Eventorbot

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BrianH
Posts: 27
Joined: Sat Apr 28, 2012 1:51 am
Location: Raleigh, NC

Eventorbot

Post by BrianH » Wed Oct 10, 2012 7:53 pm

I thinking about getting a 3D printer... Any advice?

I'm very tempted by the full kit Eventorbot on kick starter:
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/187 ... 3d-printer#
but I don't have any experience on what to critique.

With the manufacturing woes of the shapeoko, I'm wondering what might go wrong with the Eventorbot. Like if the top arm of "E" is not perpendicular the bed...is there any way to adjust. etc.

Just wondering what you guys think. electronics. etc.

-Brian

dointhangs
Posts: 179
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:31 pm

Re: Eventorbot

Post by dointhangs » Thu Oct 11, 2012 6:14 am

some of the better pictures are found at the one link on there:
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Eventorbot_1.2
I am at a level it sounds like you are at of just looking at 3d printers from afar but I guess hes pretty convincing in his statements? "With the 1 solid frame, any vibrations of any axis will cause the other axis to move with it. For example: If the X axis causes a slight vibration/1mm movement to the right, the Z and Y axis will also move that 1mm to the right. This will result in a better print as everything will remain squared." Or is that overstated? The prints look pretty darn good.
I was just looking at some of the linear rod stuff on this "igus" site I found. Would it be a problem for cnc stuff in case little bits of cut material get into those seals but for a 3d printer its not quite as messy so should be totally fine?
sorry I am raising way more questions than I am answering but I hadnt seen this one, thanks for link.
It also has me thinking right now how its nice to have a clear judgement from the crowd on this stuff we get in kickstarter but we never get a sense for how crowd wisdom would behave across competing products b/c they are separated in time! (mind blowing I know)
Shapeoko #298, dual drive upgrade, acme z axis, open bed endplates and a slightly larger ("expanded desktop") work area!

jrsteensen
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:29 pm

Re: Eventorbot

Post by jrsteensen » Thu Oct 18, 2012 7:45 pm

I do kinda like it. How much does the kit cost? I can weld up the arms no problem. Be a hell of alot easier than trying to multi task machines...

jluther
Posts: 40
Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2012 6:15 pm

Re: Eventorbot

Post by jluther » Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:06 pm

After looking at the machine it doesn't appear to have a heated printbed so it may only be able to print PLA. It's the same hot glue gun extruder setup that virtually all small machines use. There is still room for play between the printbed and the printhead in the design that could decrease accuracy. However, the smallest bead with these type printers is ~0.3mm so if you have that kind of movement... the short answer is you're doing it wrong. The accuracy is mostly limited by the extrusion bead.

In a 3d printer the only loads should be the material, part weight, and pressing the material through the extruder and into the part. (i.e. don't worry about calculating for anything other than the momentum of your bed and extruder and only worry about those if they are really cruising along.)

It's not inherently better or worse than any other desktop model I've seen in the same price range. However, if ya already have a shapeoko, I'd think it would be cheaper and better to add on $20 of makerslide, and a long Z lead screw to a shapeoko. Turn off all microstepping to speed it up, then for a couple upgrades buy an MBE extruder for $63 and a silicone heated bed for $20 to print ABS (looks better than what eventor seems to use) and go from there. Shouldnt cost more than $150 to add this functionality to a shapeoko and have equivalent or better results.

CAM Software is available open source to print parts same as it is to cut them.

As far as linear slides, 3d printers using cheap extruders don't necessarily have retract functions to stop extruding the bead. The string that pulls out away from the part could pose a bit of a mess if it got into the slides. should peel right off though.

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