ShapeOko #1508 Build Log

LTMNO
Posts: 172
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:56 am

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by LTMNO » Thu Mar 28, 2013 1:00 am

WillAdams wrote:Do we have the CAD files for the open end plates? Looks straightforward enough to draw up.

What materials could they be made from?

I've actually been wondering if they could be made from something available at ponoko.com, or even a home improvement store.
Hi WillAdams,
I just checked ponoko, nothing there... and I don't have the files, but I am sure it is not hard to design them based on having the original plates which i think the designs are available.

Why do you ask, Do you have a ShapeOko that can shape/cut/mill them? I would be happy to draft something and work out the details and pay for time and material.

But then again, its 4mm Stainless Steel and being sold for $14.94 BP in the UK. This would include 4x Plates. I am not sure if it is proprietary or if you can design your own?

I spoke with Inventables and they are waiting on Edwards final designs, etc to start manufacturing them and making them available to the public in the NA.
ShapeOko #1508, TinyG Controller, Dual Y, ACME Z-Axis, MeanWell(S-350-24v), NEMA 23's, 1m Squared t-slot table, OpenRail and the Original Z Makerslide and all Motor Plates...

wlanfox
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2012 10:49 am

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by wlanfox » Thu Mar 28, 2013 7:51 am

Hi LTMNO,

On my setup I made the end plates from 1/4 thick aluminum T6 bar, they seem to be holding up fine as of now... Didn't really do any CAD on it, as the bottom holes need to be 10mm high and the ones holding the extrusions are 20mm apart centered. Each end plate is 120mm long.

Started with something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pieces-1-4-X- ... 53f60d15eb

This is how they look after cutting and drilling:
Image

LTMNO
Posts: 172
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:56 am

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by LTMNO » Thu Mar 28, 2013 1:25 pm

Hi Wlanfox, that is fantastic, thanks for sharing, its your build that got me thinking about this from the beginning.
Do you see any problems arising from the 1/4 think aluminum. I guess the other plates are what? 1/8 Stainless Steel.
How did you gut them? The drilling is no problem.. just wondering about the cutting.

Did you have any material left over? enough to make another set? willing to make and sell a set for your T&M? I am going to be in the USA on Apr 8/9th and we could work out delivery, etc.

Please let me know.

But if you respond with some easy way of cutting them? then I am happy to build them myself.

Did you do something like this?
Cutting aluminum is an easy job, and you can use standard wood working tools with regular carbide blades. They can cut aluminium with precision using the normal wood working equipments. The cutting speed and precision of the wood working equipments are faster than the aluminium cutting machines. Hence, the lubricants are really helpful. If you wish to decrease the speed in which the machine performs metal cut, you can do so by reducing the diameter of the cutting blades.

For example, when you use a 10 inches table saw to cut aluminium plate, the speed of cutting aluminium can be much faster than you require. In order to decrease the speed, you can reduce the blade size to 7 ¼ inches. This helps in decreasing the speed of cutting aluminium by 27.5%.

The 7.25 inches blade rotates and cuts aluminum per revolution through the precision cut techniques. Moreover, carbide tipped blade can easily withstand the high cutting aluminium speed that the normal speed steel blade can’t. Same is the case with the router bits that only use carbide tipped bits and a speed router attachment to reduce the speed of the aluminium cutting machine.
ShapeOko #1508, TinyG Controller, Dual Y, ACME Z-Axis, MeanWell(S-350-24v), NEMA 23's, 1m Squared t-slot table, OpenRail and the Original Z Makerslide and all Motor Plates...

wlanfox
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2012 10:49 am

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by wlanfox » Thu Mar 28, 2013 5:06 pm

LTMNO wrote: But if you respond with some easy way of cutting them? then I am happy to build them myself.

Did you do something like this?
Cutting aluminum is an easy job, and you can use standard wood working tools with regular carbide blades. They can cut aluminium with precision using the normal wood working equipments. The cutting speed and precision of the wood working equipments are faster than the aluminium cutting machines. Hence, the lubricants are really helpful. If you wish to decrease the speed in which the machine performs metal cut, you can do so by reducing the diameter of the cutting blades.

For example, when you use a 10 inches table saw to cut aluminium plate, the speed of cutting aluminium can be much faster than you require. In order to decrease the speed, you can reduce the blade size to 7 ¼ inches. This helps in decreasing the speed of cutting aluminium by 27.5%.

The 7.25 inches blade rotates and cuts aluminum per revolution through the precision cut techniques. Moreover, carbide tipped blade can easily withstand the high cutting aluminium speed that the normal speed steel blade can’t. Same is the case with the router bits that only use carbide tipped bits and a speed router attachment to reduce the speed of the aluminium cutting machine.
Yes basically "GOOD" miter saw, I borrowed a bosh and used a 96 teeth finish blade like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-D1296N-12-I ... B00008WQ39

The "GOOD" comment above, you want a good quality miter saw that will actually cut square cuts, this is the one thing I had to try multiple times; cutting scrap wood until I was completely sure the machine was set up to cut the most accurate square cuts I could. If you have access to a hacker space or shop I am sure you can find the right equipment. Also look at some of the videos on youtube about cutting metal, basically you have to be more patient and cut slowly and with tender care ;). But other then that just making sure you cust and drill wholes are as square as possible. I uses a Drill press with X-Y table, This basically guaranteed that my bottom holes where align with each other as well as the top holes with each other and that bottom and top where square to each other.

Just take your time and experiment with scrap wood or metal and make sure you get the process right before cutting your final pieces.

The side plates are the original plates, just put extra holes to change where the idle belts wheels where mounted, to have the belts facing down and flat on the side extrusions.

LTMNO
Posts: 172
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:56 am

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by LTMNO » Thu Mar 28, 2013 6:31 pm

thanks for the advice and information... very well taken.
I just decided that i am not going to go big for my first build.
I am just going to order the stock with double y and test it out and then take it from there to build out the next version of it.
I will use Nema23's and upgrade the Z-axis.

That will be my stock machine. We have to learn to walk before we run. I read somewhere on the forum that you buy your first to make your second CNC machine.

I think it was this forum or perhaps another with the wood build CNC's.

Thanks again,

placing order now.
ShapeOko #1508, TinyG Controller, Dual Y, ACME Z-Axis, MeanWell(S-350-24v), NEMA 23's, 1m Squared t-slot table, OpenRail and the Original Z Makerslide and all Motor Plates...

LTMNO
Posts: 172
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:56 am

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by LTMNO » Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:00 pm

Well its done! I hope to join the RANKS of fellow CNC'rs in a few weeks.
Your order number is: 1847464854
I ordered the base unit with Dual-Y ( thanks Phil at Inventables )
I ordered the upgraded Z-Axis and Nema-23 Mounts. ( thanks IC )
I have the TinyG ( Thanks Riley )
I have 1000mm Cable Carriage as well ( Thanks China )

I just need to get the PowerSupply and I am set. ( Pre-Thanks to DigiKey who has the best shipping service to Canada ever for $8 no matter what )

I will build this out and test it to only later modify the X/Y/Z Axis.

I can't wait to say, "This is my ShapeOko, there are many like it, but this one is mine!" ( take no credit on this, i had a great chuckle reading it from another on this forum)

Oh and above all... Thanks to Edward for your Ingenuity!

I look forward to being a contributor to the forum.

Happy Easter Weekend all!
ShapeOko #1508, TinyG Controller, Dual Y, ACME Z-Axis, MeanWell(S-350-24v), NEMA 23's, 1m Squared t-slot table, OpenRail and the Original Z Makerslide and all Motor Plates...

LTMNO
Posts: 172
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:56 am

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by LTMNO » Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:03 pm

wlanfox wrote:
LTMNO wrote: But if you respond with some easy way of cutting them? then I am happy to build them myself.

Did you do something like this?
Cutting aluminum is an easy job, and you can use standard wood working tools with regular carbide blades. They can cut aluminium with precision using the normal wood working equipments. The cutting speed and precision of the wood working equipments are faster than the aluminium cutting machines. Hence, the lubricants are really helpful. If you wish to decrease the speed in which the machine performs metal cut, you can do so by reducing the diameter of the cutting blades.

For example, when you use a 10 inches table saw to cut aluminium plate, the speed of cutting aluminium can be much faster than you require. In order to decrease the speed, you can reduce the blade size to 7 ¼ inches. This helps in decreasing the speed of cutting aluminium by 27.5%.

The 7.25 inches blade rotates and cuts aluminum per revolution through the precision cut techniques. Moreover, carbide tipped blade can easily withstand the high cutting aluminium speed that the normal speed steel blade can’t. Same is the case with the router bits that only use carbide tipped bits and a speed router attachment to reduce the speed of the aluminium cutting machine.
Yes basically "GOOD" miter saw, I borrowed a bosh and used a 96 teeth finish blade like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-D1296N-12-I ... B00008WQ39

The "GOOD" comment above, you want a good quality miter saw that will actually cut square cuts, this is the one thing I had to try multiple times; cutting scrap wood until I was completely sure the machine was set up to cut the most accurate square cuts I could. If you have access to a hacker space or shop I am sure you can find the right equipment. Also look at some of the videos on youtube about cutting metal, basically you have to be more patient and cut slowly and with tender care ;). But other then that just making sure you cust and drill wholes are as square as possible. I uses a Drill press with X-Y table, This basically guaranteed that my bottom holes where align with each other as well as the top holes with each other and that bottom and top where square to each other.

Just take your time and experiment with scrap wood or metal and make sure you get the process right before cutting your final pieces.

The side plates are the original plates, just put extra holes to change where the idle belts wheels where mounted, to have the belts facing down and flat on the side extrusions.
I have a great Dewalt Miter. I used to do alot of Home Renovations... Hence the reason for this CNC to have my tinkering abilities again... ;-)
I am going to wait on the MakerSlide and X plates and just build the stock unit first... maybe in a few weeks they will be available and if not, I have a machine that could potentially do something... probably not.. but we will see...
ShapeOko #1508, TinyG Controller, Dual Y, ACME Z-Axis, MeanWell(S-350-24v), NEMA 23's, 1m Squared t-slot table, OpenRail and the Original Z Makerslide and all Motor Plates...

cvoinescu
Posts: 4442
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:50 pm
Location: Camberley, UK
Contact:

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by cvoinescu » Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:10 pm

LTMNO wrote:
cvoinescu wrote:I have open end plates for the eShapeOko, and they'll work on the ShapeOko too, but shipping them outside Europe is frightfully expensive.
Hi, I was looking at the eShapeOko, it looks amazing... love the modifications to it minus the Z axis motor mount(but that should be rectified with z-axis upgrade).

What is the damage to send to Canada? for God and Country. ;-) We are both from the Commonwealth.
Apologies for the delay. I can send the end plates alone for £12.60 airmail, £8.05 surface mail, or £22.20 FedEx "Economy". They weigh just under 1kg without the fasteners. I'm going to be in the US next week, so I can bring a set with me and mail them to you from Chicago. That should be cheaper than posting them from the UK.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

LTMNO
Posts: 172
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:56 am

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by LTMNO » Sat Apr 06, 2013 1:32 am

Sounds great. Monies sent.
ShapeOko #1508, TinyG Controller, Dual Y, ACME Z-Axis, MeanWell(S-350-24v), NEMA 23's, 1m Squared t-slot table, OpenRail and the Original Z Makerslide and all Motor Plates...

LTMNO
Posts: 172
Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:56 am

Re: Pre-Shapeoko #XXXX Build Log

Post by LTMNO » Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:26 pm

My Inventables Order has arrived..... I am waiting on Open Ended Plates from cvoinescu and then...
The build commences.
Stay tuned.
ShapeOko #1508, TinyG Controller, Dual Y, ACME Z-Axis, MeanWell(S-350-24v), NEMA 23's, 1m Squared t-slot table, OpenRail and the Original Z Makerslide and all Motor Plates...

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