Good deal on a 3D Printer

Talk about all things CNC
Harasi
Posts: 49
Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2014 6:48 am

Re: Good deal on a 3D Printer

Post by Harasi » Thu Apr 16, 2015 6:56 am

halfnormal wrote:Here ya go!
Thanks!
Shapeoko 2 full kit # unknown .. Makita compact router .. ACME Z axis upgrade kit

reganissu
Posts: 24
Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 12:18 pm

Re: Good deal on a 3D Printer

Post by reganissu » Thu Apr 16, 2015 3:10 pm

twforeman wrote: Great news! So I guess I'll stay away from the bleeding edge development branch then. :)
I can't recall why i've gone that way :roll:

Now the fun have begun, prints are pretty good (flat top surface on the cube test print) with very little tuning, excluding extruder pid tuning and putting a little higher extruder temps for pla (190 celsius). I guess a lot of the benefit is in the custom configuration.h, so thanks a lot!
Still I need some tuning to get proper prints and I think i'll go trough triffid hunter's calibration guide on reprap wiki http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%2 ... tion_Guide

an overview on my setup below

Image
Shapeoko 2 with 1000mm xrail, makita router
Prusa I3, 3D printer

Harasi
Posts: 49
Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2014 6:48 am

Re: Good deal on a 3D Printer

Post by Harasi » Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:13 pm

So I have updated the firmware and used the configuration.h posted by twforeman but am having some problem the Z axis and Y axis does not stop even when it hits the endstop .. any idea whats wrong? can't figure it out and am very new to 3d printers
Shapeoko 2 full kit # unknown .. Makita compact router .. ACME Z axis upgrade kit

twforeman
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Good deal on a 3D Printer

Post by twforeman » Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:04 pm

Does the light on the endstop turn on when you press the switch?

It sounds like you may not have the endstop plugged into the right place.
Ender 3 3D Printer
ShapeOko v3 serial #0004 - upgrade thread
All of my ShapeOko related blog posts

Harasi
Posts: 49
Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2014 6:48 am

Re: Good deal on a 3D Printer

Post by Harasi » Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:14 pm

twforeman wrote:Does the light on the endstop turn on when you press the switch?

It sounds like you may not have the endstop plugged into the right place.
Thanks for pointing this I rechecked for the 3rd time & you are right .. I plugged them in wrong ports :oops: it took me over an hour with this wiring mess :?
Shapeoko 2 full kit # unknown .. Makita compact router .. ACME Z axis upgrade kit

madhatter
Posts: 164
Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2015 1:33 am
Location: WA, USA

Re: Good deal on a 3D Printer

Post by madhatter » Mon Aug 29, 2016 9:28 pm

twforeman wrote:Since I don't seem to have enough projects in my life yet I decided I needed a 3D printer. :roll:

I found a place in China selling a Prusa i3 clone for $360 shipped.

https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/d ... usa-i3-kit

Now I need to come up with a 3D scanner system and I'll be ready to take over the world! :)

Is anybody using the Autodesk 1-2-3Catch process yet?
I bought that printer after seeing this thread, and other than having to zero it manually before each print I have had no issues with it. I did upgrade to a glass bed and PC board heater element, but that is it, and it has worked just fine. I did however just order the newest Prusa that has the automatic bed leveling so I don't have to do it anymore. (I know. . .I know. . .First world 3D printer problems. :-) )
SO3 #0054
DWP611 - SuperPID
Prusa i3 MkII
SolidWorks 2015

halfnormal
Posts: 227
Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2013 6:44 am
Location: Flagstaff AZ

Re: Good deal on a 3D Printer

Post by halfnormal » Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:54 pm

madhatter wrote: I did however just order the newest Prusa...
You have to let me know how you like it. Still love my Sunhokey but the new Prusa looks great and also has raving reviews.

chamnit
Posts: 376
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 2:16 pm
Location: Albuquerque NM, USA
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Re: Good deal on a 3D Printer

Post by chamnit » Tue Aug 30, 2016 2:45 pm

I've had a week with the new Prusa i3 Mk2. In short, it's pretty awesome and very capable. But, it's not without its warts. I discovered that the 9-point bed leveling and the 'silent'/'high power' stepper modes were out of necessity, rather than a new feature.

The bed leveling is to correct for the curvature in their FR4 composite bed. It's not guaranteed to be flat by nature. However, it does enable them to do really cool things like sense XY skewing, zone and even bed heating, and heat very quickly.

The stepper modes are there to reduce vibrations in the machine. I get crazy amount of vibrations from the machine when running, especially the y-axis at certain speeds. At least an amount I'm not used to. It still prints great, but could be improved a bit by getting rid of it. I've also observed this issue in other YouTube Mk2 videos and even asked Josef Prusa about it. He just said thanks for buying the machine and ignored the question.

So, I've been trying to diagnose where all these vibrations are coming from and think I have a decent idea now. It's basically from the M8 and M10 threaded rods they use to make up the base structure. It's woefully undersized, structurally. After doing some hand calculations, these rods have a natural frequency (vibration mode) right around the step rate. This means it'll resonate with stepping. This ends up traveling all through the machine and into the bed, where I get a lot of rattling. The 'silent' stepper mode is there just to keep the vibrations down.

That said, this is pretty much a fundamental design flaw in all Prusa i3's in general. While there are lots of "stiffening" hacks, none of these don't really address the fundamental problem. They only mask it by damping or isolating the source issue. I'm going to try to make some 3/4"-1" OD aluminum spacers to go around and tighten over the threaded rods. This should increase the double vibration frequency and at least halve their magnitudes. If I'm right, I'll post it somewhere on Josef's forum or elsewhere prominent.

Anyhow, don't get me wrong here. This printer is awesome for the money and supports a very talented group that is pushing the boundaries of what's possible. I would still highly recommend getting a Prusa i3 Mk2. Even with the rattling, it still prints almost as well as our Lulzbot Taz5/6's at my lab for 1/3rd the cost. Can't wait to run some Nylon through the machine.

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