In the process, I designed a new set of mounting brackets, the files are included – these are different than the others as I am trying to get the unit as close as possible to the gantry because of its weight, and it will take extra effort to drill the two mounting holes [This is an "advanced" mounting bracket to make, explained below]. Also, the DW660 does not have a circular profile – I’ve designed the brackets to follow the cross-sectional profile of the unit. In fact, each bracket is slightly different in size and is composed of four arcs. The bottom bracket has a slightly larger diameter. The files that end with “segments” are the raw segments that can be changed, joined, etc. in CamBam. The ones that you want to mill, end with “unit” and are the joined segments. Also included are the gcode files.
So far I’ve run a long job against HDPE with very good results. I hope to try other materials and see how it goes, particularly curious about aluminum.
Some caveats if you are going DYI:
- The files assume you have a Dremel-equivalent to mill the brackets (the feed rates should be fine for HDPE)
- You must use HDPE or similar flexible plastic, otherwise you won’t be able to open the bracket enough to slide it over the power cord.
- I used 12mm, not 10mm HDPE cutting board. I don’t recommend 10mm.
- You will need to drill two pilot holes 20mm apart from the easy side, then use a forstner bit to a depth of no more than 2mm from the difficult side to allow the hex head to set inside and not hit the unit. This also ensures the screws are able to reach the nuts. The work with the forstner bit is tricky since you have to hold the bracket open with some kind of jig- be careful! – Finish the drilling the hole for the 5mm screws from the easy side. You may be able to fake it with a countersink instead of forstner bit. I put small washers under the hex head screws for better distribution of forces. Or just forget the forstner and modify the “segments” file to give you more room for the hex heads.
- You will also need to drill holes into the clamp portion. If you can, clamp them together with something so they don’t slide so you get perfect hole alignment on both sides.
- Because the bracket hole is not symmetrical X-to-Y, mounting is with the power cord facing to the left or right. This is intentional so that the power cord does not hit the Z-axis mechanism.
The upper clamp got slightly dinged when the bit reached the bottom and the part moved before I could stop the spindle.
The other blue parts are my work-in-progress limit switches using Sharp light sensors from Sparkfun. More on that later.
[EDIT: Added note about mounting orientation with power cord exiting left or right]