My shapeoko 3d printer

[oceax]

My setup
Controller: Printrbot
Extruder: Greg's wade reloaded
Hotend: J-Head Mk IV-B
- Orifice: 0.50 mm (default)
- Filament Size: 3mm
Heatbed: PCB Mk2 heatbed

Software: Pronterface

Did my first print without calibrating, video dosn't show much, but everything worked great except z-axis needs some adjustment.
After some time the printer head crashed a bit into the printed object and i had to abort. But it looks promising.
http://youtu.be/cyXVcPeZyaY

First print, ABS

[AtomSoft]

Where did you get : Greg's wade reloaded

[oceax]

I have bought two, one from ebay (USA) user: jbgeisl and one from http://www.2printbeta.de
The extruder i got from jbgeisl was top quality.



Printing new mounting stuff for dremel


Now i have to write some software so i can use the printrboard for both milling and 3d printing :/

[AtomSoft]

Dude i would be forever in your debt if you write a list of items and everything you did/got to make this happen...

[oceax]

I am new to 3d printing so this is not necessarily the best stuff.

Printrboard Electronics Rev C - http://www.makerfarm.com/catalog/i12.html
- Compact, very easy to use but has only support for 1 extruder. I will probably buy some other electronics like ramps in the future because of this.
There is a link to software and guide for using the software there. (marlin firmware)

Heatbed PCB Mk2 with thermistor and leds - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 184wt_1396
You also need 3mm glass sheet ontop... i got one from a friend.

Hotend: J-Head Mk IV-B - http://www.hotends.com/
- Orifice: 0.50 mm (default)
- Filament Size: 3mm
Also get: Heater Resistor (5.6 ohm) and thermistor.

There is a new hotend now, J-Head Mk V-B that i have ordered.
And this time i ordered with Orifice 0.35 mm. 0.5 seems to be a bit clumsy with fine details like tooth's on a pulley.
But i guess 0.5 is better when printing large objects. And also they are not exactly 0.35 or 0.5 apparently according to the manufacturers blog.
They are a bit smaller so you have to set that in a config file nozzle orifice 0.5 mm is aprox 0.475 mm - http://jheadnozzle.blogspot.se/

Greg's wade reloaded, i got the unassembled + bolt/screw set from http://www.2printbeta.de and it works great.

Stepper motors, you need 4. I got 0.9 deg (400 steps/rotation) you already got 3 for shapeoko but you should get stepper with extra torque for extruder.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370611942952?ss ... 584wt_1171

You also need lots of good wires (heatbed dual 10A wire + thermistor, hotend thermistor + heater) and some way to connect them to the board. I just soldered them to the board (very ugly).
You should get kapton tape - ebay (heat resistant and used to hold stuff in place)

Also, you can't just solder the wires to the hotend heater. The tin just melt so get clamps to connect them.

[AtomSoft]

Thanks a ton! I need too save some money now

[oceax]

After more calibration i have much better prints

Mounting plate for 30mm fan blowing on hotend heatsink and object being printed


Propeller + cover for engine


Very nice density


Mounting for two extruders and one spindle/dremel

[SnapFracturePop]

If you have any luck with making the printrboard work for extruders and routers, I'd be very interested. I just got one myself & am waiting on the extruder.

[AtomSoft]

Not sure if this helps:

http://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=564

Which also means... (if it works) my AtomCNC can be used for 3D printing

(Other firmwares are currently untested but any firmware for an arduino mega should work with proper pin setup.)

AtomCNC v2 (AtomCNCn3D) will work also

[oceax]

I have not tried to make the printrboard mill yet for the reason in atomsofts link and i have a grblShield with 2.5A drivers (printrboard is 2A)
But replacing the software on the printrboard takes 30sec so switching between grbl and marlin that way is not too painfull.

And i will change my shapeoko so that i have a long y-axis and three x/z-axis for pick n place, milling, and 3d printring with three extruders.
3D printing can take time, so i want extra axis to be able to mill at the same time.