Stiffness of the spindle carriage plate

[Neppo1345]

I'll let them know; I checked the numbers, and the thicknesses I listed above are correct. I'm going to guess someone either pulled from the wrong stack of washers , or the ridge inside the v-wheels is supposed to be thicker to match up with the shims...either way there was axial play in the stack-up. It really shouldn't be too hard to match these measurements up to within a couple thousandths.

So here's how I drilled my holes through the backplate and transferred them into the aluminum supports.

First off, I re-installed my spindle mount onto the carriage plate, and using a dial caliper did my best to get it centered.

Then I installed the two aluminum Z axis supports, and measuring from the outside of the carriage plate to the outside of the aluminum support (using the step measurement ability) I made sure the measurement at the top was equal to the measurement at the bottom.




I took that measurement (0.398-0.399), added half of the aluminum plate thickness to it (to give me the centerline),dashed some layout fluid on the backside of the plate, and scribed the centerline onto the plate (~0.520 for 1/4 inch plate). After the centerline was scribed, I marked out the hole centers and center-punched them.



Over to the drill press, opening the holes to a clearance size (9/64) for the #6 screws I would be using.



Then I put some layout fluid onto the mating face of the aluminum supports, and scribed the centerline down the middle of the face (this would let me spot the centerline through the holes to make sure everything was lined up.

I re-installed the spindle mount, and clamped up the aluminum plates to the side, made sure the centerlines lined up, and marked the vertical center of the holes with a scribe.



Took everything apart, center punched the holes, clamped everything up in the vise, and drilled out the holes to the tap size for a #6 screw.



And boom...hardest part out of the way.



Then tap, and make sure the screws all fit before running the countersink cutter down into the holes (which is easy compared to everything you just did).



Let me know if there are any more questions....I'm happy to help. Still hoping to get a full writeup done this weekend along with some tweaks to the models. Just very busy.

[twforeman]

I just discovered that I also have the issue with the washers being the wrong thickness. I was squaring up my machine and the Z was off, so I pushed and pulled it a bit and got the same popping as the bearings moved back and forth in the wheels.

Guess my build is halted now while I contact support.

[Neppo1345]

I just discovered that I also have the issue with the washers being the wrong thickness. I was squaring up my machine and the Z was off, so I pushed and pulled it a bit and got the same popping as the bearings moved back and forth in the wheels.

Guess my build is halted now while I contact support.

You could always stop at the hardware store and see if they have thinner M5 washers?

If you don't have a dial caliper you can pick one up cheap at good 'ol harbor freight digital caliper for ~$15.00. They're a good to have in general; you'll find 100 reasons to use it.

[twforeman]

You could always stop at the hardware store and see if they have thinner M5 washers?

If you don't have a dial caliper you can pick one up cheap at good 'ol harbor freight digital caliper for ~$15.00. They're a good to have in general; you'll find 100 reasons to use it.

I have all the measuring tools I need, and then some.

I'm interested to hear what Carbide 3D support says about the issue. I may indeed decide it's easier and more expedient to just buy some new washers. I'll probably take some of the v-wheels apart this afternoon and see if they are all the same and the washers are just wrong or if there is a tolerance issue in the wheel manufacturing.

[twforeman]

I started a new topic about the V-Wheel issues: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=7567

[wunderaa]

Completed mine today. Unit is solid. However, stiffness in the Y-direction is still poor. Next up is working on the v-wheels I think. Video milling some hickory at 200ipm listed below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqmbxK6wuHU

[apspurgeon]

I too stiffend my Z Plate, I still have movement. v-wheels tight as a drum.
Turns out 90% of the movement was the plastic v-wheel moving on the bottom 2 bearings. These guys take the strain and the seem to have deformed/stretched.

Have a look at the video

http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=7572

[Neppo1345]

Completed mine today. Unit is solid. However, stiffness in the Y-direction is still poor. Next up is working on the v-wheels I think. Video milling some hickory at 200ipm listed below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqmbxK6wuHU

Looks awesome! I like the way you continued your plates down to the bottom of the carriage. Makes it look so clean.

[wunderaa]

Looks awesome! I like the way you continued your plates down to the bottom of the carriage. Makes it look so clean.

thanks! Full credit to HDVideo though. I just ran with his beautiful drawing!

[jkanzaki]

has anyone consider using metal v wheel to replace the current SO3 delrin v wheel ?