a good accurate Z across the whole piece. If I experience bowing I'm going to get some brackets and make an X underneath. Or maybe invest into a metal piece of material for my top surface. The beauty of this design is that I can just pop out the top piece without touching any of the existing brackets.
- I used the McMaster Carr spring sheathing on the normal sized unit and that was ok, it won't work here so I was planning on building a cable carrier. Here's a great video on a DIY solution with 1/8" material (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAWcicckaMA). I may just bite the bullet and order a manufacturered solution, not sure yet.
- I thought about if I wanted to turn the unit 90° but figured I would rather have the longer axis handled by double makerslide material. Since I'm going double X during this build that seemed to be the logical way to go. Plus, if I went the other way I couldn't use the table as a workbench when not milling.

Thanks, I'll get together a list this weekend on the brackets used.
John Milleker Jr. - Historical Process Photographer/Instructor
Baltimore Maryland, USA - http://www.JohnMilleker.com
ShapeOko #1,284 - Upgrades: 2x4Oko (24x48" footprint), Double X rails, Acme-Z, Dual Y, DW660, IC's Dust Shoe w/Dust Collection.

Will Winder
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Re: Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by Will Winder » Fri Feb 22, 2013 3:22 pm

mjohn wrote:Plus, if I went the other way I couldn't use the table as a workbench when not milling.
I got a kick that you're planning this as one of the features of your design. (and kicking myself for not thinking of it too!!)

Drag chain isn't very expensive, and keep in mind that you only need the chain for a little over half the length of each axis (since it folds in half):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-drag-chai ... 1c1ef084e7
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-drag-chai ... 5d38c3f17d
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mjohn
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Re: Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by mjohn » Fri Feb 22, 2013 3:54 pm

My office isn't very big, I had gotten used to the workbench being big enough to keep my soldering iron and vice on. Project area will keep me from using the dining room table and getting evil looks for doing it.
Will Winder wrote:
mjohn wrote:Plus, if I went the other way I couldn't use the table as a workbench when not milling.
I got a kick that you're planning this as one of the features of your design. (and kicking myself for not thinking of it too!!)
John Milleker Jr. - Historical Process Photographer/Instructor
Baltimore Maryland, USA - http://www.JohnMilleker.com
ShapeOko #1,284 - Upgrades: 2x4Oko (24x48" footprint), Double X rails, Acme-Z, Dual Y, DW660, IC's Dust Shoe w/Dust Collection.

jrsteensen
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Re: Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by jrsteensen » Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:01 pm

That is pretty much awesome!

WillAdams
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Re: Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by WillAdams » Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:11 pm

``Redneck'' wasn't the right word (was meant to be a placeholder until I thought of the right one, but I forgot and hit submit) --- ``big box store industrial'' I think would be the proper terminology. If it were truly redneck, there would need to be some exposed duct tape and bailing wire.

That's what I get for posting before I have a cup of coffee.

Thanks for responding --- I'll be curious to see how the long X-axis will work out --- I'm pretty sure you're setting a record / exploring new territory for that.

Will you be fastening the two X lengths of Makerslide together?

I'm thing I've been wondering about is if one would get any sort of increased stiffness by running a length of threaded rod down the middle of each length of Makerslide and fastening it w/ nuts from either end --- can't recall having seen mention of that (if I missed it, I'd love to be pointed to it).
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mjohn
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Re: Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by mjohn » Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:36 pm

I got the meaning Will, no offense taken. It really is sort of redneck. Exposed lumber yard lumber. The only thing I could do to make it even more redneck is to install the ShapeOKO on an empty cable spool!

I think someone has a ShapeOKO that is cutting 4x8 feet full sheets of material.

Didn't think about fastening the X's together. I don't think so, as long as I can get the holes lined up correctly on the motor plate to sandwich them together pretty tightly. The only thing I can see happening with that would be twisting of the X axis I suppose. If that happens then I'll figure out something to bolt them together. I also saw another mod where someone placed a round bar on the X Axis but down and behind the makerslides. That's always another possibility. That's certainly a test. Cut a test object on each end and perfectly in the middle to check for bowing.

I'm thinking the tapped makerslides are pretty tight, especially if you're using lock washers. I crank them down pretty hard. But certainly an option. I'm new to all of this, only thing I can hope for is a problem popping up that I can correct with a bit of smartmaking.
John Milleker Jr. - Historical Process Photographer/Instructor
Baltimore Maryland, USA - http://www.JohnMilleker.com
ShapeOko #1,284 - Upgrades: 2x4Oko (24x48" footprint), Double X rails, Acme-Z, Dual Y, DW660, IC's Dust Shoe w/Dust Collection.

Improbable Construct
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Re: Upsizing - the 2x4Oko build

Post by Improbable Construct » Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:51 pm

WillAdams wrote: I'm thing I've been wondering about is if one would get any sort of increased stiffness by running a length of threaded rod down the middle of each length of Makerslide and fastening it w/ nuts from either end --- can't recall having seen mention of that (if I missed it, I'd love to be pointed to it).
There was some discussion of that somewhere on here...
I think it was off topic so i can't for the life of me find it but,
I believe that the consensus was that it would just cause the makerslide to bow out and not add any structural stiffness.
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