Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

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JacobF
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:13 pm
Location: Columbia, Missouri

Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

Post by JacobF » Mon Nov 10, 2014 2:47 am

After receiving my mechanical kit in September I'm finally getting the chance to assemble it. I decided to go with a few modifications/upgrades from the start, including: Acme Z-axis kit, 1000mm Y-axis, TinyG, and Makita router.

Tapping the MakerSlide went pretty smoothly and I even got to use the tap wrench that has been in my family for about 100 years.

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I trimmed the top Z-axis bearing plate to allow more clearance for the spindle.

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Since the stock spindle mount will not work with the Makita I would like to cut my own. To cut my own I needed the router mounted, kind of a chicken-and-the-egg type problem.

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I came up with a pretty solid solution using some 4" screw type hose clamps left over from installing a dryer vent. I cut them to shorter lengths, doubled the ends over and then drilled holes for an M5 screw to fit through. It holds the router very securely and if I didn't want to make mounts that incorporate a dust shoe and vacuum hose mounts I would probably stick with this setup.

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Here's the work table with torsion-box top that I made for the machine to live on. Eventually I want to enclose the bottom to act as a shop vac silencing chamber similar to the one in this video: http://youtu.be/Bd2nhNf9Tp8

I would also like to enclose the top with some sound insulation, viewing window, and dedicated lighting.

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I somehow missed the part in the instructions explaining that the X-axis has some space between the MakerSlide. I drilled and bolted the two X-axis pieces together and then realized they won't fit in the carriage as it is now. I'm going to get some shorter spacers and try to make it work that way.
Last edited by JacobF on Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

WillAdams
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Re: Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

Post by WillAdams » Mon Nov 10, 2014 3:08 am

Cool tap handle!

Ingenious and elegant solution for mounting the router using the hose clamps --- added to the wiki.

Attaching the X-axis double Makerslide together will result in a much more rigid assembly --- my inclination would be to just cut the spacers down to the right size --- a #23 index drill bit fits between the rails on my SO2, but a #22 won't, so you should need to remove about 0.154" or so of material (or source a spacer which is that much less).
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/Makita RT0701 Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Elaire precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

JacobF
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:13 pm
Location: Columbia, Missouri

Re: Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

Post by JacobF » Tue Nov 11, 2014 5:50 pm

I tried cutting my longer spacers down by 3.9mm on my miter saw but I'm not really setup to make that precise of a cut so they actually ended up a bit short. I tried using some of the standard M5 washers as shims but they're too thick and have too much variation in the thickness anyway. I have a couple sizes of precision shims on order from McMaster-Carr which I hope can get me sorted out.

WillAdams
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Re: Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

Post by WillAdams » Tue Nov 11, 2014 6:15 pm

The last time cutting spacers came up my suggestion was to drill holes along the edge of two boards, clamp them all in place, then saw off w/ a hacksaw and file off square.
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/Makita RT0701 Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Elaire precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

cvoinescu
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Re: Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

Post by cvoinescu » Tue Nov 11, 2014 6:25 pm

3.9 mm is about four M5 washers, depending on tolerance (a Form A M5 washer is nominally 1.0 mm, actually more like 0.95 mm; a Form B is 0.8 mm nominal, 0.75 mm actual). So four Form A or five Form B M5 washers will get you very close.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

JacobF
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Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:13 pm
Location: Columbia, Missouri

Re: Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

Post by JacobF » Tue Nov 11, 2014 6:47 pm

3.9 mm is what needed to be removed and I ended up taking off slightly more than that. The carriage will fit on the X-axis but I can see that the V-wheels are not seating fully on the MakerSlide. I ordered a couple thicknesses of these shims http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims ... hzi2dm07im so I can get the alignment dialed in.

cvoinescu
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Re: Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

Post by cvoinescu » Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:48 pm

Sorry, I misread. I see what happened. I would have replaced the short spacers (6.35mm) with a few washers each.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

JacobF
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Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:13 pm
Location: Columbia, Missouri

Re: Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

Post by JacobF » Wed Dec 10, 2014 3:02 am

I've been running "Hello world" tests, with a few being successful. The first one I tried using tgFX on an older Windows machine that I had planned to be dedicated for use with the Shapeoko. It completed the test but when drawing curves it would pause causing the test to take over four minutes, which can be seen in the first video below. I then tried running the Gcode through Coolterm on my MacBook and it performed correctly. I went back to the Windows machine and sent the Gcode through Coolterm on the Windows machine and that is shown in the second video below. It works well up until the "2" when it seems to go off on its own.

http://youtu.be/uYpg2war0kM?list=UUQTXq ... _yJa9kDKdA

http://youtu.be/wyeO05ePXl0?list=UUQTXq ... _yJa9kDKdA

JacobF
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:13 pm
Location: Columbia, Missouri

Re: Jacob's Shapeoko 2 #6316

Post by JacobF » Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:05 pm

I made my first cut in wood with the machine and it went pretty well, despite one of the eccentric V-wheels falling off the gantry about halfway through the job. I just let it keep going and I didn't notice any obvious problems. The cut quality was good using 35 inches/minute feed rate in oak.



The material I used for the dust skirt isn't working too well. I either have too much suction or the material is not rigid enough because the flaps just got sucked into the shoe. I think I'm going to get some bristles instead of using foam flaps. Also, the dust shoe (which a member here was very kind to print out for me) has a couple design issues that I'm going to attempt to address. The angle that the vacuum port comes out decreases the working area since it can contact the makerslide. I'm going to try and cut it shorter and get a 45 degree elbow to redirect it vertically. I'm also going to make a collar that clamps on to the router permanently and then put magnets in the shoe so that it can be removed more easily for bit changes.

My next steps are:
Sound enclosure for the machine and vacuum
New electronics enclosure
Build a dust separator

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