RepStrapOko

[WillAdams]

Okay, I have the Azteeg X5 mini connected to my machine again.

Using Ubuntu since there are no drivers for windows Vista. (Turns out the Windows drivers can be installed in Vista if one follows the by manual instructions).

Followed the instructions here and in the readme to get repetierhost installed: http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/Install ... r+Linux/75

Got permission denied for the port, so used the command sudo chmod a+rw /dev/(device file) from http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=2139246 on /dev/ttyACM0

It connects and tries to move the machine, but just noises thus far --- guess I need to transfer the settings in from the Arduino to the Azteeg.

[WillAdams]

One concern --- what sort of fans should I be connecting? Where / how should they be powered? I'm thinking I need 2:

- one to cool the microcontroller itself --- always on, right?
- one to cool the hot end --- does this also cool the top layer? It should be digitally controlled? What's the ``2.4'' designation mentioned here: http://smoothieware.org/azteeg-x5

Do they both need to be 24volt? Has anyone found a reasonable source for fans (locally available or no)? I'm striking out at Radio Shack, and I'm still annoyed enough by the paucity of connectors at the local electronics shops that I'm not inclined to do any shopping for anything.

[criznach]

Jameco seemed to have a good selection when I built my enclosure. I'm not sure how competitive their prices are on the fans because I ordered a bunch of stuff at once. If you look at the PDF catalog pages you can quickly compare the pricing with the specs, size, etc.

http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c142/P91.pdf

[WillAdams]

Houston, we have a first layer.

Had to make a 160 x 80mm extruder extender plate to get the hot end to reach the glass plate (covered in blue painter's tape), and had to swap in a 5A power supply --- also added a fan to cool the micro controller.

Unfortunately, not getting much past the first layer --- the gantry seems to be settling down slightly as it prints so that it starts rubbing against the plate or the previous layer.

Almost there though. Guess I should try a simpler first print than the mine craft model a co-worker's kid wants.

[WillAdams]

Looks like it was simply a matter of tweaking the power settings and that I'll be able to squeak by w/ a 5 Amp power supply.

[WillAdams]

It seemed to be printing pretty well, until I interrupted the print by trying to move the machine. Some observations:

- 3D printing is much quieter / more pleasant than milling --- highly recommend this as an adjunct if one can make use of it
- the machine shakes / jerks much more than I was expecting --- need to investigate the whole ``infill'' idea --- I was trying to move the machine 'cause I was concerned about how much it was shaking the dining room table
- the spools of filament are rather large and awkward --- had to fashion an impromptu roll holder out of a dowel and some Lego bricks
- 3D printing takes a long time --- need to investigate ways to speed that up

[cvoinescu]

You're right on all counts.

To speed up, by far the most effective method is to get a nozzle with a larger orifice. With that, you can have thicker layers, and the filament goes in much easier so you can push it faster. The downside is that you get poorer resolution, and you may need to upgrade your heater element and/or mess with the automatic temperature rise logic (either in the slicer or in the firmware itself), or your hot end may not be able to keep hot enough while melting all that filament.

Other than that, just the obvious (more current, tight belts, rigid attachment of hot end to carriage, etc). And if you did not need nylon insert nuts or threadlock so far, you may need them now.

[WillAdams]

Thanks.

Posted a config file which should be right now.

Here's the extruder extender plate to allow a Wade's Reloaded Extruder to reach a printing plate:

extruder_extender-svg.txt

(3.42 KiB) Downloaded 495 times

[orangezero]

To speed up, by far the most effective method is to get a nozzle with a larger orifice. With that, you can have thicker layers, and the filament goes in much easier so you can push it faster.

I agree. I had a hotend with 0.3mm opening and had all kinds of trouble. I could print, but not reliably. I bought an official jhead with 1.75mm and 0.5mm opening, and it is quite a bit faster.

For a quick check, you can use cura or some other slicer and keep everything the same but change the nozzle size and calculate both ways. in some cases it can be two or three times faster to have the larger nozzle. It took me a minute to realize it was actually the area of the opening which was changing.

Depending on the print, you can still change the resolution of the layer height, which provides some level of resolution control. Depends a lot on the parts you are making. "Art" might need more resolution, but I'm finding that I hate waiting for a structural part to finish. Don't care what it looks like, just need it done I keep thinking I'll get a new one in 0.35mm or 0.4 sometime, but I'm not really sure why. I'd almost prefer a 0.6mm to make it that much faster.

[Nigel K Tolley]

But a structural part that's out by .5mm due to the giant nozzle will need extra finishing, & you might as well have run it with a smaller nozzle and done something else for the extra hour.