RepStrapOko

bobt
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by bobt » Tue Feb 25, 2014 3:02 am

Will - as a suggestion use PLA plastic as it does not require a heated bed. Also it is processed at a lower temp than ABS.

Bob
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WillAdams
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by WillAdams » Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:15 pm

bobt wrote:as a suggestion use PLA plastic as it does not require a heated bed. Also it is processed at a lower temp than ABS.
Thanks!

Still a little puzzled about how to wire things up, and a little annoyed that I didn't understand the need to get Kapton tape --- looks like I need:

- Kapton tape (suggested size? minimum amount?)
- 1.75mm PLA filament

Anything else I'm forgetting?

Any possibility of getting any of this locally? Inventables doesn't stock the Kapton tape, which I was surprised at.
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WillAdams
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by WillAdams » Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:41 pm

Looks like I also need:

- 12 v power supply
- temperature controller

Hmm, maybe all of this could go on an Arduino Shield?
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WillAdams
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by WillAdams » Thu Feb 27, 2014 4:33 pm

Okay, I started a page on this:

http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/RepStrapOko

and linked to it from the MillStrap page on the reprap.org wiki.

and made a post there: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,317007

Ideally I'd like to see some inexpensive kit which would allow one to simply bolt an extruder onto the Spindle Mount Plate (or the Universal Spindle Mounts) and attach a second shield (in-between the existing gShield and Arduino?) which would provide the balance of the necessary electronics --- but maybe that's not possible. I'd be grateful for any assistance anyone could offer.
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MeanderBolt
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by MeanderBolt » Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:37 am

Watching eagerly. This is great.
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WillAdams
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by WillAdams » Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:48 am

Thanks. I was excited about it too, but Catalin has finally managed to pound into my thick head that doing this on the cheap isn't feasible (http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic ... 978#p20977 ), so instead, the best thing to do is to just source a compleat set of the control electronics, so this has to go on hold until more discretionary funds become available.

The sad thing is, it looks like my original idea of just buying a compleat 3D printer kit and using the parts from it might've been the best option.

Anyway, I've sourced everything but the controller and shield and Kapton tape and filament (and a second 12 volt power supply?) and will look forward to finishing this up when I get a chance --- back to milling stuff (just picked up a set of router bits at Sears, including a V-bit and hoping to make a small box out of some 1/4" pine --- the current coupon offer at Michael's is 50% off).
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Nigel K Tolley
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by Nigel K Tolley » Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:32 pm

Personally I use electronics perfboard copper side up for my 3d printer. Only fails if the air temp is below 5 degrees C and a largish print.
You probably want a draft enclosure too.

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Mudshark
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by Mudshark » Thu Mar 06, 2014 5:27 pm

WillAdams, I print in PLA and run extruder at 200C. Could probably drop down to 185C if I was messing around. I just use blue painters tape and if I'm having difficulty with the print sticking, wipe it with alcohol. It'll stick for sure then. I don't use my heated bed for PLA but I have a piece of glass that I print on clipped to the bed. Repetier host is the software I'm using as well as Slic3r which is embeded. I printed the line laser holders and drag chain supports for my Shapeoko out of PLA. Went back to Google Sketch for most of my 3D work.
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WillAdams
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by WillAdams » Sun Apr 27, 2014 8:33 pm

Okay, I've been making progress.

First issue was mounting the Greg's Wade Reloaded Extruder --- it had holes to match MakerSlide (and something else?), but that doesn't suit for an SO2, so drilled 4 more holes to match the Universal Spindle Mounts:

Image

I figure that will allow me to easily switch the machine from milling to printing functionality.

Also wasn't pleased w/ the loose fit of the metal mounting plate/bracket for holding the hot end, so filed a slot into a washer to make up the difference --- probably doesn't matter, but I think better when using my hands, so it paused me sufficiently to force me to think about dismounting the electronics and re-wiring everything else.

Next I need to:

- wire up the hot-end
- unmount the current electronics
- wire up the a new microcontroller --- will the SO2 power supply work or will I need a new one? (perhaps I could just swap w/ the power supply on my SO1? --- it's one of the largish ones --- picture here:

Image

- source some filament
- puzzle out what I'll use for ``thick sheet'' and ``bed material'' --- suggestions for inexpensive options? Blue painter's tape sounds like the hot ticket for the latter and is in my budget.... at one point in time I had some acrylic sheets, not sure what became of them....

Is there anything else I'm forgetting? (I'm hoping to defer a heated bed --- only planning on printing PLA, Lay-WOOd3 and other materials which don't require it)
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WillAdams
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Re: RepStrapOko

Post by WillAdams » Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:24 pm

Looking at how things are mounted, I've realized that the machine is going to be severely limited in its travel along the Z-axis.

One way to address that would be to use the same bolts as are used for mounting a spindle --- I still have the plastic spacers from my SO1, so that will move the extruder out enough that the gantry shouldn't get in the way (for tall, narrow along the Y-axis prints)

I'll also need to re-work the mounting portion of the extruder (and the balance of the extruder?) so that I can reach the bolts w/ a hex key.
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/ Carbide Compact Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Carbide 3D precision collets
Nomad 883 Pro #596 (bamboo)

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