eShapeoko # - Italy

onekk
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:29 pm

eShapeoko # - Italy

Post by onekk » Thu Jan 08, 2015 1:18 pm

Hello to all this is the build log of my eShapeoko, just reserved on the site.

Today I have received a DccDuino board for the brain of the machine, and I've compiled and uploaded (with the Arduino IDE) Grbl v0.9g on it.

I'm using debian Jessie (8.0 but still in frozen pre-release state) with the stock packages, plus some compiled by hand:

- kokopelli (From MIT a parametric CAD and G-Code generator)
- F-Engrave a program fro carving (It work on linux) (stock from the site)
- OpenSCAM for testing the G-Code (stock from the site)
- FreeCAD for CAD design
- HeeksCAD + HeeksCNC for CAD/CAM (compiled by hand)

Now waiting for the electronics, the driver board (China made seems a copy of the protoneer Ardunio-CNC-Shield V3)
and the eShapeoko

Bye to all

Carlo D.

onekk
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:29 pm

Re: eShapeoko # - Italy

Post by onekk » Wed Feb 11, 2015 6:36 pm

I received some item and waiting for the pre-order from cvionescu.
The electronics has arrived so I'm running Grbl 0.9g on an Arduino Uno clone, that work perfectly, I ve bought an A20-Olinuxino-Micro from Olimex, and bought a cheap VGA monitor from Ebay.

Now I've found in the attic my first PC (Evertything will be useful in future) and dismantled it, so here you some photos of the "Control unit" in building:


The HT compartment, I've tried to modify the old AT PSU but in the process I've broken something, so the unit is empty, i put a plexiglass on the fixture or the MB and done some wiring in this compartment, routing the 12V wiring for the fan out.

Image

A more panoramic view of the cabinet you will se the 24V 10A PSU for the motors (maybe i can tune it for more voltage maybe 28), as the Arduino and motor shield go in the HD compartment the wiring is short, the 12V 2,5A is under the bar. on the right there is another plexiglass that will hold the Olinuxino micro and the lipo battery (for the RTC).

Image

In this image you will see from left to right the 12V PSU under the bar, the back of the 24V PSU and the plexiglass that will support the Olinuxino (under the plexiglass, over the plexiglass i will fix the VGA connector and leave room from future expansion)

Image

As soon the eShapeoko is functional i will cut the frontal panel with the buttons, the sockets for the 4 motors wiring (four military audio connector very very strong) and the limit switch (a db9 connector), on the HD compartment i will put the big mushroom switch to cut off the 24V to the motors, hoping the shielding is better enoough (the enclosure is made by a strong steel not the lightweight sheets that are used in this day, it's a 1990 enclosure).

Regards to all.

Carlo D.
Last edited by onekk on Sun Jun 14, 2015 3:45 pm, edited 3 times in total.

onekk
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:29 pm

It's here

Post by onekk » Sun Jun 14, 2015 3:25 pm

My new eShapeoko is Here (arrived some time ago but I ?haven't had time to write).

It's up and running and soon it will be finished with a kress 1050 FME-1 and some other gadget.

What i love:

1) the footprint 750x1000
2) Makerslides and the dual Makerslide on the X axis
3) the istructions on how to build it (I'vent made almost no mistake in assembly it)
4) The X carriage is solid with the aluminium spacers as default choice if you have the dual Makerslide

What i didn't love:

1) the Y motor mount are too weak and the gantry twist too much, I've to find out a method to increase the rigidity
2) The Z limit switch mount, I've done some modifications to make them more tunable
3) The Z axis motor mount (or better the plastic spacers) i have to shim to make the two halves more parallel
4) The delrin nut of the Z axis (a method to control the backslash is welcome)
5) the motor mounts spacers (better if they were aluminium spacers)

However I think I've done a good bargain, the materials are quite good, they are manufactured very well for an hobby machine. Some little filing on some lasercut sprays.
The end plates are sturdy so are the middle span supports, the belt tensioners are good.

The packaging is very well organized and protect the Makerslide during the shipping, there are some parts, mostly washers, some precision washer, two little spacers and some screws are left, there is even a torx key for the recessed T screw of the "deluxe frame".

So I'm the owner of the eShapeoko #343

Here some image of the actual assembly :

Image

A view of the workspace withe the hole drilled in it, it is composed of two pieces the botton is a plywood of 15mm high and the top is a MDF of 8mm

Image

A close view of the 4 military audio connector for the motors, I have left them wired with a piece of cable protruding from the machine, for space reasons.

Image

The X and Z axis motor connections.

Image

The right Y axis motor connection, with the holder of the 4 motor cables.

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The left Y motor connector and the the limit switch cables (a 6 wire alarm cable double shielded) one is going through the cable holder to reach the X and Z limit switches

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A Z axis and X Carriage view from the front, you will see the modified z-limit switch, and the alarm cable that exit from the middle of the cable holder to connect the X and Z limit switchhes, and going with the X and Z motor cable

Image

Georgei
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2014 11:22 pm
Location: UK

Re: eShapeoko # - Italy

Post by Georgei » Sun Jun 14, 2015 5:35 pm

Hi Carlo,

It looks good.

I had also problem with backlash in my Z axis.

I have done this modification and works a treat: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic ... xis#p42923

I agree with you with the Y plates. Too much flex. I have use the eShapeoko to cut new ones from 6mm aluminium. This has improve the flex but has not eliminate it.

You can find the files for the plates here: https://github.com/amberspyglass/parts/

The file you want is the EM-LMP-rev-4.dwg.

George


George

onekk
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Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:29 pm

Re: eShapeoko # - Italy

Post by onekk » Mon Jun 15, 2015 5:12 pm

Do you mill aluminium with eShapeoko, what "spindle" do you use, what mm/min and z pass.
6mm seems very sturdy I was thinking of adding a aluminium L profile to the original plates to increase rigidity, my gantry as a support on the back for the cables, maybe adding an aluminium L there i can close the gantry as a rectangle to improve rigidity, .

For the delrin nut, i have to order a second one from amberspyglass, but i think to add the second delrin nut not with springs, but shimming the two nuts, with spacers made from soda cans and aluminium foils, I have shimmed my workbench with this method and as the aluminium thicknes is 0,08mm the precision is very good, you can get some brass foil of 0,05mm but they are way more expensive than aluminium cans.

Tanks and regards

carlo D.

Georgei
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2014 11:22 pm
Location: UK

Re: eShapeoko # - Italy

Post by Georgei » Mon Jun 15, 2015 5:35 pm

onekk wrote:Do you mill aluminium with eShapeoko, what "spindle" do you use, what mm/min and z pass
Yes, I made my aluminium plates with it. When I made the plates I used a Dremel (like you) with a 3mm 2 flute cutter, 600mm/min feed rate and 0.5mm cutting depth in each pass.

The way you describe the anti-backlash nut will work. You do not have to put a spring.


George

cvoinescu
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Re: eShapeoko # - Italy

Post by cvoinescu » Mon Jun 15, 2015 6:47 pm

I like the blue plates!

Also, I'm glad you like the machine, and thank you for the constructive criticism. It helps make the next iteration better! About the Z limit switch holder, would you share the modifications you made?

You should not have any parts left over except washers. Everything else should be counted exactly, including the precision washers, unless we made a mistake. You seem to be missing the two M5 nylon washers on the M5 x 18 screws that hold the two Z motor plates to the Z MakerSlide. That's probably why you had to shim that assembly -- it's nearly impossible to get it skewed if you have all five nylon washers there (three M3, two M5).
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

onekk
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:29 pm

Re: eShapeoko # - Italy

Post by onekk » Mon Jun 15, 2015 10:37 pm

Thanks, cvionescu.

For the z-limit switch i have done a modification to register the distance between the plate and the switches housing, more photos to explain.

For the z motor plate, all the 5 nylon washer are in place, but the nylon is compressing in different ways, I couldn't use any method to even the force of the screw tighten, as my 0,5Nm torque wrench is too strong for the nylon washer and they are compressed.

Some M5 screw 2 ore 3 with the internal hex and two with the semispherical head, 1 bearing and two short aluminium spacers, plus several washers, but I think they are for alternatives motor/belt assembly, I have reused the belt holder for the X axis to fix the two aluminium L that hold the plastic cable holder.

Regards

Carlo D.

cvoinescu
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Re: eShapeoko # - Italy

Post by cvoinescu » Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:32 am

Oh yes, I forgot about those. If you have NEMA 23 motors, you get two flanged button-head screws that are for alternative motor arrangements, and some spacers for that too, so you will have parts left over no matter what (including a pair of belt anchors). And an extra bearing, forgot about that too. An earlier batch of bearings, from a different supplier, had a high enough defect rate that, with 52 of them in a kit, it was cheaper (and better customer service) to give everyone an extra bearing than to post a replacement bearing every ten kits or so... These new bearings are much better, but they're still the part that's most likely to go bad, so it still makes sense to include a spare.

You probably overdid the tightening on the M5 x 18 mm screws if they squashed the nylon spacers, but that's all right.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

onekk
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:29 pm

Re: eShapeoko # - Italy

Post by onekk » Wed Jun 17, 2015 2:17 pm

Some more images:

The Z limit switch holder modified note the two 3MA bolts and the washer stacked to obtain the proper alignment with the L bolted to the makerslide.
I cut in two pieces the original limit holder and I have obtainted the piece bend 90° and over it I have bolted the L and over the L i have bolted the z limit holder.

The aluminium L is very strong and didn't flex when the Z switch is triggered (the misalignment didn't make the switch trigger well)

Image

A view of the temporary solution for the cables holder, is an aluminium L cut to length and boltes to the 5.25 bay on the ex-computer case. (I have many aluminium L salvaged from scrap to use in the shop)

Note the little breadboards that connects:

1)the limit switches and holds the plastic capacitors for filtering
2) the probe connections

Image


My button holder for GRBL and my tool length probe (The black box lower in the photo)

Image

A view of the left Y axis mount, with the limit switch cables and the modified belt holder (The one not used in my configuration) used as a support for the L that hold the cable holder

Image

The Z bearing mount with the uneven spacing, probably it's my fault during the first montage, but now i will shim it properly to make it more parallel

Image

My solution for levelling the X and Y makerslide, the little discs are the registry of a motor camshaft. Think at them as a "poor man" alternative to the 123 blocks or to a set set of calibrated height blocks (sorry but i haven't a proper traduction for them), they are sold in different height spaced by 0.05 mm stacking them and measuring with a proper tools (micrometer or so) let you to obtain a spacer of a desired height and very strong (They are made of hardened steel and have to resist to the wearing of the camshaft), they are probably from old fiat (124, Ritmo and so on) and are from 4,00 mm to 4,70 mm but there are some version for the Renault very similar slightly different in diameter with a height of about 3,30mm the lower, if you ask to a good and established part supplier maybe it will be happy to sell some leftovers for a llittle money (if i didn't go wrong they cost new far under a Euros each) mine are some new and some used.

Image

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