milling bits vs. router bits?

Discussion about Tooling and Fixtures. End Mills, Router Bits, Hold Downs, Fixtures, Etc.
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milling bits vs. router bits?

Post by dave_the_nerd » Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:31 am

So, since I have a DW660 now, I've been experimenting with a 1/4" 2-flute straight router bit (which I had on hand) instead of purchasing a "proper" endmill.

It's great, from the standpoint of removing a lot of material, but working in oak, I got a bit of scorching, and am wondering if this is something that's just to be expected from router bits, if a "real" endmill would alleviate that, or if I should be cooling/lubricating the endmill somehow when working with hardwood?

I have my eye on this endmill, since I have a couple of 1/8" shank endmills from them and am happy with the performance.
Shapeoko 2 # 6651: 500x1000mm, Acme screw and belt drive Z-axis, DW660 w/ IC mount, Arduino/grblShield w/ gCode 0.9g and 3D-printed electronics enclosure.

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Re: milling bits vs. router bits?

Post by LTEPM » Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:50 am

If you get burning in hardwood typically your spindle speed is too high or feed rate is too slow. (Speaking from using a router)

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Re: milling bits vs. router bits?

Post by WillAdams » Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:51 am

While a "real" endmill would probably help, slowing down the r.p.m.s and/or increasing the feed or reducing runout will help more.

Please see: ... =30#p26665 for one take on the latter.

Also: esp. ... iple_Flute
Shapeoko 3XL #0006 w/ Carbide Compact Router w/0.125″ and ¼″ Carbide 3D precision collets

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Re: milling bits vs. router bits?

Post by mydarndest » Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:51 am

LTEPM wrote:If you get burning in hardwood typically your spindle speed is too high or feed rate is too slow. (Speaking from using a router)
I agree. Too fast motor speed/too slow feed, your going to burn.
Another thing to note is the burning/scorching is caused by the saw dust (powder).
Not always the bit against the wood. You got to get the dust out of the way.
Upcut bits work best for me.
Downcut bits for shallow cuts. If I go to deep .5inch there is too much heat, dust can't get out and it burns/smokes/ruins the bit.
Compression bits - They end up burned up like the downcut bits. I feel like I'm wasting money on these.

Variables are always changing with material and sharpness/dullness of bits.
I am believing I'll be battling this ... forever.
Finding the right feed/speed for materials is a constant research project.

My best cuts are:
Depth of Pass: .05inch to around .0313inch
30 Inches Per minute
This shaves off the material and gets it out of the way for it to be sucked up by my dust shoe/vac.

I dream of the day I can hog out .25 inch depth at 30 inch/min on my SO. :lol:

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Re: milling bits vs. router bits?

Post by woodworkerbob » Thu Mar 19, 2015 11:07 pm

Slightly off topic, but important for end mills.

I have two precision collets, 1/8 and 1/4". I made the mistake of ordering only 1 nut. For these precision collets, the collets snap/wedge into the nut used to tightening. It's a pain to move that nut back and forth between the collets. Now I have to pay for shipping for just one nut.

Just a little hint.

Bob, Future SO3 owner
Shapeoko 3 - #13, dust deputy, precision collets, limit switches.

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Re: milling bits vs. router bits?

Post by Woodworker » Fri Mar 20, 2015 12:30 am

Been there and did that also. Trying now to convince myself to just order the 2nd nut and save a lot of time.
BRuce - SO2 #4798 - IC's Z axis upgrade, customized Z rail and Z motor mount, spindle Dewalt 611

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