Nervous...

[kerrycorcoran]

Okay, so I have the S3 together...and its been sitting for a few weeks. I ran the Shapeoko Carbide test job (with marker) the day I completed the build and it worked without issue. I want to actually cut something, but first need to figure out how I plan to fasten material to the base. I have been too nervous to move forward as I don't want to ruin anything before I know what I am doing.

I purchased some Tnuts, but unsure how I go about cutting the holes in the baseboard.

Anyone able to help me through this process so I don't ruin the baseboard right off the bat?

Thanks in advance,
Kerry

[WillAdams]

The Wasteboard should probably be considered a consumable item.

The wiki http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/ ... steboard_2 has a link to:

http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6045

Where I went through making a spoil board w/ T-nut fasteners.

There’s also a link to: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic ... 21&p=57423 which shows how to use the two-piece Wasteboard as a templat to make a one piece replacement.

[stephenhouser]

I feel your pain. My first job with a live router had the z zero off and I drilled a nice hole right through the waste board. Fortunately it wasn't near the steel frame. I'm over it now, though I still hate it when I go a little too deep.

Life happens.

[twforeman]

I used to work in a machine shop. Every mill there, CNC and hand crank, had at least one "oops" milled or drilled into the table.

Even the "pros" make mistakes. Sometimes very expensive mistakes.

[Shook]

My first test with the Shapeoko logo and a sharpie put the logo not on the paper, but reversed and on the waste board itself. Broke it right in!

With that said, I still have been hesitant to cut into the waste board. I have threaded inserts and I've seen folks with T-tracks etc. You have to make sure the tool isn't cutting into those.

Because I don't have the need for super-high tolerances for the work I'm doing at this point, I can usually get by with a thin piece of scrap under whatever I'm cutting.

Things that help:
- I sometimes use double-sided tape to hold the work down. That actually lifts it a non-zero height above the waste board.
- I bought the Additive Aerospace limit switch and probe kit. With the probe kit, I get a very precise zero on the Z axis. Combined with a pair of calipers to measure my actual material thickness, I can be sure that the toolpath won't cut into the waste board.

[AnonymousPerson]

As a point to remember, the wasteboard is really just a bit of wood. You can make a replacement one yourself with a bit of effort. (or improve on the original, if you're of a mind to)

[xfredericox]

when everything goes to plan, you are not learning anything. Remember that.

you will ruin jobs, or worse. Many times. Nothing to be worried about beforehand, as it is inevitable.

Just keep personal safety in mind. Always and foremost. All the rest is unimportant if you really think about it. Its only "stuff"

Personally I'd worry more about problems that arise even when you thought you did everything right. These are way harder to troubleshoot & fix than replacing a wasteboard. Just read the forums, there's tons of examples.

[JeromyReno]

My steel frame already has holes threw it and cut marks. I feel like it gives it character.

[twforeman]

I drove an 1/8" end mill through my steel vise jaw at 50 ipm a while ago. I was astonished that it didn't break the endmil. Cut the steel pretty well too.

[AnonymousPerson]

I drove an 1/8" end mill through my steel vise jaw at 50 ipm a while ago. I was astonished that it didn't break the endmil. Cut the steel pretty well too.

Did you note down the settings, so you have a ballpark for when you do want to cut steel?