Shapeoko 3 #677 build log (Dust enclosure w/ a 'silent' fan)

[RoguePirin]

I received my machine in September, but getting slices of time for it has been few and far between. I plan to document my changes here in sufficient detail that others can replicate it if so desired. I have learned a ton from this forum and hope others can benefit as I have.

I will skip the actual assembly of the stock machine, since it is well documented in so many other build logs. So, here is my completed machine frame:

01-Stock Shapeoko 3.jpg (89.79 KiB) Viewed 8585 times

And the obligatory Hello World test:

02-Hello world.jpg (75.98 KiB) Viewed 8585 times

Here are all of the changes I plan to make in the coming months:

• Build a work table [complete]
• Use nyloc nuts [complete]
• Replace the base with 3/4" HDPE [complete]
• Add t-nut anchoring in the base [complete]
• Build a dust enclosure [complete]
• Install a 1/4" HDPE waste board [complete]
• Add solid state (Hall-Effect magnetic) limit switches [complete]
• Add a touch plate [start / complete]
• Add a dust shoe [complete (I ended up just buying one from Improbable Constucts -- UPDATE: I changed out my dust shoe with a SuckIt dust shoe)]
• Install a 'silent' dust collection system using a squirrel fan [start / complete]
• Add a Super-PID controller to the router [complete]
• Earth ground the DWP611 router [complete]

[RoguePirin]

I don't really have a workshop in my home. My machine has been relegated to the basement, squeezed in between the freezer and a shelving unit. I built the table to be 35" wide and 30" deep (similar to a shelving unit). The top is made of 2 layers of 3/4" Melamine, glued and screwed together. The top rests on 4x4 posts, which have levelers attached on the bottom. The rest are 2x4's used for structural integrity, but they don't hold any of the weight.

03-SO3 Bench.jpg (134.22 KiB) Viewed 8585 times

Then, I ran 2 separate 15 amp electrical circuits to a dual gang box on the wall (one circuit on each side). I did this to allow me to put the computer and the SO3 on one circuit, and the router on the other.

[RoguePirin]

I decided to replace all the nuts I could (I could not replace the square or eccentric nuts) in the SO3 with nyloc nuts. I placed an order with Fastenal online; here is what I ordered:
(Qty 12) M3-0.5 DIN 985 Grade A4 Stainless Steel Nylon Insert Lock Nut
(Qty 29) M5-0.8 DIN 985 Grade A4 Stainless Steel Nylon Insert Lock Nut
(Qty 1) M6-1.0 DIN 985 Grade A4 Stainless Steel Nylon Insert Lock Nut
(Qty 6) M8-1.25 DIN 985 Grade A4 Stainless Steel Nylon Insert Lock Nut

I didn't have to buy any longer bolts, the ones from the kit worked just fine. I will have to say that it is ridiculously difficult to pull the motors, in order to stretch the belts, and then tighten nlyoc nuts down by yourself. I ended up using the regular nuts that were included in the kit to attach the motors. Once all stretching was done, and all nuts tightened, I replaced the motor nuts, one at a time, with the nyloc equivalent.

[RoguePirin]

Since I will be working in the basement, there will be a bit more moisture in the air. Instead of sealing the MDF, I decided to replace the 1/2" MDF base with 3/4" HDPE. I went with King Starboard, marine-grade, HDPE.

King StarBoard® is the original marine-grade high-density polyethylene sheet and the industry standard. It is the product of a proprietary process called K-Stran™, the most advanced manufacturing process for superior flatness and consistency. King StarBoard is environmentally stabilized to withstand the harshest marine conditions. It will not warp, rot, or delaminate when exposed to humidity or water. King StarBoard is easy to fabricate with standard woodworking tools and requires little or no finishing.

I bought my piece of 24" by 27" starboard off of eBay. It is not quite the same size as the SO3 S3099 drawing, but it accommodates all the holes needed to attach it to the metal frame. I used the technique outlined by Edward and used transfer punches to mark the HDPE.

04-StarBoard-Transfer Punches.jpg (86.86 KiB) Viewed 8587 times

Then, I used a silver Sharpie marker to mark each indentation so it would be easier to see when drilling.

05-StarBoard - marked punches - zoomed.jpg (101.42 KiB) Viewed 8587 times

Then, I drilled all of my holes and counter sunk them. In order to attach the thicker plate to the frame, I bought longer M5 machine screws (20mm long instead of 16mm). I could have counter sunk the holes deeper and used the original screws, but I wanted to leave more of the new base material.

06-StarBoard - countersunk holes - zoomed.jpg (108.2 KiB) Viewed 8587 times

Finally, I had to skim 1/4" off of each side (in about 1.5") to make room for the X-Axis plates (they hang down to the old 1/2" height of the original bed).

[RoguePirin]

Here is the HDPE base installed.

07-StarBoard Installed.jpg (240.67 KiB) Viewed 8583 times

My plan now is to use the router to drill the hole pattern for the t-nuts.

[WillAdams]

Sharp!

What clamping technique will you be using? Will all the holes for that being w/in the work are be limiting to you?

[RoguePirin]

Thanks, Will. I like the look of it, too.

For the t-nuts, I plan on using the SO3 to cut the holes in a grid pattern. Once that is done, I will use the SO3 to drill a separate guide that has 4 holes in single line in the same pattern. I will place that guide where 2 holes can be screwed into the base, with the remaining 2 holes off to the side (outside the cutting area). I will use transfer punches to mark these locations, and then hand drill for more t-nuts. This will give me 2 extra rows of holes outside the cutting area.

The first row of holes will be for clamps that hold material as big as the cutting area. The outside most holes will be used to secure the 1/4" HDPE waste board that I plan to add. I will have the SO3 drill the same hole pattern in the waste board so that the clamp screws can go through to the t-nuts. After all this is done, and the 1/4" HDPE is secured to the base using the outer-most holes, I will surface the waste board flat. I was thinking of having the waste board be 15" x 20". This allows me to have lumber that is longer than the 16" area, but not wider (as the surfacing won't reach the sides). Anyway, I hope to go into more detail on this when I get to that section of the build.

As for clamps, I don't know yet. I was thinking just simple rectangular pieces with a slot cut in them, similar to the Inventables clamp set.

[WillAdams]

One question is what size hardware is suitable.

I’m thinking the #10-24 I used is too large, and wishing instead for a size suited to be work w/ a hole made by a 1/8" endmill drill operation, so M3 or #6-32.

[cvoinescu]

Wouldn't helical boring, or even pocketing, count as a single operation?

[WillAdams]

Yes, but I’m finding that I mislike the wasted material caused by the larger hole and matching hardware.