Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Posts: 1250
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:40 pm
Location: Dixon, IL

Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by edwardrford » Fri Apr 04, 2014 2:34 pm

It's been a while since I've posted anything about my own Shapeoko 2. Mainly because well... I haven't used my S2 in quite a while. But, with all the lurking I do on the forum, seeing everyone's great builds and projects, I figured it's time for me to get moving on my own machine. I'm also working on documenting the direct wiring option, so I needed to tear my machine apart anyway as I had it wired up with option #3 since the beginning.

So.. here we go:

First up:
I really liked @skipmcdonald's idea to use the HFSQN4-15250-500 for a t-slot table. I went ahead and ordered 2 from misumi. While I was there, I also ordered 1 piece of HFSQN4-1050-500. This is a 50mm wide piece of flat extrusion. I wanted to cover the entire 550mm width of the platform. Really for no reason at all other than aesthetics. more on that later.

Here's my machine after removing the stock wasteboard. it looks pretty pathetic sitting there on the floor like that:
DSC06537.jpg (58.81 KiB) Viewed 3755 times
Because the distance between slots is 30mm, regular misumi double brackets won't work to connect the front/back extrusions with the aluminum plate. I opted instead to use single brackets.
DSC06534.jpg (56.55 KiB) Viewed 3755 times
But ran out, so I just used 1 slot of some double brackets I had laying around:
DSC06538.jpg (50 KiB) Viewed 3755 times
Once I had everything loosely fitted up, I started squaring the table. To do so, I used the piece of 50mm flat extrusion as a hard edge, and my combination square for the other. Basically just pushing everything into the positive stops and tightening down the screws with the other hand. I was really happy with the results:
DSC06539.jpg (54.96 KiB) Viewed 3755 times
DSC06542.jpg (38.66 KiB) Viewed 3755 times

After everything was square and tight, I dropped the machine back onto the base and started squaring that up.
DSC06543.jpg (74.83 KiB) Viewed 3755 times

Despite my natural inclination for symmetry, I chose to flush the machine with the left edge of the base. I had three fold reasoning for doing so:
1.) It would be easier to not have to measure from both sides
2.) The two pieces of extrusion, now acting as the work surface, when butted together have a pretty sizable flat spot right in the middle. Lots of times I like to put a clamp on the left, right, top middle and bottom middle. The flat spot looked like it would prevent me from putting a clamp right in the middle. Offsetting it should the middle section accessible for clamping.
3.) Having a wider area on one side of the machine will give a nice flat area for a cable chain to ride, if I decide to go that route.

In the end, I'm happy with the choice. Squaring the machine itself was really easy with the left edges flush.
DSC06544.jpg (35.25 KiB) Viewed 3755 times
All in all, it was a pretty productive evening. Tonight I'll be wiring (and documenting).

It's a bit of a chicken and egg scenario though: I need my machine to cut an enclosure I designed for the electronics. BUT, I need my electronics wired before I can cut the enclosure....

As an stop gap measure, I'm just going to print one of these:
temp_mount.png (261.94 KiB) Viewed 3755 times
If you're curious, here is the enclosure I am working on:
bootstrap_enclosure_iso.png (282.28 KiB) Viewed 3755 times
bootstrap_enclosure_mounted.png (190.59 KiB) Viewed 3755 times
Shapeoko 1 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 2 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 3 #2 - Stock

Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 12:10 pm
Location: Jamaica

Re: Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by noproblem » Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:24 pm


Its unbelievable that i am taking the same approach, however i think i was ahead of you :roll: :lol:

I got 2 sheets HFSQN4-15250-500 and 2 lengths HFSQN4-1050-500

Since i dont have my ShapeOko 2 Yet, i need to wait to make the single brackets mount. Once i get my ShapeOko 2 i will update you as to my progress

Here is my log with updates (wanted to get ahead prior to my shapeoko arrival)

http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic ... 659#p23659


Posts: 1250
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:40 pm
Location: Dixon, IL

Re: Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by edwardrford » Mon Apr 07, 2014 2:46 pm

regarding the wiring: There is good news and bad news
- Good news: It's finished, and I think it looks nice. I took a lot of pictures.
- Bad news: I forgot to put the SD card back into the camera after I posted my pictures last week. Seriously. Talk about feeling like a stooge. Now i'll have to decide if i'm going to tear my setup apart, or go some other route to make the the documentation.

Regarding the actual build:
I did a lot of things wrong, but in the end the machine was no worse for the wear.

Wrong #1:
When I did the wiring for the Y axis, I used a small piece of heat shrink tubing each pair of joined wires. I figured this would give them a little stress relief and help prevent them from being pulled apart. However, When i did the wiring, I forgot to swap one pair of wires. So.. when I went to run the machine, the gantry moved in two different directions! My move was only 5mm, so nothing terrible happened to the machine, but it set me back about an hour to re-do just those two pair. (remember I shrunk them together?)

Wrong #2:
I'm still amazed that this didn't blow up my setup, but I wired the +/- backwards to the gshield! When I turned the power on (to run a test), I heard what sounded like an electrical clicking (I just made that term up) noise. I quickly hit the switch and re-checked the wires. Yep.. backwards. Not knowing what damage was done, I decided to just swap them and give it another try. Low and behold: the gshield powered on and everything worked just fine. I think the root cause of the problem was me looking at everything upside down! I was leaning over the machine when I screwed in the power leads.

Once all of that was straightened out and I had the machine moving with UGS 1.7, I started wondering about a spindle. I have a large stash of them from all the testing I've done over the past several years. Everything from the included spindle (several of those actually) to a porter cable 450, like this one:
porter-cable-450.jpg (24.54 KiB) Viewed 3637 times
After much deliberation, I decided to try something that I wanted to do a few years ago but never got around to: Mount the motor of a flex wand to the back of the machine and loop the wand up to the z-axis carriage.
spindle_mounted.jpg (223.72 KiB) Viewed 3637 times
I had to print a set of mounts for the 1" OD handpiece, and a couple of straps to mount the motor itself to the back end plate. I think they turned out OK, but will definitely redo them in HDPE or UHMW if I decide to keep this setup.
spindle_straps.jpg (208.34 KiB) Viewed 3637 times
I have used this spindle before, and didn't mind it too much.

The problems that I remember are:
- The arc of the whip has a large effect on performance and keeping it in a nice upside down U shape is difficult to do.
- It has a regular drill chuck, that although convenient didn't do the best job keeping the bits seated.
- The motor occasionally didn't power on... not sure what that's all about :-)
- Only holds up to 1/8" bit

Like I said, a pretty good weekend in terms of assembling the machine. I'm really happy with how the wiring turned out (I'll take some closeups and post them the next time I'm by the machine).

Next up: Cut the electronics enclosure!

Shapeoko 1 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 2 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 3 #2 - Stock

Posts: 36
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 3:15 am

Re: Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by NakedWoodturner » Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:01 pm


I have a Foredom SR that I'm using for my spindle and just hang it on a hook above the machine with enough play for it to reach the extremes The problem I've found with any big or tight bend in the flex shaft is more heat build up and it will chatter. If you end up with too tight a bend for even a short period of time it will melt the housing and you'll be sourcing another flex shaft. DAMHIKT. The only limitation is that if you expand beyond the length of the flex but I don't see me doing that anytime soon.

Shapeoko 2 Full Kit - Foredom SR Spindle - Home/Limit Switches (XYZ+) - Aluminum C-Channel Y-Gantry Shields - Arcade Control and Enclosure

Up Next:
Spindle / Vac relays
Isolated Limit Switches
Dust Shoe

Damnit Jim, I'm a woodworker, not an EE.

Posts: 230
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:29 pm

Re: Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by Enraged » Mon Apr 07, 2014 6:04 pm

What spindle is that? It looks like a nice option

Posts: 8618
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:11 pm
Location: Pennsylvania --- south of the Turnpike, East of US-15

Re: Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by WillAdams » Mon Apr 07, 2014 6:11 pm

edwardrford wrote: - The arc of the whip has a large effect on performance and keeping it in a nice upside down U shape is difficult to do.
Why not mount the motor upside down, hanging over the machine? Isn't that the usual mode for this sort of rig?

Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/ Carbide Compact Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Carbide 3D precision collets

Posts: 1250
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:40 pm
Location: Dixon, IL

Re: Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by edwardrford » Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:17 pm

I could hang it up above the machine... that seems too easy :-)

Shapeoko 1 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 2 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 3 #2 - Stock

Posts: 1250
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:40 pm
Location: Dixon, IL

Re: Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by edwardrford » Tue Apr 08, 2014 8:27 pm

Here are the pictures of my wiring setup.

I started by cutting 3 x 3ft lengths of shielded 4 conductor cable (the type that ships with the full kit). Then stripping and soldering the ends onto the stepper leads. I covered each solder joint with a small piece of heat shrink tubing. This provides both strain relief and covers the bare wire to help prevent any sort of accidental shorting. For reference: 3/32" heat shrink is a perfect fit.

To further provide strain relief, All solder joints are fixed to the Y axis motor mount plate via zipties.
DSC06561.jpg (68.37 KiB) Viewed 3515 times
DSC06560.jpg (51.73 KiB) Viewed 3515 times

This way, when the gantry is moving positive and negative the part of the wire that was soldered isn't being pulled or pushed.

The X and Z wires are just routed through a piece of 1/4" expandable braiding that I had laying around (It may have come with the kit?). It was just long enough to make it from the gantry carriage to the Y motor mount plate.

For the Y axis motor that is on the opposite side as the bundle, I routed the leads through the makerslide and then soldered the gray wire on.

Despite my best efforts of searching, I was unable to locate the large expandable braiding that came with the kit. Being resourceful, I simply ziptied all of the wires together (roughly every 2-3 inches) then wrapped the bundle in a piece of spiral wrap that I had found while searching for the expandable braiding. Spiral wrap isn't really my thing, but it worked pretty well and I don't' think it looks half bad.
DSC06563.jpg (69.65 KiB) Viewed 3515 times
For the actual attaching of wires to the gshield, I ended up printing an arduino mount as I anticipated. It was flimsy and didnt' fit exactly right, but it will work as a stop gap measure until I get the enclosure cut. I routed the wires down from the top, between the printed piece and the end plate. This gave me a few points to zip tie the bundle, and made for a little cleaner appearance.
wired.jpg (239.76 KiB) Viewed 3515 times
In retrospect, I should have mounted the gshield so the terminals were facing out. So either on the other end plate OR upside down from what it is shown. Again.. it's a stopgap.

For now, I am happy with the setup. Last night i compiled the latest GRBL edge (0.9d) and hope it get it flashed tonight. I tried for a while last night but couldn't get xloader to push it across. I fear I may have to get the programmer out, which means I'll need to remove the gshield.. not sure if there's enough wire to remove the gshield without requiring me to unscrew some of the terminals.
Shapeoko 1 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 2 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 3 #2 - Stock

Posts: 40
Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2014 11:49 pm

Re: Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by awesomename » Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:06 pm


Try Cableorganizer.com.
They have the best pricing and selection of really high quality cable sleeving, 3:1 shrink wrap and other stuff.

Posts: 1250
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:40 pm
Location: Dixon, IL

Re: Edward's S2 Buildlog (rebuild log)

Post by edwardrford » Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:51 pm

Did a little bit of work over the weekend on the machine. Last week my progress was completely derailed due to a spurt of design improvement ideas. Something that happens nearly every time I assemble a machine.
current_state_of_my_s2.jpg (170.59 KiB) Viewed 3282 times
Aside from installing the acme upgrade, I've mounted my side shields and put a sticker on the gantry carriage, otherwise, things are essentially the same.
As of right now, I decided to go with the porter cable 450 as my 'spindle'. It might be too much for the stock machine, but there's only one way to find out :-)

For mounts, I'm going to re-print a set from ABS, and then cut a set from UHMW once the router is mounted. Hopefully the printed parts will last for one job!

As you can see, I already tried printing a set of mounts. My thought was to print them tall, so there was less surface area in contact with the heated bed, this would help prevent warping (not too much of an issue with my printer) and it would make raft cleanup much easier (something I despise!). That all worked out fine until the slightest bit of force (in the wrong direction) managed to snap one in half. The issue is with the directions of the layers in relation to the force that's going to be applied to the part. Printed parts tend to snap along the same plane they are printed (some call it delaminating) because the fusion between the layers is less strong than they layers themselves. So, had I been thinking, I should have printed the part so there were both fewer layers AND so the layers were going perpendicular to the spindle that would be mounted through them. Here is a diagram about the problem (I am hoping that Cat jumps into this thread and explains what I'm trying to say, because I'm failing miserable right now...)
delamination.png (7.57 KiB) Viewed 3282 times
Shapeoko 1 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 2 #0 - a couple of upgrades.
Shapeoko 3 #2 - Stock

Post Reply