will1384's Shapeoko 2

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will1384
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:48 am

will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by will1384 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:57 am

I have been planing to get, and ordering parts for the Shapeoko 2, since November of last year, I ordered the mechanical kit because I already had stuff left over from a small DIY CNC router.

I plan on upgrading the Shapeoko 2 to 60x60 inches / 1524x1524 millimeters, I planed on doubling all the rails, but I may also add a piece 20mm X 40mm extrusion between the two MakerSlide rails, I also plan on adding 2 Motor Mounts, one extra on each side of the Y-axis rails, that will allow me to use extra Delrin Dual V Wheels to help support the long X-axis rail.

I also plan on getting NEMA 23 Z-Axis Kit / Acme Upgrade, NEMA 23 motors, and a better control box for them, I just finished the grblShield based control box, and have a more powerful Chinese TB6560 based control box that came from a small CNC mill, I had to do a lot of repairs and fixes, it was working but the design was "potentially self destructive" :lol: but it was cheap on eBay.

I plan on using the Shapeoko 2 unmodified to get a feel for it, and to give me a little more time to acquire parts.

will1384
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:48 am

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by will1384 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 4:38 am

Part (1) The table.

I have a small 14x20 workshop, its mostly used for welding and metalworking, and it's where I store metal hardware, power tools and such, I also had my DIY CNC router in there, I had to do a lot of cleaning and rearranging to find a spot for a 60x60 inch CNC table to fit.

I looked around on the Internet for Ideas and found a product called "2x4 Basics Workbench Kit" but the workbench legs that come with it are "structural resin" and I wanted something stronger so I used 4 inch angle iron.

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I welded 1-1/4 pipe to a plate and bolted a roller to it for each leg, the pipe screws into a pipe coupler I welded to the angle iron.

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I can use a pipe wrench to level each leg.

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I made a wall like structure from 2x4 lumber, I used screws and pre-drilled.

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I used 1/4-20 bolts to attach the legs to the 2x4 lumber.

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I made the table high enough to straddle my angle iron and pipe storage.

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I used scrap OSB for the bottom shelf.

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This table top is 1 inch plywood, and I got two 60x30 MDF office table tops I plan on installing.

It was about this time that I discovered water dripping onto the table from the ceiling, its in a metal building, and there are sheets of insulation on the walls and ceiling, but warm air was leaking threw the cracks between the insulation sheets and hitting the cold metal and forming condensation, I had to use spray foam and duct tape to seal every crack, and ended up straining my back pretty good :cry:

will1384
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:48 am

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by will1384 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:35 am

Part (2) The Control Box.

I had a lot of old metal boxes from junk electronic equipment I disassemble so I reused one of them for the enclosure.

I used:

(4) 4 Contacts, 4 Pins, Aviation Plugs, size M16 --- for the Stepper Motor plugs
(1) 4 Contacts, 4 Pins, Aviation Plug, size M12 --- for the Limit switch plug
(1) Red, Arcade Push Button --- Reset
(1) Orange, Arcade Push Button --- Reset / Abort
(1) Yellow, Arcade Push Button --- Feed Hold
(1) Green, Arcade Push Button --- Cycle Start / Resume
(1) Arduino Screw Shield v2 --- Makes it easy to wire
(1) 24v 6.5A Potrans power supply --- Was from my last CNC Router
(1) 24v Fan
(1) Emergency Stop Push Button
(1) Toggle Switch - Removed from junk electronic equipment
(1) Indicator Light - Removed from junk electronic equipment
(3) metal standoffs --- Could only use three safely, next time I will get nylon standoffs
(6) Red Fiber Washer --- To insulate the Arduino from the metal standoffs
(3) Aluminum Heat sinks made for XBOX 360
(1) USB Panel Mount Connector

Here are a few images

This is the grblShield plugged into the Arduino Screw Shield and Arduino UNO

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View from the bottom.

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This is the rats nest of wires I have to work with :shock:

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I used a metal enclosure that only the back opened up, so I had to mount everything onto a metal plate, and then bolt it to bottom of the enclosure, was not easy fitting everything inside.

Here is the front, my significant other kept joking and asking were you put the quarters ;)

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And the back, there is a RCA connector installed that I was going to use for ether a touch plate or E-Stop but I have not attached it to anything yet.

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Here is the wiring diagram for Power,

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** I changed this wiring diagram, I should have had the gShield (GND) going to (-V) **

I ended up using the barrier strip differently than the above wiring diagram, but its still wired the same.

Here is an image of the the new wiring.

Image

This is the wiring diagram for switches and stepper motors, I have double checked my work with an Ohmmeter and it looks good, but I will check it again before I power it up.

Image

I still have to wire up some stepper motors for a test, will do that the next few days, keeping my fingers crossed :?

***Edited 01-28-2014*** to clean up, and to correct wiring errors.
Last edited by will1384 on Wed Jan 29, 2014 3:34 am, edited 2 times in total.

cvoinescu
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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by cvoinescu » Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:09 pm

This is a really impressive set-up! A lot of time went into making that table, and the electronics are very neat. I like it very much.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

will1384
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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by will1384 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:46 pm

cvoinescu wrote:This is a really impressive set-up! A lot of time went into making that table, and the electronics are very neat. I like it very much.
Thanks

I thought about buying a table but the cost was to high, so I made a table from scrap angle iron and wood left over from building a small workshop for my dad, I could have used angle iron for the entire table but I don't have any help lifting things and I thought it would be to heavy to work with, so I used 2x4s, even the 2x4s were so heavy I was barely able to lift it into place, and I had to use saw horses to hold it up until I got the legs on.

I wanted to cover the top of the table with MDF, but I did not have any good scrap pieces of MDF, so I was going to get some at a local hardware store, but then I started thinking about alternatives, I found two 60x30 office desks with metal legs, got them cheap at an auction for like $10 each, and the tops were made from MDF.

I used Microsoft paint to make the wiring diagrams, I wanted a reference to help check my work, and it will help later if I make modifications.

I have used arcade push buttons before, the last CNC Control Box I made used a red arcade push button for an E-Stop, but it just triggered Pin 10 on the C10 breakout board, not the safest E-Stop but it never failed, and I used it more than a few times, but the idea to use all the arcade push buttons like I did was inspired by this page:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Yo ... C-Pendant/

I have a few ideas I am thinking about, one is remote shutdown using something like a remote car starter, and using a web cam to watch the CNC Router, another is a wired remote E-Stop Pendant that kills power to the router / spindle and triggers E-Stop to the Control Box, but all that is later ;)

WillAdams
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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by WillAdams » Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:22 pm

will1384 wrote:I used Microsoft paint to make the wiring diagrams, I wanted a reference to help check my work, and it will help later if I make modifications.
Wow.

You really should look at using a vector drawing program instead --- you can still export a pixel map if you need, but the modifications are much easier.
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/ Carbide Compact Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Carbide 3D precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

cvoinescu
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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by cvoinescu » Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:25 pm

You'd be surprised how useful Paint is, in its simplicity. I use it a lot for diagrams too, when I can't be bothered with a vector program. Not the easiest to edit, I agree, so it's good only for one-offs, but, for me at least, it's often much quicker.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

will1384
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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by will1384 » Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:35 pm

WillAdams wrote:
will1384 wrote:I used Microsoft paint to make the wiring diagrams, I wanted a reference to help check my work, and it will help later if I make modifications.
Wow.

You really should look at using a vector drawing program instead --- you can still export a pixel map if you need, but the modifications are much easier.

Its kinda like imperial vs metric, I grew up with imperial measurements and its easy and quick for me to use, but with metric I often need to convert, and am not to good with it, I have been using Microsoft paint for about 16 + or - years, and its easy for me to use, I often enjoy zooming in and drawing at the pixel level, I can use Inkscape, but it seems like its much more complicated to use, and I often only use it to enlarge something, I will ether draw something in Microsoft paint or scan something, then use Inkscape to vector and enlarge it, then export to back to bitmap, then edit with Microsoft paint or Paint.NET, I would like to do it all in Inkscape but I have just not learned how yet.

It kinda the same way with GIMP and Photoshop, I have both, but learned to use GIMP first and now when I try to use Photoshop is just strange and frustrating so I go back to GIMP.

I tried installing the 60x30 office table tops on the CNC table, I ran into two problems, one problem is that one of the table tops is warped, the other is that the table tops are slightly smaller without the trim, LOL did not even thank about that, and I had removed some of the trim to butt the table tops together, another thing I dislike, I found out that its not MDF its particle board, I may not use the office table tops.

Gadgetman!
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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by Gadgetman! » Fri Jan 24, 2014 8:34 am

Nice setup, and awesome table.

But there may be a small error in one of Your drawings.
The two parallell-connected steppers is on the Y-axis, right?
Unless the SO2 design is radically different from the old SO1 design, those two are mounted opposite each other and one of them needs to be reversed.
Weird guy...
Shapeoko 2014F: 1000mm X/Y, 300W Quiet Cut spindle, Arduino Uno/G-shield and GRBL 0.9i
15x30 drag chains, custom spindle mount, 9mm belts, 8mm endplates, 6mm motor plates.

cvoinescu
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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by cvoinescu » Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:35 am

Gadgetman! wrote:But there may be a small error in one of Your drawings.
The two parallell-connected steppers is on the Y-axis, right?
Unless the SO2 design is radically different from the old SO1 design, those two are mounted opposite each other and one of them needs to be reversed.
They seem correct now, so maybe he changed the image.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

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