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Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 4:01 pm
by LTMNO
CalebPeters wrote:Alright, so here's a rough diagram of my wiring setup. Below is a fairly high resolution image of the diagram, and also a link to the Visio file of the diagram itself.

Credit for the images of the C10 breakout board and DRV 8825 boards should go to CNC4PC.com and pololu.com

http://bobdylansays.com/wp-content/uplo ... ematic.zip

Image
Interesting. Thanks for posting. Did you add the 100u caps yourself? To filter noise?

Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 6:55 pm
by CalebPeters
LTMNO wrote:
Interesting. Thanks for posting. Did you add the 100u caps yourself? To filter noise?
I didn't come up with using the decoupling capacitors myself. pololu.com, the manufacturers of this particular stepper driver, recommends it. Here's an excerpt from their website talking about it specifically.
http://www.pololu.com/product/2133/ wrote: Power connections

The driver requires a motor supply voltage of 8.2 – 45 V to be connected across VMOT and GND. This supply should have appropriate decoupling capacitors close to the board, and it should be capable of delivering the expected stepper motor current.

Warning: This carrier board uses low-ESR ceramic capacitors, which makes it susceptible to destructive LC voltage spikes, especially when using power leads longer than a few inches. Under the right conditions, these spikes can exceed the 45 V maximum voltage rating for the DRV8825 and permanently damage the board, even when the motor supply voltage is as low as 12 V. One way to protect the driver from such spikes is to put a large (at least 47 µF) electrolytic capacitor across motor power (VMOT) and ground somewhere close to the board.

Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 8:44 pm
by LTMNO
CalebPeters wrote:
LTMNO wrote:
Interesting. Thanks for posting. Did you add the 100u caps yourself? To filter noise?
I didn't come up with using the decoupling capacitors myself. pololu.com, the manufacturers of this particular stepper driver, recommends it. Here's an excerpt from their website talking about it specifically.
http://www.pololu.com/product/2133/ wrote: Power connections

The driver requires a motor supply voltage of 8.2 – 45 V to be connected across VMOT and GND. This supply should have appropriate decoupling capacitors close to the board, and it should be capable of delivering the expected stepper motor current.

Warning: This carrier board uses low-ESR ceramic capacitors, which makes it susceptible to destructive LC voltage spikes, especially when using power leads longer than a few inches. Under the right conditions, these spikes can exceed the 45 V maximum voltage rating for the DRV8825 and permanently damage the board, even when the motor supply voltage is as low as 12 V. One way to protect the driver from such spikes is to put a large (at least 47 µF) electrolytic capacitor across motor power (VMOT) and ground somewhere close to the board.
Thanks, that is great to know.. i have my 4 drivers for my Beaglebone Cape.. and haven't set it up yet with Linux and LinuxCNC... I have to solder that all together still with the Bridge. I will be sure to add the Caps.

Cheers.

Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:28 pm
by CalebPeters
Here is a couple more videos of my ShapeOko in action.




Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 5:47 am
by janapriya
Nice work!. What are the bits you started with?

Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 5:54 pm
by CalebPeters
janapriya wrote:Nice work!. What are the bits you started with?
Since I pre-ordered my Shapeoko 2 I received a end mill starter set for free.

Here's a link to the set: https://www.inventables.com/technologie ... 8-in-shank

So far, I've only used the two flute straight flute one, but that has more to do with the type of materials that I have been cutting than anything else.

Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:47 am
by LTMNO
Hello Caleb,
Ironically, I have been searching the web for LinuxCNC and ShapeOko and all roads lead back to you..
I am going to read your blog from top to bottom and see if I can get this configuration figured out for my BeBoPr Cape for BeagleBone...
Keep up the great work!

Talk to you soon.

Pino

Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:26 pm
by CalebPeters
Well, I finally have something interesting again to post on my build log. After reading skipmcdonald's build log and seeing how cool the aluminum T-slot bed he purchase looked, I decided I needed one too. My original plan was to only use it for milling on aluminum parts, and that's basically why I chose to only get one of them, but I'm kind of regretting that now. I'm thinking that if I use 1/4 inch MDF as a waste board underneath any job that I need to cut through I should be able to get away with not mucking up the aluminum bed.

At any rate, here's a video showing off how it turned out.


The cam clamps that are in the video can be found here.
My thoughts on these clamps are that they work very well, as long as, you make sure they are well tightened.

As far as modifying the belt clips, it was very easy to use a grinding wheel to do the job, but as you can see in the video I didn't do the best job. With a little bit of thought I probably could have came up with a better solution for cutting them down to size. At any rate, they seem to work quite nicely, even if they don't look so nice.

Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:14 am
by janapriya
Caleb,

From where did you source hall effect sensors/magnets?

Thanks,

J.

Re: Caleb's Shapeoko 2 #3164

Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 2:19 pm
by CalebPeters
janapriya wrote:Caleb,

From where did you source hall effect sensors/magnets?

Thanks,

J.
My hall effect sensors came off of a THK actuator that I have, and the magnets I bought off Amazon.