Shapeoko 101

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WillAdams
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Shapeoko 101

Post by WillAdams » Mon Feb 04, 2013 5:39 pm

I guess what we need is a ``Shapeoko 101'' which covers things after assembly:

- measuring the actual useful working area (this will vary slightly from one machine to another, even for a stock Shapeoko, right?)
- ``tramming'' the work surface (and a discussion of what surfaces are appropriate for what sort of work)
- measuring the precision of an assembled unit, knowing what modifications will improve (or lessen) it
- techniques for mounting materials for machining
- endmill and material selection
- precision expectations --- appropriateness of machining over-size and then trimming down to finished dimensions, or making up voids w/ glue, or extra coats of finish
- maintenance --- should the threaded rod for the Z-axis be oiled? How often will the v-wheels need to be replaced?

I'm currently bogged down on trying to set up a drive-shaft upgrade (broke down and purchased a pair of couples on the extremely Big auction y site), but will hopefully be adding to this.
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/ Carbide Compact Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Carbide 3D precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

madmanmoe
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Re: Shapeoko 101

Post by madmanmoe » Thu Feb 07, 2013 5:44 am

Do you mean extend the Wiki with a list of things to do after you get bored running the 'Hello World' file?

One problem with a 'What to do next' guide, is that everyone will have different plans for what they want to do with their machine.

Although I suppose some calibration tips wouldn't hurt.
I know that there is a thread with a calibration G-Code, that was intended to measure accuracy and repeatability of machines.
If you browse through enough threads in the Assembly category you pick up a lot of tips, tighten V-Wheels & Belts, check drivers have enough power or aren't overheating etc.

Also all 'stock' Shapeoko's should have the same working area. Physically they may differ by a few mm, but you should never be working right up to the edges of a machine anyway.
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eShapeoko #23 Dual Y, Dual X, Dremel 4000, Pololu a4988 steppers run from LinuxCNC

WillAdams
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Re: Shapeoko 101

Post by WillAdams » Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:49 pm

I don't want a specific guide, just a set of guidelines:

- you've assembled your machine, it's not accurate --- if it's off in this way, try these things, that way, these other things
- ``you should never be working right up to the edges of a machine'' --- I did not know / realize that. How much of a dead area should I leave around the edges?
- list of materials matched up against upgrades w/ precision expectations

I did finally think to search for ``CNC FAQ'' which led me to some pages I hadn't found as-of-yet, so will hopefully have some more to chew on.

William
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/ Carbide Compact Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Carbide 3D precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

madmanmoe
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Re: Shapeoko 101

Post by madmanmoe » Fri Feb 08, 2013 4:05 pm

As for your working area, I'm not sure that's a solid rule, it just makes me nervous.
I'm set up with LinuxCNC so I have the working area set at about 10mm short of where it would hit the sides.
These are known as soft limits (like limit switches but software controlled)

This just gives a bit of safety in case:
- You didn't perfectly home your machine (in fact without switches you can never perfectly home your machine)
- You machine gets out of place (due to missed steps, belt skipping etc.)
- You're manually jogging the machine and not paying attention.

If working with grbl I don't know whether you enter the working area into the settings somewhere or whether it is just a number you keep in your head as 'the maximum size file I can put into my machine'.

Either way it is definitely a good idea to define your working area slightly smaller than where it will actually contact the sides, 10mm at each end is plenty.


I think an all purpose calibration file is a good idea (one is being developed in another thread) then everyone is working from the same file, and specific areas can be linked to specific problems.
Rather than lots of individual threads with individual problems.
What would be really helpful is lots of shots of the calibration file with a description of what causes the problem.
i.e intentionally loosen your X axis V wheels, run the file, take a picture, repeat for several common problems.
Not sure I want to do that with mine though, I've just got it running nicely.
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eShapeoko #23 Dual Y, Dual X, Dremel 4000, Pololu a4988 steppers run from LinuxCNC

msg558
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Re: Shapeoko 101

Post by msg558 » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:07 pm

I think more enhanced documentation could only help the ShapeOko project. I have no machining experience outside of what I have done with ShapeOko so I think others like me would be benefitted largely by a refined version of the collective knowledge of the community. Forums seem great for developing ideas, but once developed, they should be documented in an easy to understand form for maximum effectiveness. Easier said than done of course.

I personally would like to see standardized upgrades. For example, I think adding the dual y-axis upgrade kit to the Inventables site was perfect, especially with the walk through videos by Edward. I realize that most people have different ideas for what they want to do with their machine, but some just want something that they know will work. I would rather be building things with the Shapeoko than fiddling with it. Standardized upgrades would give people more confidence in making the decision to purchase the upgrade parts and even the shapeoko itself. For example, I would love to turn my shapeoko into a 3D printer, but I have no desire to go through the hassle of figuring out which parts I need to buy and how to assemble them correctly and how to troubleshoot the software and hardware. If there was a standard kit with good instructions I'd gladly hand over $300+ for it.

If there is enough interest and backing then I would gladly volunteer my time towards achieving the goals presented in this thread thus far.

WillAdams
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Re: Shapeoko 101

Post by WillAdams » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:22 pm

I've been pounding away at finding information on the Forums and transferring it into the appropriate place on the wiki.

Now that I've got my machine cutting, I'll hopefully be able to start adding some information from direct experience --- but I'm trying to limit it to positive successes, which I'm not having many of yet (::grrrr:: who'd've thought a lousy cutting board could be so difficult to mill).

I'm waiting on one more part (a coupler from China) before I can finish my take on the driveshaft upgrade and document it --- in the meanwhile, Tom Smith was generous enough to pretty thoroughly document his 5mm version (which I'm quite jealous of --- I couldn't source 5mm parts locally to save my life). The 5mm driveshaft upgrade should be more than adequate for a stock Shapeoko and strikes me as an elegant solution which really should be available as a standard part of ``Shapeoko Mk II'' when that's standardized.

William
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/ Carbide Compact Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Carbide 3D precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

Althiels
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Re: Shapeoko 101

Post by Althiels » Wed Feb 13, 2013 6:43 pm

I am in this boat too but I don't mind fiddling around with it to make it work. Just need to look into what is needed!
msg558 wrote:For example, I would love to turn my shapeoko into a 3D printer, but I have no desire to go through the hassle of figuring out which parts I need to buy and how to assemble them correctly and how to troubleshoot the software and hardware. If there was a standard kit with good instructions I'd gladly hand over $300+ for it.

If there is enough interest and backing then I would gladly volunteer my time towards achieving the goals presented in this thread thus far.
Serial #: 1295, DW660 Router, TinyG controller, Dual Y Motors, ACME Z-Axis - First Cut - 2/19/2013

msg558
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Re: Shapeoko 101

Post by msg558 » Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:25 pm

Good luck on the cutting William! I didn't realize there is a ShapeOko Mk II in the plans.

It's good if people are willing to fiddle to get things to work, but I think the ShapeOko becomes all the more powerful when you don't HAVE to.

Tom Smith
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Re: Shapeoko 101

Post by Tom Smith » Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:01 pm

WillAdams wrote:--- I couldn't source 5mm parts locally to save my life).

William
William - sometimes you have to use stuff that is close enough, for example, 1/4 inch spacers, etc. I was lucky to find Pacific Fasteners in Burnaby (Vancouver) that seems to carry every small metal fastener under the sun, but I think several of the items, particularly with something like this, can fall into the "close enough" category. I still haven't located a flanged bearing locally that I can use to replace my funky cutting board bushing; however, the bushing is working just fine, so I don't really need to :)

I agree that it might be a handy upgrade kit from someplace like Inventables, though...

Glad you like the details I added to the wiki. Hope I didn't forget anything!

Tom
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WillAdams
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Re: Shapeoko 101

Post by WillAdams » Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:00 pm

msg558 wrote:I didn't realize there is a ShapeOko Mk II in the plans.
I don't know if there is or not --- wishful thinking on my part.
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/ Carbide Compact Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Carbide 3D precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

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