Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

skipmcdonald
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Location: Dallas/Fort Worth Area, Texas, USA

Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by skipmcdonald » Sun Dec 22, 2013 7:02 pm

Shapeoko 2 #3181
The initial configuration is a standard mechanical kit assembled according to directions.
In addition the following were added.
Nema 17 stepper motors, 76 oz-in. High-torque 200 steps/revolution, single shaft with a flat
Protoneer Arduino CNC Shield V3.0,
4 Stepstick 4988's
Drimmel tool 15,000/35,000 rpm
GT2 belt
2 3d printed 20 tooth pulleys in PLA plastic (y motors)
1 surplus metal 20 tooth GT2 pulley (x motor)
12v surplus PC power supply with a power resister mod to ensure continuous/reliable power/voltage.
3d printed grbl enclosure with a fan mount in PLA plastic
3d printed mini-cable chain in PLA plastic

Upgrade
Misumi HFSQN4-15250-500 - 2 pieces replace the spoil boards and provide 8mm T-slot bed!
Image

The extrusions are available here:
http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/result/?K ... -15250-500

The clamping dial indicator in the above picture is from harbor freight and was invaluable in leveling the wood spoil boards in the original kit. here is a link to the tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-d ... 93051.html

Intended upgrades:
8825 drivers (on order but not received)
Nema 23 stepper motors, bipolar surplus
3 3d printed 20 tooth pulleys
3d Printed motor spacers/standoffs
4 x 1 meter Makerslides
Dewalt or similar trim router
24v power supply

I have completed assembly of the mechanical kit, adding 12mm screws for the bed because the ones in my kit labeled 12mm were actually 10mm and too short for that application. I had to tap the delryn nut with an 8mm tap in order for it to turn without excessive force. The rest of the build went smoothly just like the assembly instructions.
I pre-installed the x axis motor as suggested with a metal 20 tooth pulley I had left over from a reprap build.

I assembled the Arduino CNC Shield V 3.0 according to the instructions on the Protoneer site and configured the jumpers so that x,y, & a axes are 1/8 micro steps, z is 1/2 micro steps and slaved the A driver to the Y so each of the Y motors have their own driver but use the same step and direction pulses from the Arduino.

I installed the latest production windows 8 Arduino integrated development environment (IDE) in "My Programs" directory which installed the drivers for the Arduino as well.
Downloaded the GRBL source from the Protoneer site for GRBL 8c, and installed it as a library named GRBL like the directions on the Protoneer site suggested.

http://blog.protoneer.co.nz/arduino-cnc-shield/


I then compiled and flashed an Arduino UNO clone using the IDE and tested the install with the IDE terminal window. Upon connecting I got the expected prompt, and the $$ command listed its defaults. I changed several of the $ parameters to match my setup, 40.020 steps/mm for x and y and 320 steps/mm for Z, I put most of the parameters like the Shapeoko software section. With the exception of $6 which I set to 0.

I connected 4 stepper motors, and everything tested out fine with g commands except for direction which I fixed by powering off the board and flipping the connector (same effect as swapping one coil but doesn't require me to disassemble the connectors)

I then installed the motors into the Shapeoko and did a preliminary wire up using the existing motor leads. If I mount the Arduino on the carriage it makes a very close fit but since it's just a stop gap until i upgrade things it will work for now. The zip-ties etc. aren't intended to be permanent.

I installed a java RTE and the GRBL sender jar file. next I used it and jogged the axes around. I ran the hello world file and things seemed ok. But, further testing uncovered a problem with the Z axis. Everything was ok with the exception of the Z axis which buzzed and lost steps if it was moved more than 10mm at a time. I played around with the acceleration and seek rates until I settled on a seek of 750 and acceleration of 20 mm^2 which produced smooth motion on long seeks.

I will probably try the 9 beta GRBL that has different acceleration for each axis, since the settings above slow the y and x axes unnecessarily.

I'm ready to begin my first machining test to etch an 11x11 inch game board design into some hobby plywood, a sharpie run on paper ran/looks good. I designed the DXF using OpenScad using its 2d operations, generated the g-code using pycam in etch mode. Both programs are freely available open source projects.
Last edited by skipmcdonald on Thu May 08, 2014 2:24 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Shapeoko 2 #3181, Protoneer Arduino CNC Shield, Step-Stick 4988s, GRBL 9b+, All Aluminum Bed - Misumi HFSQN4-15250 extrusions, Dewalt DW611, Precision Think & Thinker, Collets.

WillAdams
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Re: Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by WillAdams » Sun Dec 22, 2013 7:34 pm

Sounds good! Does it look as good? Do you have links to the CAD files? esp. for the drag chain and enclosure?
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/ Carbide Compact Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Carbide 3D precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

skipmcdonald
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:31 pm
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth Area, Texas, USA

Re: Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by skipmcdonald » Wed Jan 08, 2014 6:18 pm

Shapeoko 2 #3181, Protoneer Arduino CNC Shield, Step-Stick 4988s, GRBL 9b+, All Aluminum Bed - Misumi HFSQN4-15250 extrusions, Dewalt DW611, Precision Think & Thinker, Collets.

skipmcdonald
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:31 pm
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth Area, Texas, USA

Re: Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by skipmcdonald » Wed Jan 08, 2014 7:18 pm

I am having a little problem with the bed being not quite level. Here are some images of a 45-degree v shaped bit 1/8 in carved game board in hobby plywood.

near the origin (lower left) the v-bit took the right amount of material and left a nice space between the circles.
https://db.tt/7DotsmqR

Away from the origin (upper right) the v-bit is in a touch too deep causing the space to be too narrow.
https://db.tt/KJlnGoUz

The gameboard is 12inx12in with an 11 in box engraved around 1/2 in from the outside and 16 double circles (4 x 4).
The game is called quarto.

Should I try to level the bed somehow? or is this what I should expect.
Last edited by skipmcdonald on Mon Mar 03, 2014 6:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Shapeoko 2 #3181, Protoneer Arduino CNC Shield, Step-Stick 4988s, GRBL 9b+, All Aluminum Bed - Misumi HFSQN4-15250 extrusions, Dewalt DW611, Precision Think & Thinker, Collets.

Will Winder
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Re: Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by Will Winder » Wed Jan 08, 2014 7:41 pm

I've noticed similar issues with my machine, especially with plywood. Double check that the machine itself is level, some people will surface the spoil-board to ensure that it is perfectly level to the machine, I ended up making a torsion box.

The plywood itself can also cause problems depending on how warped it is to begin with. I usually clamp sheets like this with long caul clamps running from one end to the other to spread the clamping pressure along the entire edge, even still there is often a high spot in the center or between clamps. Look at the board and try to position your clamps at the high spots, then don't over tighten them.

For a final sanity check you can manually set the spindle height so that the cutter is brushing against the surface of your material then drag it across to see if there are high spots.
ShapeOko #367: Dual-Y drive, Belt on outside, 1000mm Y-Axis, DW660 Spindle, Nema-23 X/Y motors.

Primary developer on Universal Gcode Sender.

danimal
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Location: Colorado

Re: Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by danimal » Fri Jan 10, 2014 1:46 am

I had problems with this for the longest time. What I had to do was first level the board to as close to perfectly level as possible. I built a support frame with adjustable feet to accomplish this. Then from there use your level each step of the way making sure that each piece of makerslide is as close to perfectly level and perfectly vertical as you can manage. For the original shapeoko there is a little play in the mounting bolt holes, and I assume the shapeoko 2 is the same way. Once you have this done then your difference in cutting depth will be held to the deviation tolerances of the makerslide itself and the v-wheels which in my experience is much less than what you are seeing.
Shapeoko # 1458

RT0701C Spindle || dual y motor || x axis nema23 with custom carriage 1000mm length || z axis nema23 linear rail upgrade with 1/2-10 ACME

twforeman
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Re: Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by twforeman » Fri Jan 10, 2014 2:11 pm

As others have stated, you can't just bolt it together and expect it to be level.

Here is my latest account of setting up my machine. I ended up using shims under my endplates to level the rails out.

http://timf.anansi-web.com/wp/shapeoko-rebuild/

I still have an axis squareness issue to chase down, but I'm doing real production work with my ShapeOko at the moment and I'm pretty happy with it.
Ender 3 3D Printer
ShapeOko v3 serial #0004 - upgrade thread
All of my ShapeOko related blog posts

skipmcdonald
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Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:31 pm
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth Area, Texas, USA

Re: Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by skipmcdonald » Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:37 pm

Upgrading the bed to all Aluminum T-slot was a simple matter. I had a choice to make, 6mm slot or 8mm slots, since the extrusion has both one on one side and one on the other. After doing some measuring the best solution is with the 8mm slots up. That way one of the holes in the end of the extrusion lines up perfectly with the existing end plate!! this makes the 500mm makerslide and 500mm bed perfectly aligned.



Tap 2 holes on each end.

Image
Image

One set of holes for the existing end bracket, and the other to fasten the ends together and to the 2020 bar in the center of the bed.
Insert two t-nuts into the 2020.
Make a bracket with 15mm hole spacing top to bottom and 20mm spacing side to side.
Edit: CORRECTION the spacing is actually 14.5mm x 21mm based on the CAD files from MISUMI
Drawing files for a 3d printed version are available linked below.
Attach the bracket with 4 8mm long M5 pan head bolts.

The small bracket ties the two parts to each other and the 2020 extrusion. It allows for precision alignment. Here are the files for the bracket:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/301 ... 0plate.stl
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/301 ... plate.scad

I clamped a board on top to keep the parts square and screwed everything down tight. (the old spoilboard or other thick MDF works nicely)
Care must be taken to make sure everything is flat and square, the corners and ends of the extrusions are a good indication done by sight and feel.
The fits are a tight but perfect. The dial indicator i used showed the bed very level so shims were not needed anywhere for my installation.

This was an easy upgrade. and actually helped square everything up since the extrusions are precision cut from Misumi, and are held in perfect registration by the stock endplates that came with the ShapeOko Kit. 8-)
Last edited by skipmcdonald on Fri Apr 25, 2014 9:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Shapeoko 2 #3181, Protoneer Arduino CNC Shield, Step-Stick 4988s, GRBL 9b+, All Aluminum Bed - Misumi HFSQN4-15250 extrusions, Dewalt DW611, Precision Think & Thinker, Collets.

skipmcdonald
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:31 pm
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth Area, Texas, USA

Re: Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by skipmcdonald » Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:43 pm

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/301 ... ko%20b.JPG

picture of the new bed. the Leveling problems mentioned above are fixed as well now.
Shapeoko 2 #3181, Protoneer Arduino CNC Shield, Step-Stick 4988s, GRBL 9b+, All Aluminum Bed - Misumi HFSQN4-15250 extrusions, Dewalt DW611, Precision Think & Thinker, Collets.

skipmcdonald
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:31 pm
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth Area, Texas, USA

Re: Skip's Shapeoko 2 #3181

Post by skipmcdonald » Tue Mar 18, 2014 3:00 pm

Upgraded Spindle: Dewalt 611 router, using scratch designed 3d printed bracket.

I created and fit 3 different brackets, this is the one I settled on:

Image

Used 3 M5 nyloc nuts and 3 M5 bolts

here are links to the Openscad and stl files:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/301 ... acket.scad
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/301 ... racket.stl

The Dewalt 611 router is a bit heavy but has a lot of power!

Image
Shapeoko 2 #3181, Protoneer Arduino CNC Shield, Step-Stick 4988s, GRBL 9b+, All Aluminum Bed - Misumi HFSQN4-15250 extrusions, Dewalt DW611, Precision Think & Thinker, Collets.

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