Shapeoko 3 - Assembly Instructions (preliminary)

[BennettBenson]

Page 28 ends with " Then affix the "

[BennettBenson]

The pic on 28 again shows washers and both pages 28 and 29 reference Nylock nuts. I expect to replace my regular nuts with Nylock in the near future but, again, my kit came with regular nuts. I'm not complaining here, just pointing out any assembly anomalies I am seeing.

Bennett

[BennettBenson]

I finally got to page 31. After I checked the dip switches, I went to screw the controller to the gantry. This is the point where I realized there were no screw holes to mount the board. Alright, I screwed up. I put the extrusion with the 2 screw holes onto the right side of the base. So, two things. Please clarify this better for others in the future. Second, is there anything different between the extrusions or can I just drill and tap the gantry extrusion? Or is there an alternative mounting method? Would double sided tape work?

Bennett

[WillAdams]

You don't want an insulator in between the heat sink under the board and the extrusion which then absorbs and radiates away the heat from the heat sink.

There's nothing special about the X-axis extrusion other than it being tapped --- unless there's a slight difference in-between the pair of Ys and the X for length --- I'd still disassemble the machine and swap the parts around. Lost track of how many times I did that sort of thing w/ my Shapeoko 1.

[cvoinescu]

From what Edward says about his packing process, there's no selection of equal pairs; all three extrusions are the same.

The heatsink is already quite large -- I would not worry about the double-sided tape being a thermal insulator. Direct contact is better, sure, but I doubt it'll make a difference in practice.

[Athaidesign]

Anyone else have a fitment issue with the m5 eccentric nut on page 9? It will still function, but to my understanding eccentric nuts are suppose to drop into a hole and spin around as a guide, the hole on my plate is slightly undersized.

[WillAdams]

Not specifically, but yes, in general.

http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Parts#Structure

The steel plates are laser cut and powder coated for the SO2 and SO3. Tolerance for the laser is (roughly) +/- .02mm - .10mm. The thickness of the powder coat is .08mm to .127mm. If the laser errs on the minus side and the powder coating is on the thicker side, it may be necessary to remove the powder coating with a file, sandpaper or other tool.[8]

[AnonymousPerson]

Anyone else have a fitment issue with the m5 eccentric nut on page 9? It will still function, but to my understanding eccentric nuts are suppose to drop into a hole and spin around as a guide, the hole on my plate is slightly undersized.

I think you're the first one reporting that (so far). If it's a problem in a recent batch, more reports are likely to show up over the next few days.

Have you tried emailing the support@carbide3d.com yet?

[WillAdams]

A new version of the assembly instructions has been posted to shapeoko.com

Posted my observations on it here: http://community.carbide3d.com/t/the-ca ... done/726/2

[TMcG]

Page 14 has an error, the top RH diagram is correct for the spacer being 3/8 x 5/16 but the main body text identifies the spacer as 5/8