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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:03 am
by will1384
I finished most of it today :D

I had a bad Z Axis wobble, so I replaced the nuts, and added washers, no help, I then started looking for other solutions, I traced back the problem to the flexible coupler, and the wobble is dependent on how tight or lose the flexible coupler is on the M8 threaded rod, I was able to remove a lot by not tightening it down so tight, later I may try Teflon tape or something to add to the thickness of the threaded rod.

This video shows how bad it was :
https://picasaweb.google.com/1113484813 ... 9808079394

I already had a Bosch Colt CNC Mount, but I noticed that Inventables had one out so I decided to try it, it's almost no different from the one I had, both mount in the same way, but the Inventables mount had some left over metal that I had to file down on the inside of the hole were the router goes, and one of the screw holes I had to clean with a M5 metric tap before it would accept the screws that shipped with the mount.

When I tried mounting the Inventables mount like this page shows:

http://blog.inventables.com/2014/01/bos ... mount.html

It leaves very little room to travel

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So this is what I did

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I did still move the carriage down like the blog post said, I moved it down to 2.5 inches above the table.

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:14 am
by will1384
I got all the Limit switches working and I can make it home, here is a video of the homing cycle:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113484813 ... 1689262850

and some images to show the wiring and limit switches.

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I also made an updated Limit Switch wiring diagram

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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:47 pm
by will1384
will1384 wrote: I had a bad Z Axis wobble, so I replaced the nuts, and added washers, no help, I then started looking for other solutions, I traced back the problem to the flexible coupler, and the wobble is dependent on how tight or lose the flexible coupler is on the M8 threaded rod, I was able to remove a lot by not tightening it down so tight, later I may try Teflon tape or something to add to the thickness of the threaded rod.

This video shows how bad it was :
https://picasaweb.google.com/1113484813 ... 9808079394
Turns out that the M8 threaded rod is not 8mm, its just slightly less, around 7.8 + or -, and the flexible coupler has an 8mm hole, so you need to make the end of the threaded rod 8mm, what I did is to wrap the end of the threaded rod with Teflon tape, I measured and out 22 centimeters of Teflon tape and cut with scissors, them carefully wrapped it onto the end of the M8 threaded rod, making sure its even and unwrinkled, and now its almost perfect, have a look:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113484813 ... 7653411826


*UPDATE*
I went and tried to cut some wood clamps, and when under load the Teflon tape slipped, so now I have to rethink my strategy :( I am going to try again with the Teflon tape, and tighten it down a little more.

What I need is a 8mm threaded rod with the last half inch, or maybe centimeter, unthreaded.



I also took a few more images of the limit switches:

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Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 4:03 pm
by CrazyBillybob
will,

Do you know anyone that has a lathe? or have a machine shop close? It would only take a few minutes to turn down one end of that threaded Rod. If you do you' ll want to take a few m8 nuts with you so that they can chuck up the rod without buggering up the threads.

If not maybe someone here on the SO forums could help.


CBB

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 4:49 pm
by twforeman
Since teflon is slippery, that's not the best choice for shimming.

Cut up an aluminum pop can into strips and use that. Pop cans make great shim material.

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:19 pm
by Nigel K Tolley
twforeman wrote:Since teflon is slippery, that's not the best choice for shimming.
That's classic understatement. PTFE (Teflon) is about the slipperyest material known to man.

You could perhaps use a drop of gasket sealant once things are aligned, or even threadlock if you are certain.


Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 10:17 pm
by will1384
twforeman wrote:Since teflon is slippery, that's not the best choice for shimming.

Cut up an aluminum pop can into strips and use that. Pop cans make great shim material.
I tried using some aluminum cut from a pie tin, one strip was not enough, two was to much.
Nigel K Tolley wrote:
twforeman wrote:Since teflon is slippery, that's not the best choice for shimming.
That's classic understatement. PTFE (Teflon) is about the slipperyest material known to man.

You could perhaps use a drop of gasket sealant once things are aligned, or even threadlock if you are certain.


Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
The only thing that seemed to help with the Z-Axis wobble is to center the M8 threaded rod the best you can in the middle of the flanged bearing and tightening down both M8 Nuts, I may try to use aluminum foil strips between the M8 threaded rod and the inside of the flanged bearing.

I ran into another problem, the vibration from the Bosch Colt router I use, caused the nuts on the V-Wheels to come off, I am going to have to find some lock nuts.

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 3:48 am
by gmfoster
will1384 wrote:
twforeman wrote:Since teflon is slippery, that's not the best choice for shimming.

Cut up an aluminum pop can into strips and use that. Pop cans make great shim material.
I tried using some aluminum cut from a pie tin, one strip was not enough, two was to much.
Nigel K Tolley wrote:
twforeman wrote:Since teflon is slippery, that's not the best choice for shimming.
That's classic understatement. PTFE (Teflon) is about the slipperyest material known to man.

You could perhaps use a drop of gasket sealant once things are aligned, or even threadlock if you are certain.


Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
The only thing that seemed to help with the Z-Axis wobble is to center the M8 threaded rod the best you can in the middle of the flanged bearing and tightening down both M8 Nuts, I may try to use aluminum foil strips between the M8 threaded rod and the inside of the flanged bearing.

I ran into another problem, the vibration from the Bosch Colt router I use, caused the nuts on the V-Wheels to come off, I am going to have to find some lock nuts.

Just use locktite or super glue...

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 3:59 am
by will1384
When I thought I had fried my power supply I ordered a 24v, 10Amp, power supply, the one I had been using was 24v, 6.5Amp, I just today installed it.

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And I changed the Y-Axis output to 2Amps, I tried 2.5Amps but it felt way to hot, and the thermal tape pad holding the heatsink started to come off, I may have to replace with the thermal tape pad with Thermal Adhesive glue.

Re: will1384's Shapeoko 2

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:42 pm
by Gadgetman!
Instead of Teflon or strips out of a pop-can, try using aluminium tape.