will1384's Shapeoko 2

ajacocks
Posts: 35
Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2014 7:14 pm

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by ajacocks » Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:23 pm

will,

Your limit switch setup looks very professional, and I was thinking of borrowing it, for my S2.

What model and manufacturer switches did you use? I couldn't find them, in this thread.

Thanks!
- Alex
Shapeoko 2 #3250

will1384
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:48 am

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by will1384 » Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:42 pm

cvoinescu wrote:That is a good print, especially considering what your extruder is. The artifacts you see on the flat faces most likely come from the teeth of the drive wheel -- even if your stepper rotates evenly, the wheel, with its relatively large teeth, advances the filament unevenly. You also see some vibration artifacts next to the corners.
Yea the Shapeoko 2 is sliding around on the table, also ether the bed or Extruder is not perfectly level, I am still shocked the parts look as good as they do, I have noticed on big parts that are hollow with thin walls like fan ducts, the filament sometimes sags or does not go or stay were it should.

will1384
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:48 am

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by will1384 » Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:55 pm

ajacocks wrote:will,

Your limit switch setup looks very professional, and I was thinking of borrowing it, for my S2.

What model and manufacturer switches did you use? I couldn't find them, in this thread.

Thanks!
- Alex
I believe I got them on eBay over here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400619957434

Specification:
Overall Size 20 x 6.5 x 13.5mm / 0.79" x 0.26" x 0.53" (L*W*H)
Mounting Hole Dia. 2mm / 0.08"
Mounting Hole Spacing 10mm / 0.39"
Pin Pitch 7 x 9mm / 0.28" x 0.35"
Lever Arm Size 17 x 4mm / 0.67" x 0.16" (L*W)

I used M3 screws, but had to drill the holes out in the switches, I did not have 2mm screws, one or two switches broke when drilling the holes out.

will1384
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:48 am

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by will1384 » Tue Apr 08, 2014 6:22 am

Someone had been nice enough to take a M8 threaded rod and try turning it down to 6mm for me, but I could never get the wobble out of the Z-Axis, so I went an ordered the Z-Axis upgrade and installed it.

Top is the regular Shapeoko 2 M8 threaded rod.
Middle is the M8 threaded rod with one end turned down to 6mm.
Bottom is the 3/8" acme screw that comes with the Z-Axis upgrade.

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Putting it together went pretty fast.

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I did something like shown in this forum post:

http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic ... 7&start=10

I took the two top plates and bolted them together so I could use one of the plates as a template for drilling a hole.

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Then drilled the hole and cut the plate, I also drilled a hole in one of the spacers included with the Z-Axis upgrade.

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Here it is installed

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Works just fine with my Bosch Colt.

Image

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wz9v
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:08 pm

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by wz9v » Tue Apr 08, 2014 2:14 pm

How did you cut the top plate down?

I have to do the same thing to gain clearance for my Makita.
Shapeoko 2 - Mechanical kit 4731
Z-Axis Acme Screw Upgrade / Makita RT0701C / Re-enforced Y and X-Axis / External Belts on Y / Extrusion work top

will1384
Posts: 80
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:48 am

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by will1384 » Tue Apr 08, 2014 7:35 pm

wz9v wrote:How did you cut the top plate down?

I have to do the same thing to gain clearance for my Makita.
I used a bandsaw, but it still came out a little off, I have an 4" x 6" band saw that I got from Harbor Freight, I try to keep it squared up, but after a few months it starts to cut crooked again, I guess I need to spend some time squaring it up again.

A vice and hacksaw should work, maybe a jigsaw, just go slow, and cut along a marked line.

wz9v
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:08 pm

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by wz9v » Tue Apr 08, 2014 7:55 pm

A hacksaw or cutoff wheel was how I was thinking of going.
Shapeoko 2 - Mechanical kit 4731
Z-Axis Acme Screw Upgrade / Makita RT0701C / Re-enforced Y and X-Axis / External Belts on Y / Extrusion work top

Threefer
Posts: 24
Joined: Mon Dec 23, 2013 6:02 pm

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by Threefer » Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:15 pm

wz9v wrote:How did you cut the top plate down?

I have to do the same thing to gain clearance for my Makita.
I used the dremel clone that came with the full kit. It came with enough grinding disks to get the job done.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
---------------------------------------------------
Shapeoko# 3456, Makita RT0701c. Stock size for now but have 13"x13" travel by trimming down belt clamps and lip on smooth idler. Dovetailed wooden track clamping setup. Dust shoe in works.

SlickShoez
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:08 pm

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by SlickShoez » Wed Apr 09, 2014 3:57 am

will1384 wrote: It leaves very little room to travel

So this is what I did

I did still move the carriage down like the blog post said, I moved it down to 2.5 inches above the table.


I've got the colt as well and was wondering about this! That makes a lot of sense, so I may do the same! Thanks!

sectorix
Posts: 46
Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2014 9:44 pm

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Post by sectorix » Tue Aug 26, 2014 4:39 am

will1384 wrote:Part (4) wiring.

I spent a few hours today trying to figure out how the current limit is set on the grblShield, one way is to just "tune it in"
I did that on my last CNC router, it worked but I never liked doing that.

Here is the page on that.

https://github.com/synthetos/grblShield ... grblShield

So I downloaded a few PDF files:

This the the PDF on the DRV8818

http://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/drv8818

and here for the grblShield schematic

https://github.com/synthetos/grblShield ... _schematic

From what I can see you need the know the VREF, and from the grblShield schematic it looks like the VREF goes directly to (pin 2) of the potentiometers.

When reading the DRV8818 PDF, it gives you this example, using a (0.22 Ohm) resistor, and a VREF pin showing (3.3v)

8 x 0.22 = 1.76


3.3 / 1.76 = 1.875 Amps

And grblShield uses the DRV8818 chip and (0.1 Ohm) resistors, so calculating the voltage should be

8 x 0.1 = 0.8


now use the (0.8) with the VREF voltage, lets say you measured (1.5v) with the volt meter

1.5 / 0.8 = 1.875 Amps


I made up an image to help me

Image

I got my NEMA17 motors from inventables, and the page here:

https://www.inventables.com/technologie ... or-nema-17

shows "Current / Phase 1.68 A"

so I think I would need 1.3v on VREF

1.3 / 0.8 = 1.625


Is this correct?

I am going to finish wiring up the stepper motors and testing the CNC control box tonight, lets hope I don't let the smoke out of it :shock: LOL
Sorry for the non-electrician questions, but 'm trying to figure out how to set mine. same nema17 motors and a grblShield. can you show me a diagram that explains the settings ? I dont understand how to dial it.

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