How to prepare for Shapeoko 3 - New to CNC

[XStroX]

That's pretty basic CAM functionality, MakerCAM or gcodetools in Inkscape will do that. You should reverse the order.

Makes sense. Save the outline for last so I have something to secure the piece with.

I'll check out MakerCAM and give this a shot.

Stro

[newtothis]

Electrical prep question: I'll be plugging in the SO3 and DWP611 into a power strip that will go into an outlet wired to a 15A breaker.
I know the DWP is 7A and the SO3 will have a 10A power supply. So my rudimentary math says 17A total. Ahem.

Will the SO3 use all 10A of the power supply? It will power both the board and the motors.

Do I need to find a 20A circuit or is there some electrical gymnastics that I don't know about that will allow me to safely and continuously use the outlet wired to the 15A circuit?

Are there any other power draws from a S03 set up that I'm not accounting for here?

[cvoinescu]

That power supply is 10 A output, at 24 V, for a total of 240 W. Ignoring losses and power factors, that translates to 2 A at 120 V (or just over 1 A at 230 V) at the input. Taking losses and a typical (bad) power factor into account, 4 A would still be plenty.

[woodworkerbob]

Will, thanks for the extensive list of programs/software to be used in the CNC process. I guess for me I would be seeking a relative proven path, given I have generated the G-code. Which of the 10 or so controller programs is stable and has the best set of functionality. Of course aimed at the SO3.

Thanks,
Bob

[WillAdams]

Thanks. That was all from the wiki though.

Sending G-code is a simple process --- you can do it w/ a terminal program, I'd much rather the effort was all unified into a single stack of modular programs, but I guess modern computer architecture doesn't support that.

Inkscape and MakerCAM and GRbl Controller work for me, albeit w/ the odd crash (running MC locally helps) and the need to trim files after the fact (yeah, it's supposed to happen automatically, I'd rather just do it up front).

Tl;dr --- currently I'm most familiar w/ and use Grbl Controller (but have since pretty much switched to either Carbide Motion, or bCNC)

[reprobubbles]

I was looking at purchasing some cheap end mills. I'm sure I'm going to break a few before getting the hang of things. I plan on just cutting wood at first. Would the end mills work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Long-1pc- ... 4ae061229a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extra-Long-1pc- ... 3398ff1eae

[WillAdams]

2mm is really narrow and prone to breakage --- why so small? Also, what collet would you be using that'll accept the 6mm shank diameter?

http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Endmills

The best starting point is the default 2-flute, square-ended, straight-cutting (able to center-cut) 1/8" high speed steel (or solid carbide) endmill w/ no coatings.[4] One should move away from that baseline as is dictated by the materials which you are cutting, and the fashion in which you wish to mount them in the work-area, and the quality of cut which you expect. Switching to a spiral up-cut endmill for better chip ejection is an obvious choice (to the detriment of cut quality and increased chipping at the top surface when cutting plywood).

( footnote link is to: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic ... 6846#p6846 )

and at the bottom of the page we have: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/ ... mendations

[veng1]

Anyone know the cheapest US source for a DNP611 (with shipping)?

The $79 price seems to be gone.

[twforeman]

Looks like buying a DWP611 for $120 at Amazon is your current bet.

[veng1]

So far that's the best price I've found too. Please keep your eyes open.

I'm going to wait at least until shipment notification for a better price.