Scott216 Build Log

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scott216
Posts: 226
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:35 pm
Location: New Jersey

Scott216 Build Log

Post by scott216 » Mon May 12, 2014 1:27 am

I upgraded my spindle to a DeWalt DW660. I like it, but I wish I could get a precision collet. The runout on the shaft is pretty good, around 1 mil, but when I have a 1/8" bit installed it's about 10 mils. I haven't checked with the 1/4" collet. Anyway, I made some nice 2-piece brackets with my Replicator 2 3D printer using PLA. I wanted them to be pretty strong so I designed them to be hollow so I could fill with epoxy. The DW660 is not really round, so I designed my brackets to snugly fit the odd shape. I've got pictures and files up on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:314663

The top bracket has a spot to mount a limit switch. The design let's the DW660 clear the z-axis motor mounting plate.
DW660 Bracket4.jpg
Brackets with limit switch mounted
DW660 Bracket4.jpg (136.46 KiB) Viewed 3691 times
DW660 Bracket5.jpg
DW660 mounted
DW660 Bracket5.jpg (147.92 KiB) Viewed 3691 times
DW660 Bracket6.jpg
Good fit agains non-round body
DW660 Bracket6.jpg (110.07 KiB) Viewed 3691 times
I also removed the tool-free bit change collar and rotated the shift lock to the front as described here:
Shapeoko 2 with DW660
grbl v0.9g
PCB Toolchain: Cadsoft Eagle > pcb-gcode > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
Other Toolchain: Fusion 360 > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
My Build Log
Location: New Jersey

scott216
Posts: 226
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:35 pm
Location: New Jersey

Limit Switches

Post by scott216 » Mon May 12, 2014 1:49 am

Here's how I mounted my limit switches. For the X-axis I have little brackets I made on my 3D printer and just attached them right to the makerslide. You could get a way with a simple piece of wood for this. I uploaded the bracket design to Thingiverse.
Limit Switch Bracket X-axis.jpg
X-Axis Limit Switch
Limit Switch Bracket X-axis.jpg (21.42 KiB) Viewed 3686 times
For the Y-axis I mounted the switches on the Y-Axis motor plate. On my ShapeOko 2 the Y-axis can go all the way to the end plates because I trimmed down the carbon-fiber timing belt clips so the v-wheels could roll past. The switches use the existing slot for one screw. The other I drilled and tapped a new hole.
Limit Switch Y-axis.jpg
Y-Axis limit switch
Limit Switch Y-axis.jpg (48.92 KiB) Viewed 3686 times
For the Z-axis I have a bracket built into my motor bracket that holds the limit switch. I only have a switch for Z+ travel
Limit Switch Z-axis.jpg
Z-Axis limit switch
Limit Switch Z-axis.jpg (47.58 KiB) Viewed 3686 times
Limit switches come from McMaster P/N 7779K22

I wired the switches with 22 GA shielded 2 conductor wire. On the bottom of the Arduino Uno I soldered 330 ohm pull-up resistors. I did have noise problems if the shield from the motor cable is connected to the shield of the limit switch cables and both connected to Arduino ground. What seems to be working is tying the limit switch shield to Arduino's ground, and leaving the stepper motor cable shield unconnected.
Last edited by scott216 on Tue May 13, 2014 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Shapeoko 2 with DW660
grbl v0.9g
PCB Toolchain: Cadsoft Eagle > pcb-gcode > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
Other Toolchain: Fusion 360 > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
My Build Log
Location: New Jersey

scott216
Posts: 226
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:35 pm
Location: New Jersey

Electronics Enclosure

Post by scott216 » Mon May 12, 2014 2:03 am

I found an electronics enclosure on Thingiverse and modified it a bit. My version is on Thingiverse here.
I decided to mount my electronics (Uno + grbl shield) on the y-axis motor plate. This makes the wiring a lot easier and a lot shorter. The only flexing wires are the X-axis, USB and power. To mount the enclosure I cut out a bracket on my laser cutter. The enclosure has some room at the top for reset, start and hold buttons (currently I only have a reset button). And there's holes for airflow from the fan. I've also got a little proto board on the inside where the limit switches and pushbuttons are connected. I do want to make a shield that will take care of all the inputs and pull-ups.
Electronics Enclosure.jpg
Electronics Enclosure.jpg (62.42 KiB) Viewed 3683 times
Electronics Enclosure Inside.jpg
Electronics Enclosure Inside.jpg (68.39 KiB) Viewed 3683 times
Shapeoko 2 with DW660
grbl v0.9g
PCB Toolchain: Cadsoft Eagle > pcb-gcode > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
Other Toolchain: Fusion 360 > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
My Build Log
Location: New Jersey

scott216
Posts: 226
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:35 pm
Location: New Jersey

Re: Scott216 Build Log

Post by scott216 » Mon Apr 27, 2015 5:27 pm

Just finished a marathon effort squaring my Shapeoko. The angle between x-y axis was off. Finally getting it square was pretty difficult to do and a real pain - very time consuming for me.

At first I tried moving the position of the y-axis belts, but as soon as I got it close to square, one drive gear would jump a tooth on the belt when I moved the y-axis motors. REdington suggested I check if my gantry alum extrusions were square on the ends. I did this and found they were not. So I had a friend square them up in his Bridgeport. After getting them back and reinstalling them, the alignment was better, but still not good enough. Next I put some 0.025" shims between the motor mount plates and V-grove wheels. I put shims on the two front wheels on the left motor plate and shims on the back wheels on the right plate. This helped some more. After this, over 6" along the y-axis the x-axis was 0.008" out. Then I dialed it in by adjusting the drive belts. Since I didn't have to move the drive belts as much as the first time, the drive gear wasn't jumping a tooth anymore.

The method I used to check for squareness was to clamp a machinist's square to the Y-axis alum extrusion. Then I put a 1/4" calibration dowel pin in the router and used the probing function to probe two positions on the machinist's square that were 6" apart.

I did a little test where I drilled four holes at the corners of a 4 inch square pattern and used my calipers (with hole center attachment) to measure the diagonals. It was spot on - only 0.001" difference.

Next time I make a PCB and flip it over to mill the other side, things should line up better.
Shapeoko 2 with DW660
grbl v0.9g
PCB Toolchain: Cadsoft Eagle > pcb-gcode > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
Other Toolchain: Fusion 360 > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
My Build Log
Location: New Jersey

scott216
Posts: 226
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:35 pm
Location: New Jersey

Alum T-slot plate

Post by scott216 » Thu Apr 30, 2015 12:50 pm

I replaced the wooden waste board with Aluminum T-slot plate. I got the aluminum from Misumi: P/N HFSQN4-15250-500
In the pictures you can also see the leveling screws I put on the y-axis rails. These make it a lot easier to get everything level.
Shapeoko Alum Table.jpg
Aluminum T-Slot table
Shapeoko Alum Table.jpg (396.61 KiB) Viewed 2632 times
Alum Table Close.jpg
Close-up pic of alum tble
Alum Table Close.jpg (303.92 KiB) Viewed 2632 times
Shapeoko 2 with DW660
grbl v0.9g
PCB Toolchain: Cadsoft Eagle > pcb-gcode > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
Other Toolchain: Fusion 360 > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
My Build Log
Location: New Jersey

scott216
Posts: 226
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:35 pm
Location: New Jersey

Re: Scott216 Build Log

Post by scott216 » Wed May 20, 2015 3:38 am

I made a new input board where the limit switches, touch probe, e-stop and hold button are all connected. I've got LEDs that turn on when a limit switch or touch probe input is active. I was thinking of making a fancy input board with an isolated DC-DC power supply and opto-couplers. But after some posts on eevblog forum, I decided to keep it simple and just use 330 pullup resistors and 0.1uF caps on the input lines. I also had to print a new enclosure for the electronics.
Shapeoko Electronics 1.jpg
Input board. Uno is underneath
Shapeoko Electronics 1.jpg (357.62 KiB) Viewed 2499 times
Shapeoko Electronics 2.jpg
gshield plugged in
Shapeoko Electronics 2.jpg (400.31 KiB) Viewed 2499 times
Shapeoko Electronics 3.jpg
With lid and fan attached
Shapeoko Electronics 3.jpg (410.05 KiB) Viewed 2499 times
Shapeoko 2 with DW660
grbl v0.9g
PCB Toolchain: Cadsoft Eagle > pcb-gcode > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
Other Toolchain: Fusion 360 > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
My Build Log
Location: New Jersey

scott216
Posts: 226
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:35 pm
Location: New Jersey

Re: Scott216 Build Log

Post by scott216 » Fri May 29, 2015 4:21 pm

I zipped together the files for my input shield. There is a png file for the schematic and pcb. If you have Cadsoft Eagle, you can open up the included Eagle design files. I also added the gcode files I used to make my board on my Shapeoko. It's a two sided PCB. I use a tapered 0.010" end mill
There is a jumper that connects the shields from the limit switch cables to ground. I put this in there in case I wanted to run the shields to a chassis ground or something instead of the Arduino ground.
I have connections for a probe, e-stop button and hold button. I don't have the connection for the cycle start button since I never use that.
Attachments
Shapeoko Input Shield v4.zip
Design files for input board
(171.44 KiB) Downloaded 113 times
Shapeoko 2 with DW660
grbl v0.9g
PCB Toolchain: Cadsoft Eagle > pcb-gcode > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
Other Toolchain: Fusion 360 > Chilipeppr or GRBL Panel
My Build Log
Location: New Jersey

WillAdams
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Re: Scott216 Build Log

Post by WillAdams » Fri May 29, 2015 4:30 pm

Very cool, but how does one make use of a hold button w/o a matching cycle start / resume button?

Added it to the wiki here: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/ ... ternatives --- would there be some better place for it?
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/Makita RT0701 Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Elaire precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

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