Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

cvoinescu
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by cvoinescu » Wed Feb 18, 2015 6:04 pm

I second the recommendation for a Greg's Wade Reloaded. Not the most elegant, but it's very reliable.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

phinsil6
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by phinsil6 » Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:16 pm

Thanks for the source of the gregs reloaded. I will look more into that.

I'm sure that I'll have to whip up some kind of adapter plate to get the extruder mounted to spindle plate.

Gadgetman!
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by Gadgetman! » Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:21 pm

A RAMPS 1.4 board can handle up to 35V...

You just need to remove a 1N4004 diode if it's there, or you'll fry the Arduino...

http://www.sainsmart.com/wiki/index.php ... ut_Voltage

;-)
Weird guy...
Shapeoko 2014F: 1000mm X/Y, 300W Quiet Cut spindle, Arduino Uno/G-shield and GRBL 0.9i
15x30 drag chains, custom spindle mount, 9mm belts, 8mm endplates, 6mm motor plates.

madmike88
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by madmike88 » Thu Feb 19, 2015 2:08 am

I have a Ord-bot so I don't have a printer setup on my Shapeoko, but I've been using a 2560Mega/Ramps/Marlin combo for a couple years now. I agree direct drive would be best so you can disconnect the setup at one time. I've used a wades when I used 3mm and it works well. I prefer 1.75 now. If you print with PLA you can get by without the heatbed, but if you do ABS your going to need one.

Just thinking here, but if you could make a couple plates that could easily be bolted to the spindle plate you could have your spindle on one and printer on the other. Make some type of common wiring connector setup that could be easily adapted for use with both the GBRL shield and the RAMPS would be nice too.

phinsil6
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by phinsil6 » Thu Feb 19, 2015 3:41 pm

A RAMPS 1.4 board can handle up to 35V...

You just need to remove a 1N4004 diode if it's there, or you'll fry the Arduino...
Thanks but when I realized how simple the board really is whipped up a design in eagle and broke out the functions to different boards. Unfortunately I'm an EE that likes to tinker so with the electronics side of the business I have an obsession with doing it myself :)
I have a Ord-bot so I don't have a printer setup on my Shapeoko, but I've been using a 2560Mega/Ramps/Marlin combo for a couple years now. I agree direct drive would be best so you can disconnect the setup at one time. I've used a wades when I used 3mm and it works well. I prefer 1.75 now. If you print with PLA you can get by without the heatbed, but if you do ABS your going to need one.

Just thinking here, but if you could make a couple plates that could easily be bolted to the spindle plate you could have your spindle on one and printer on the other. Make some type of common wiring connector setup that could be easily adapted for use with both the GBRL shield and the RAMPS would be nice too.
what kind of heated bed do you have?
I was thinking the same thing about the common wiring. I was just going to have all the stepper signals and endstops in one plug that can be plugged into the mach3 (CNC) setup or Arduino (Marlin 3D Printer) setup.
Good idea with the spindle plate, I could just buy another spindle plate and 4 v wheel assemblies and just bolt/unbolt to the delrin nut that stays in place. Good idea.

cvoinescu
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by cvoinescu » Thu Feb 19, 2015 4:13 pm

For some of us, for some reason, making our own boards seems the easiest and sanest choice. (Not sure how our brains get that way, but not much we can do.)

If you use the Pololu DRV8825 drivers, you don't need to wire their VDD, because it's actually the #FAULT output, not a supply pin. Check out the Pololu page on them. The only component you really need is an electrolytic capacitor (regular, not low ESR) to decouple VMOT (47 uF 35 V).
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

phinsil6
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by phinsil6 » Thu Feb 19, 2015 4:49 pm

If you use the Pololu DRV8825 drivers, you don't need to wire their VDD, because it's actually the #FAULT output, not a supply pin. Check out the Pololu page on them. The only component you really need is an electrolytic capacitor (regular, not low ESR) to decouple VMOT (47 uF 35 V).
How does the board have logic power then? Attached is my circuit as it is now (for one motor)
Attachments
DRV8825_circuit.PNG
DRV8825_circuit.PNG (13.64 KiB) Viewed 2426 times

cvoinescu
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by cvoinescu » Thu Feb 19, 2015 5:43 pm

The DRV8825 has its own internal logic power supply.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

phinsil6
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by phinsil6 » Thu Feb 19, 2015 5:51 pm

yeah i just saw that on their page. pretty snazzy.

on the capacitors...would one cap on the power when it enters the board be enough or do i really need one cap right next to vmot for each driver carrrier?

cvoinescu
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Re: Shapeoko <--> 3D Printer

Post by cvoinescu » Thu Feb 19, 2015 6:17 pm

One should be enough if the drivers are reasonably close to each other. Make that 100..220 uF, though.
Proud owner of ShapeOko #709, eShapeOko #0, and of store.amberspyglass.co.uk

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