twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

twforeman
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by twforeman » Fri Feb 05, 2016 3:24 pm

Apparently I can't stop myself from wanting to upgrade my machine. I just bought a SuperPID...

I also started shimming the V-Wheels. I should have a post up about that this weekend.
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dvdsnyd
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by dvdsnyd » Sat Feb 06, 2016 2:25 am

This is really great stuff, Tim! I am wondering what the make/model of your snap check gauge is. I can't seem to find one that has A similar base to yours. P.s we still need to try and get together sometime :-)


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CrazyBillybob
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by CrazyBillybob » Sat Feb 06, 2016 2:59 pm

Not to steal twoforman's thunder but I bought the same quick check gauge this Christmas for my father from chipsfly.com
Link:
http://www.chipsfly.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... ory_Code=L

I don't work for the site or anything. They shipped quick and it was under $20(us)

Hope it helps,
CBB

twforeman
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by twforeman » Sat Feb 06, 2016 5:00 pm

That's where I bought mine too. :) No thunder stealing here.

On with an upgrade update. Last we heard I was waiting for my shims to arrive for the v-wheels. While I was waiting I decided to checkout out the spacer washers that go between the wheels and the plates.

The first thing I noticed was that there were some burrs on them from the stamping process so I grabbed some 400 grit paper and a flat surface and sanded them down a bit.

Image

Then I measured them all and sorted them by thickness. There was a bit of variation ranging from 0.032" to 0.039".

Image

Just to see, I also measured all the precision washers that were in the v-wheel assemblies. They were actually all the same and measured 0.043" I think I'm going to use the old bearing shims between the wheels and the plates. Then I don't have to worry about the differences in thicknesses.
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twforeman
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by twforeman » Sat Feb 06, 2016 5:34 pm

Next is shimming the bearings. This post is going to completely cover how to do this, so it may be a little long.

First, go to McMaster-Carr and order one package each of the following packages of shims: They come in packs of 25, which is more than enough to do all the wheels on your S3.

Next, disassemble all the v-wheels. I used a socket to support the wheel and a small screwdriver to lightly tap out the bearings. It doesn't take much force to get them out.

The bearings and existing shims are pretty consistent in their thickness, so you don't need to worry about keeping them together with the wheels they came with. I just tossed all the parts into a container.

Next, make a copy of this Google Sheet that will calculate which shims you need for each wheel.

You will want a way to mark the wheels so you can keep track of which one is which when it's time to shim and assemble. A piece of masking tape will work. I used some tags that I bought a while ago. You could write on the wheels with a paint marker if you want.

The spreadsheet is designed to use thousandths of inches with no decimal point. So a measurement of 0.129" would be entered as 129.

Measure each wheel. First measure the thickness. Enter the value into the spreadsheet in the Wheel Thickness column.

Image

Next measure the distance from the face of the wheel to the rib. This can be a bit tricky, so I repeated the measurement three or four times around the diameter. Make sure you don't get hung up on the small radius at the bottom of the rib. The numbers should be in the range of 0.127" to 0.133". Enter the number in the Rib Depth 1 column.

Image

Repeat for the other side, entering the number in the Rib Depth 2 column.

The sheet will calculate the rib thickness and the shim stack to use to match this thickness. For example, a Shim Stack of 2x003, 1x005, 1x020 means using two 0.003" shims and one each of 0.010" and 0.020".

Next assemble the wheel again using the shims called out on the spreadsheet. You can just press the bearings in with your fingers. I used a wheel bolt to keep the shims centered during assembly.

Image

Once the wheel is assembled you can double-check the fit by measuring the total width across the bearing faces. It should equal the value in the Total Stack Up column.

The last column - Plate Shim - is the amount of additional shim that you should put with the washer between the bearing and the carriage plate to make the V-Wheels as co-planer as possible. You may have to fudge a little one way or another - using a 0.003" or 0.005" shim when it calls for 0.004".

I would suggest using the original bearing shim washers between the wheels and the plates. They are a little thicker than the ones supplied for this purpose, but they are much more consistent in thickness. Mine all measured within 0.0005" of each other while the supplied washers ranged from 0.032" to 0.039" in thickness.

If you follow this procedure your v-wheels should have no bearing slop and be as co-planer as possible.
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twforeman
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by twforeman » Sun Feb 07, 2016 11:08 pm

I did a whole bunch of work today, but didn't take a lot of photos because it wasn't really work that needs them.

I bolted all the wheels to the plates again and then realized that since I had changed the spacers between the wheels and the plates I was going to have to loosen up all the rails again so I could get the distance between them correct. So I had to completely re-level the machine again.

But before that I had to open up the holes on the end plates a little more since the rails didn't want to spread quite far enough apart and get level at the same time. So I unbolted the rails, set them aside and drilled out the holes. Then I bolted it all back up again. Fun times.

But, I had a brain storm about leveling the rails! I was having difficulty holding the rails the same height on both sides and tightening the screws with out moving the rails. Then I got smart and grabbed some scraps, t-nuts and bolts and made a pair of small screw jacks to hold the rails up! It worked great!

Image

I got the two front ends the same height and tightened them down, then I did the rears. I re-checked the fronts again and had to adjust them a little bit and then all four corners were within 0.001" of each other!

I had to grab some chunks of 4x4 to make the jacks high enough to do the X rail, but it worked the same. Of course I didn't have quite enough adjustment there either so I had to remove the rail and drill out those holes too.

Image

I also noticed that my Z motor plate wasn't quite flat in both directions and since I had to remove all the parts from it anyway to install the angle braces I supported the edges on some scraps and used my drill press to bend it a bit. It's flatter now.

After that it was drilling and countersinking the holes in the plate, drilling and tapping the holes in the motor mount and putting it all back together.

Image
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twforeman
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by twforeman » Sun Feb 07, 2016 11:16 pm

I left all the spindle mount bolts loose and then lowered it onto my 1-2-3 blocks to get it as square as possible to the table in both directions. They I tightened it all up.

Image

I put the router in the mount, put my test indicator on the router and checked out alignment.

Image

It's within 0.005" of vertical from front to back and is tipped left to right about 0.003". I might loosen the bolts and put in a shim to try and get it more vertical in the front to back direction but over all I'm pretty happy with it at this point!

After that I cleaned up the mess I had made, screwed the electronics to a piece of plywood, hooked up all the wires and tested it out.

Image

It worked!

I might try and run the diamond-circle-square test after dinner tonight. We'll see.

The more I look at it, the more I think that three strips of MDF are too much for the risers. I think I'll re-make them with two. The spindle has to reach way down to get to the table.

For now I'll probably lower the router in the mount some more and use MDF scraps under the work piece.
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AnonymousPerson
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by AnonymousPerson » Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:24 am

Sounds like you've really gotten the hang of this. :D
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Atonwa
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by Atonwa » Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:34 am

Great write up and pictures. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I was reading through your thread at 1am last night so now I have 3 sets of 1-2-3 blocks and the snap check on the way to align my S3 and Routakit this week. :D
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twforeman
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Re: twforeman's Shapeoko 3 #0004 Upgrades - Long

Post by twforeman » Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:44 am

AnonymousPerson wrote:Sounds like you've really gotten the hang of this. :D
This isn't my first rodeo. :) I spent a lot of time trying to make my first Shapeoko 1 accurate. It ended up working out pretty well.
Atonwa wrote:Great write up and pictures. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I was reading through your thread at 1am last night so now I have 3 sets of 1-2-3 blocks and the snap check on the way to align my S3 and Routakit this week. :D
1-2-3 blocks are super useful for lots of things.

The Snap-Check worked out really well for setting the heights. Once I realized that I could zero it on one corner and just compare the differences on the other corners it made it very easy.

The one thing about the Snap-Check that you want to be careful of is that it is made of plastic and will flex. If you push down on the top of the handle area it will flex enough to change your numbers by .003-.005. I ended up holding it down inside the handle area and that worked out well.
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