I remember reading somewhere that people were having luck doing DIY thru-hole plating, painting the holes with conductive ink first.scott216 wrote:I was getting ready to solder it and it struck me I didn't take into account the holes are not plated through Most of the holes are for headers and I can't solder those pads if they are on the top layer. Previous to this all my double sided boards were sent out to be made so the holes were plated through. I won't make that mistake again.
To get good results you need pretty low spindle run-out. I found on my Dewalt DW660 that the collet runout varied a lot from one collet to another.
I read a tip somewhere that flatbed scanners do a good jog for "taking pictures" of PCB boards, that how I got the pictures I posted.
Shapeoko 3 #192 - Complete! Needs limit switches.
I discovered something called PCB rivets and have been using these. I'm using them as a via, not as a "plated hole" that a part goes in. You can also put a part through it, but only if the parts wire has a pretty small diameter (at least for the size rivets I have). I got mine on ebay:CastIrony wrote: I remember reading somewhere that people were having luck doing DIY thru-hole plating, painting the holes with conductive ink first.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... t&_sacat=0
If you're using Cadsoft Eagle to design your boards, then I'd recommend using pcb-gcode to create the gcode. It's a ULP script that works right withing Eagle and works very well.roontoon wrote:Nice board. I am going to attempt my first double sided board and I found FlatCAM very useful in creating the G-code. It has options for double sided boards.